View Single Post
Old 02-18-2013, 06:20 PM   #9
slowrunningE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 33
My Ride: 01 330i
Key fob and no heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottjoh View Post
If power is removed from the key fob circuit for a short enough period of time the capacitors can keep the rolling code position alive so that resyncing is not necessary, but, that is not always the case and resyncing will be necessary to get back the remote functions.

I'll quote from the battery data sheet, "Approx., 1000 times at 10% discharge depth to nominal capacity." Since under normal conditions the battery is never discharged anywhere near that deep they will last much much longer. 10+ years is not a problem. I repair a lot of keys and I only have to replace the original battery when the customer has f'd it all up following that idiot on YouTube that says to break the leadframe off the battery at the weld points.... If the battery hasn't been dicked with I just repair the key, close it up and send it back with the original battery. The original battery always measures between 3.1 and 3.3 Volts and brand new batteries measure only 3.0 Volts since they don't come from the factory fully charged.
Update: Ok, leaving the battery unplugged fixed the dash light and my key now works. I guess it just needed to be charged. Now as for the heat, the heat is warm only when driving and I noticed that the inside windshield gets fogged when i'm driving and when the car is off. Could be because its cold outside. Feels like my AC isn't working like it should, would that effect the no heat issue? But I dont smell any coolant or leaks on the floor. I dont know what else it could be. I can start changing piece by piece until its fixed or just replace the heater core and hope that is the problem. I'm moving to Dallas next week and really dont need heat in a month, but I would like to get it fixed.
slowrunningE46 is offline   Reply With Quote