01-18-2013, 04:07 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
My Ride: '06 330CiC, '03 M5
| Careful before you get ahead of yourself on these issues.
Once you get tools in your hands that can read codes and data, you have to stop and think EVERYTHING through!
SAP actually is there to both warm Catalytic converters quickly but also to help warm O2 sensor and to allow sensor to toggle to full Lean before going into closed loop, which actually takes less time than you may think with SAP and heated O2 sensors.
Here is a BIG suggestion. Do not worry about fuel economy yet. Let this work its way out while you sort all your other problems.
Also sort your problems 1 at a time. This will allow you to check off things each step of the way.
Not sure your mileage or history on the car. The biggest things that impact mileage are: Pre-cat O2 sensors, spark plugs and secondary ignition MAF, thermostat, DISA, VANOS. VANOS is more than the VANOS seals, this could be Camshaft position sensors, VANOS solenoids and other items.
Here are some suggestions.
1. See the 3rd link in my signature, run a cluster test for your dash and make sure your CEL and other indicators are working. Many times when people cannot get the CEL out, the put take over the CEL behind the cluster face or worse, they get out the wirecutters or epoxy!!
2. Using the 3rd link in my signature and/or some of your software tools verify your engine cooling temp. Your engine should get up to 90-95C in under 10 minutes even in cold temps. The engine should stay at or above about 90C unless you are running the engine over 3k RPM when the electrical heating element starts to reduce the engine temp. See this link - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491
3. Try to get your SAP sorted, used pump would be what I would suggest of now.
4. If you Pre-cat O2 sensors are OLD, suggest replacing them new Bosch units. Replace them in pairs, I get mine on Amazon for about $50 each. These are consumable and do not last for ever. The worse the engine runs, the shorter time they last.
5. Make sure someone has not swapped the O2 sensor wiring wither up top or down below. This is pretty easy to do. The simple way to figure this out is disconnect any 1 O2 sensor wire and see what code is triggered and what bank the code is for. This way you can verify the proper O2 sensor is connected. Once you know the O2 sensors are for the correct bank, suggest you label them to help with future maintenance and troubleshooting.
6. If you have not checked your intake air path, intake boots, DISA and CCV, suggest you do this and also read the first link below in my signature.
7. BE CAREFUL about nomenclature on some of the tools. I believe the PA Soft deviation Rich actually means the engine is running lean and has deviated to enrich the mixture the maximum it can and has hit a wall on the adjustment. Suggest you use your Torque Pro App and compare readings and see what Torque Pro is finding.
8. Try to use Torque Pro to graph your O2 sensor performance on cold start once you have the SAP operational. This is kind of important as you can compare your car to some baseline good cars. O2 sensors should read about 0.45 Volts when cold and inactive and should then toggle between 0.1-0.9 Volts pretty rapidly. See this post here - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=954362
9. Note there are some cheap/counterfeit MAF's on the market that use thermistors rather than hot film sensor and they usually under report the airflow even at idle an cause lean problems.
10. If you are getting freeze frame codes, please capture the info and post it as well.
Try to provide updates with what you have found correct and/or repaired and advise what is still outstanding.
Also try to list at some point what new parts have been installed on the car so we can all figure out what parts have been updated. Also please note that not all new parts work correctly, so hold on to the originals until you have your problems fully solved.
Good luck and keep at it, you will get the issues resolved.