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Old 02-12-2007, 02:46 AM   #28
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: TX
Posts: 282
My Ride: 03 Evo VIII/02 325Ci

Today's progress:

I thought I took more pics than this, but I guess not...

How to make a 4/8 gauge distribution block fit 1/0 and 4's called drill bits

Anyone ever wonder how to crimp a terminal on 1/0 gauge wire? Just beat on this crimper with a 3 pound hammer 6-8 times and it's done One of the few install tools I kept and am glad that I did because without one, it's a pain in the arse.

Yes, 1/0 is overkill. I had originally planned to fall right in the 1400-1500W range and may still get there, but there's no such thing as wire that's "too big". Besides, there's only about 18" of it, so it wasn't that big of a deal.

I was originally planning to connect the power ring to the stud on top of the battery terminal, but the 0 gauge ring terminal is about as big as the battery terminal itself and needed too much space to make the bend, so I connected it to the other terminal. There is even just barely enough room to bend the cable at that location.

I whipped up a board to hold the fuse holder and distribution block. We'll call this revision 1. I might take it all the way to the tail light and add the ground distribution block on the right. I cut the curve on the bottom left because I though I was going to need the extra room to get the 1/0 wire up to the holder.

I was originally going to put a piece 1/4" MDF on the back of the trunk panel like a torque plate, but decided I didn't want to drill all kinds of holes through the trunk panel, so mounting points are the stock battery bracket and a single screw up top. It holds very well, but I had to use a longer bolt for the battery bracket.

The board will be carpeted when I get some and make "revision 2", but for the time being, I just painted it black. Since I am only running 1 amp for the time being, I cheated and just used a 4-gauge ground straight from the amp to the - battery terminal

I also didn't spend any time at all hiding wires or routing them (obviously) since the amp will be moving as soon as I make a sub enclosure and then I'll do all the wiring. I'll do somethng a bit more permanent with the x-overs and EQX at the same. Yes, I need to cut one more board to mount the amp/EQX on temporarily.

So pretty much everything in the trunk was thrown together for now, but it works, so I won't complain.

I haven't really had time to mess with it much, but it's definitely 100000x better than stock. I am running half of a Crossfire VR804 (4x100W) to them with the amp gain set to minimum and all other gains set to 0 (EQX) so far. Midbass sounds "OK", but I might have a phase issue. Something seems a little off and I can't put my finger on it. It goes loud and stays clean, but something sounds a bit thin...might be the x-over point or phase, but I haven't had time to try swapping it.

They mids don't seem real happy when I try to run full range + the passives (inherent low end roll off). I tried using the crossover on the amp to try about 70Hz, but that's a big guess on that knob and it didn't seem any better anyway, so I am using the high pass outs (90Hz) on the EQX and they can get loud and stay clean there.

I am running the tweets at -6dB on the passives and it's a pretty good blend with the mids there. 0dB they have no problem overpowering the mids. I am actually quite surprised how well it images/stages for having everything in the stock locations, but the lack of sub bass is really killing it. Some tweaking with the EQX and phase might help, but I need to get the doors cut and install the subs soon.

Even though I am using the cheesiest RCA jacks (GE) that I wired myself for the inputs, busted out the trusty $1.99 3ft Radio Shack RCAs for outs and am using the stock ground in addition to the battery ground, there is no noise! I was truly expecting to have some horrendous engine noise if not total distortion, but it's all clear.

Anyway, I'll fiddle with tuning and "easy" stuff during the week and will plan to cut the doors next week...
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