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DIY: ATF Change

373K views 354 replies 145 participants last post by  Scuddyholly 
#1 ·
This is a step-by-step guide for draining and refilling your Automatic Transmission Fluid in your BMW. The procedure is based off of a 93,000 mile BMW 323i Steptronic with the GM A5S360R (same as A5S390R) transmission. Your vehicle may vary. I assume no responsibility for users following this DIY.

Materials
Required
  • BMW ATF Fluid (7 Liters, Texaco ETL 7045E, PN: 83220026922)
  • BMW AT Filter Kit (Includes filter, gasket, and bolts; PN: 24117557070)
  • T40 Socket (For drain plug)
  • T45 Socket (For fill plug, must be L-shape)
  • 10mm Socket
  • Socket Wrench
  • Socket Extension (Short)
  • Screw Driver
  • Automotive Jack
  • 4 Jack Stands
  • Fluid Pump
  • Gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Container with Liter Measurement (Up to 6 Liters)
  • Lint Free Rags/Towels
Optional
  • Ramps/Wood (My vehicle is too low to fit the jack under)
  • Torque Wrench (For use with drain plug)
  • Scan Tool (For accurately measuring AT temperature)
  • Catch Pan/Kitty Liter (ATF stains driveways)
  • Creeper (Makes being on your back a lot easier)
  • Fill Plug (PN: ?, contains a gasket which prevents leaks but, is rarely changed)
  • Drain Plug (PN: 24117533937, contains a gasket which prevents leaks but, is rarely changed)
Difficulty - 4/10
This is not a 1st DIY for sure but it is feasible. The DIY can be accomplished in about 2-3 hours for the first time. Most of the job occurs below the vehicle. It can be accomplished by one person but, an assitant is helpful. Be aware however, this tune-up requires the vehicle to be running at times while working underneath.​
Procedure
  1. Begin by gathering all the materials needed to complete the project. Be sure you have an open work space, as the vehicle will be running at certain points. The vehicle will be out of commision for roughly 2-3 hours.
  2. We will start by jacking the vehicle as high into the air as possible. Drive your vehicle up onto a set of ramps or wood, to clear the jack. Put the car in park, engage the emergency brake, and chock the rear wheels. Then jack up the front end using the center jack pad. (See "Jack/Lift Points for E46") Place jack stands underneath the two front jack pads and lower it carefully. Repeat on the rear, jacking up on the U-brace in the rear, placing jack stands, and lowering slowly. Now try your best to knock the vehicle loose before you get underneath it.
  3. Now we are ready to begin the ATF change. The ATF should be drained when the vehicle is cold. Place the catch pan underneath the AT area and have your catch container (with liter measurement) ready. We will begin by unbolting the fill plug (don't wanna empty the fluid without knowing we can fill it, right?). It takes a T45 torx L-shape to fit into the small area that the fill plug is located. You might need to use a pipe or other various tool to provide you with enough leverage to loosen the plug. Unscrew the plug but be prepared to have fluid come out.
  4. Once all the fluid has come out, place the fill plug in a safe location (throw it away if you are replacing it). Now using the T40 Torx socket unscrew the drain plug. Be sure you have the catch container directly below the drain plug, otherwise it could get messy. Also, be careful not to drop the drain plug into the catch container or you will have to fish it out of nasty ATF. Once all of the fluid has dripped out, screw the new or old drain plug back in (discard the old plug if you are replacing it). Torque the drain plug to 14 ft-lb if available.
  5. Move your catch container off to the side, in a location where it won't spill. We are now going to remove the AT pan to replace the filter. Begin by unbolting the 22 10mm bolts holding the pan up, using a socket extension. You can discard the screws. If the pan is stuck to the bottom of the AT pry at the rear driver's side corner with a screwdriver. Once the pan is off place it off to the side. Discard the old pan gasket.
  6. We are now ready to remove the old filter. Put both hands on either side of the filter and pull down firmly. It should come down fairly easy. Discard the old filter. Check to see if the sealing ring remained in the transmission. (see picture below) If so, using the screwdriver push up on one side of the ring so it moves vertically and pull it out with the screwdriver. Discard the ring.
  7. Find the new filter kit. Open and remove the filter. Install the filter by grasping both sides and pushing up until the sealing ring is out of site. The white cap should be at the base of the transmission.
