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Old 11-22-2006, 04:06 PM   #2
Ivegotissues666
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,015
My Ride: 88' BMW E30 SETA
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Moving onto the outer balljoint bolts, both were 19mm in my case and were easy to access using a 19mm or 3/4" open ended wrench. It's especially easy when you don't have your tires on either.









Step 5:

Once bolts all bolts are removed the only thing holding the control arms on is essentially rust and seized on. Not to worry, nothing a simple pickle fork and 3 lb hammer can't take care of.

Anyways working on either the inner or outer balljoints just wedge the pickle fork between the balljoints where they meet the front subframe and hit the pickle fok with the 3 lb hammer. A few good whacks and they should pop free.

















Step 6:

Now that the control arms are out (well in my case) I could see how much play the balljoints were giving, no wonder why my car failed inspection. Especially compared to the newer Meyle ones where there was virtually no play what so ever.



Anyways installation is the reverse of removal with the exception of changing the carrier bushings. At first I was going to install a set of BavAutos Urethene bushing but they eneded up being too small I beleive 59/60mm as opposed to my carriers being 65/66mm <-- (Correct me if I'm wrong)

So off to the dealership to pay full price for a new pair of OEM bushings. $140 later, come home and finih up the install. Easiest way to remove the old carrier bushings intact without making a mess was to use a 3 jaw puller. I had one around fom previous job so this is a tool to definately keep handy if you plan on working on your car alot.



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