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Old 08-26-2006, 12:17 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,015
My Ride: 88' BMW E30 SETA
Send a message via AIM to Ivegotissues666
DIY: Auto <---> 5 Speed Swap Lots of Pixs!!!

I’m not going to list every single tool and socket I used, but the tools you will need should be a decent socket set and have a variety of types and sizes.

First off I would like to thank edsmax for swinging by and checking out my progress and lending a hand, Blackspec for helping me via PM with my several questions, DankBMW for listing most of the parts and info and xmltok for providing the hookup to start the car without the automatic transmission

Overall the parts cost me ~ $2900 (But please keep in mind that, that included 2 - 5 speed transmissions, If I hadn’t bought the first transmission lot it would have only cost me ~ $2350. Most of the parts I bought brand new at

I did this myself and with the help and tips from some members online that I kept exchanging emails and PM’s with. Overall my car was sitting for 3 months even though the install only took about 14 days (I had to wait between the weeks that it would rain all week and days I had off from work to actually work on the car. Anyways here is the pretty much complete parts list, some aren’t included because I went aftermarket for some things such as UUC SSK + DSSR, Clutch Stop, and Clutch Line.

Parts Needed:

5 speed Manual Transmission - $600
Driveshaft - $100
Flywheel - $550 came with my first transmission + Resurfacing - $60
New Clutch kit (Comes with Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Clutch release bearing and new pilot bearing) - $324.70 (That’s with overnight shipping since I was impatient and couldn’t wait)

Because I went aftermarket on these parts I don’t have the OEM part #’s listed:

UUC SSK + DSSR - $345
UUC Clutch Stop - $20
UUC Clutch line - $29
UUC Transmission mounts - $55

Miscellaneous Brand new OEM BMW parts and fluids – approximately $816.30

Here are all my receipts:


Clutch Alignment Tool
Socket Extensions (about 30” of them)
Good Torque Wrench
Breaker Bar
Large Adjustable Wrench
Vice Grips
Metric sockets ranging in sizes from 7mm to 22mm (Some deep sockets in particular 13mm socket for exhaust bolts)
Torx Sockets
Allen Sockets
E - sockets (The female star sockets for transmission bell housing to engine housing, you will need 3 different sizes)
Blow Torch w/ mapping gas (Not necessary but may come in handy for really rusted exhaust bolts like mine)

Step 1:

Get the car on ramps and or jack stands (I personally had the front on ramps and the rear on jack stands 2 - 3 ton craftsman jack stands) and put your ebrake on.

Step 2:

Disconnect the battery (I recommend that if you have power seats to either remove the front drivers seat or remove the seat bolts first. This way you have easy access to installing the clutch lines under the carpet and new clutch/brake pedals when the time comes. You will be able to lie down making it must easier and a little more comfortable)

Step 3:

Removing exhaust, I’ll be honest between this and removing the auto transmission, were the most aggravating maybe due to the fact doing this on a slanted dirt driveway with only 13 – 14 inches of clearance. Anyways start by supporting the exhaust with jack stands. I had one at the exhaust manifold, one at the center of the exhaust system and the last at the muffler.

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