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Old 07-12-2005, 11:10 AM   #42
Detailed Image
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 688
My Ride: Audi S4
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Well its tough to say if those scratches are on the surface and clear or thru to the paint with the pictures shown. Again, I'm going to suggest our summer deal with the Poorboy's SSR 2.5 + SSR 1. It will be more aggressive than the Scratch-X you tried and will work well by hand or by buffer.

Taken from Better Car Care by David Bynon

Touching up small nicks and scratches is well within the skill level of most do-it-yourself car enthusiasts. Some nicks can be quickly repaired with a small dab of touch-up paint, while others will require more time, effort and skill. Itís important to know what you should and shouldnít tackle based on your knowledge of paint and tools.

By far the easiest colors to repair are black and white. Black and white are very forgiving on shade variations. Conversely, metallic paints (those with metal flakes) can be quite difficult to match perfectly.

This is a medium scratch. You will be able to feel it with your fingernail, but it does not go through to the primer. The best way to fix this king of scratch is to round down the edges using a medium grit rubbing compound and bring back full gloss with a good polish.

Before you get started repairing nicks and scratches, you should know what to expect. Small nicks are easy to repair by filling the nick with paint, leveling the filled area, and buffing the repair area to blend and restore luster. Repairing small scratches, from a key or shopping cart, is similar, but more time consuming. Fixing a ding (a small dent which may or may not have a nick out of the paint) is not commonly possible by the do-it-yourselfer.

Deep scratches and chips that go through the color coat into the primer or down to the metal can only be repaired using touch-up paint.

Here are some other things you should know:

If you know your carís factory paint code, you can purchase an exact color match touch-up paint from your local dealer. If you donít know the factory paint code, look in your ownerís manual for the location of the code, or ask your dealer. If you have a late model car, chances are you will find a color match at your local auto parts store.

Use a small artistís paint brush (#2 is ideal) or a round, wooden toothpick to apply the touch-up paint, not the fat brush included with the bottle of touch-up paint.

Always test the touch-up paint for color match in an inconspicuous area.

The area to be repaired must be perfectly clean and free of wax, rust and oils.

Donít attempt a touch-up if the temperature is below 60 degrees F.

Hereís what you need to properly repair nicks and scratches:

Color matched touch-up paint

Automotive or metal primer

Citric acid based cleaner like P21S Total Auto Wash

Prep solvent (Prepsol) or denatured alcohol

Foam swabs (from electronics supply) or pop swabs containing alcohol

Meguiarís Unigrit Sanding Block and 1200 grit wet & dry sand paper

3M medium grit hand rubbing compound

#2 Artistís paint brush and round toothpicks (wood)

Cotton terrycloth towels

New pencils with unused erasers

Rubber cement

Plastic cups

Blue masking tape (easy release type)

Large diameter paper hole punch (hand type)

Before applying paint, you must prepare the chip to accept paint. Although paint may adhere for a while to a chip with rust, dirt or oil, eventually the repair will fail. The preparation process begins the day before you repair the paint chips and scratches.

The afternoon before starting your chip repairs, wash your car. After washing with your normal car wash, spray the areas you plan to repair with P21S Total Auto Wash, allow to sit for a minute, then scrub well with your sponge. P21S Total Auto Wash will remove all wax and oil from your paint. Dry your car thoroughly and put it away for the night.

After washing your car, make up several sanding pencils. Use a hole punch to punch out a few dots from the 1200 grit wet and dry paper. Apply the sandpaper dots to the end of your pencil eraser with rubber cement. Allow them to dry over night. You will use the sanding pencils to scuff-up and clean out nicks.

To make a chip ready for touch-up paint, you must make sure it does not have loose edges, clean it, and sand it. I use a toothpick to check the edges of a chip. If loose or lifted, I use the toothpick to knock off the loose paint. To clean, I like to use denatured alcohol or Prepsol and a foam swab. I pour a little bit into a plastic cup and use a foam swab to clean the chip and surrounding area.

Next, I use a sanding pencil to clean out the chip and rough-up the edges. Simply dip the sanding pencil into a cup of clean water, dab a few drops of water on the chip, and gently rotate the sanding pencil over the chip. Keep the area you sand as small as possible. Rotating the sanding pencil back and forth in your fingers 8-10 times should be enough to do the job. If the chip has exposed bare metal, or if you can see rust forming, use the edge of the pencil erasure to remove the rust. When you finish sanding the chip, dry it with a terrycloth towel and clean it again with Prepsol and a foam swab.

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