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Old 01-26-2013, 02:39 PM   #629
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sunnyvale, CA <-- Ithaca, NY <-- dirty jerz (201) Useful Posts: 25
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My Ride: E46 332i,M3;E30 325i
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Originally Posted by E46Mango View Post
If it's your car, I'd probably pull the boots (zip ties) just to be sure theres lock plates. (Just my opinion)

And AFAIK, both early and later tierods both have a similar design so both need to be "torqued" regardless. I could be wrong though. What's the specific difference?
Not mine, but that doesn't make a difference. It's a remanufactured assembly and was assembled for a specE30 car, so I have some faith in the components.

Don't get me wrong - you should torque the older style tie rods, too. It's just harder to apply a lot of torque without damaging them. The ends where they screw into the rack, i.e. where you put a wrench, are shaped differently. E30s, e.g., have a 75 Nm torque spec and E46 M3s require 110 Nm. I would feel safer with lock plates regardless, but BMW decided they weren't necessary.

Originally Posted by VALMONT View Post
Mr. Maintenance is taking on Dr. Frankenbimmer

Originally Posted by crazyxzer0 View Post
Damn Z3 non-m steering rack. That must be short as hell compared to the M3 one.
Yeah, no kidding, lol.
(klx photo studio)

M3 drive train conversion (S54 Swap, LSD, 6MT, suspension linkage) | UUC Stg 2 Organic Clutch | OEM M-Tech II Kit
KW V2 | BBS GT4 RE | Falken FK452 | Alcon 6-pot 365mm BBK | M3 steering wheel | Powerflex bushings

Originally Posted by koven View Post
i'd rather be gapless with no bulge
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