  8. Now it is time to clean out the AT pan. Pour the excess fluid into your catch container. Now wipe out all of the old fluid and gunk around the magnet using lint free cloths (can't introduce debris into the AT). Be sure to also wipe down where the gasket will make contact on the pan as well as the AT.
  9. Once the pan is clean it is time to re-install it on the vehicle. Remove the gasket from the filter kit, as well as the screws. Coat the gasket with some ATF. Now get ready for the hardest part of the job. You must hold the AT pan over your head, while being sure that the gasket is seated properly, and screwing in the bolts. Once you get a few bolts in it is all downhill. The bolts are only torque to 7 ft-lb, so it isn't necessary to break out the torque wrench.
  10. Once the pan is re-attached we are ready to start the fill process! Calculate the total amount of fluid drained from the transmission from your catch container. I got roughly 5L. Using the fluid pump, fill the car with the same amount of fluid you drained from it. Once you finish insert the new or old fill plug finger tight.
  11. Now we must start the vehicle to get up to temperature. If you have the scan tool go ahead and plug it in, after you turn on the car. The goal here is to get all the fluid in the nooks and crannies of the AT and allow the AT to reach normal operating temperature. From here on out the engine must be on. Turn on the car and put the A/C on (increase idle speed). Shift between gears several times (P->R->N->D, 5 times back and forth) and pause briefly between each gear (5 secs).
  12. With the vehicle in park, check the temperature. It should be between 85 and 120 degrees F. If you don't have the scan tool, touch the bottom of the AT pan. If it is warm and you can maintain steady contact, it is roughly the right temperature.
  13. Be sure you are wearing gloves. The ATF coming out of the fill plug will be HOT. Have your catch container ready. Unscrew the fill plug. If fluid is coming out, the AT is at the correct fluid level. If not, use the fluid pump to fill until it overflows. Screw the fill plug back in as tight as possible, it is too small an area for a torque wrench.
  14. Turn the vehicle off. Congratulations! You have done the impossible and changed the ATF on your BMW. Double check to make sure everything is screwed in tightly and not leaking. If you got any ATF on the exhaust, wait till the vehicle cools and use some degreaser, otherwise you will smell it every time you run the car.
  15. Take the vehicle off of the jack stands and be sure to place kitty liter over any spilled ATF. Take your vehicle for a test drive and enjoy your "new" AT. Be sure to safely dispose of your used ATF and ATF covered supplies.
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Results
The car shifts A LOT better. Shifts between gears happen faster and smoother than before. Reverse engages faster as well (Immediately as opposed to several second delay, if at all). In the morning when the vehicle is cold, there is no issues whatsoever.​
The fluid coming out of the AT was completely black. I strongly suggest anyone planning on keeping the car past 100K miles to change out the fluid. If you are considering on waiting until the AT gives you problems before changing, it will be too late. This talk of changing your ATF causing transmission failure is only in certain situations (AT was already failing, not replacing filter, incorrect fluid).​
I will keep this thread updated with my experience every so often and will notify immediately if the AT fails. I am probably going to change the fluid and filter again every 30,000 miles (might eventually switch to non-BMW fluid). If you plan on going through with this service I strongly suggest researching as much as possible.​

Good luck if you choose to change your ATF. You are welcome to post your experience (positive or negative) or other BMW ATF related links.
 
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#174 · (Edited)
ZF says in their Lifeguard material that "The ZF-Lifeguard Fluid products make up a range of synthetic heavy-duty oils intended exclusively for ZF's automatic car transmissions." Unless you find something in the European GM transmission documents that says that Lifeguard is a permissibile transmission fluid, I'd pass on Bavauto's advice.

Edit ... just looked at Pelican parts, and they list one Febi fluid as "Febi Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 liter, Equivalent to: Dexron VI, Texaco ETL-8072B ...". Here's the link
 
#178 ·
Hello everyone! Just changed the ATF today, it shifts great no slipping anymore. I did three times drain and fill... I torqued the bolts on the pan for 7 ft.lb. Then later for no reason decided to torque it more to 14 ft.lb. Stupid idea! One of the bolts is stripped now. It didn't come off when I tried to unscrew it by hand, but it's less tide than 7ft.lb. All other bolts are ok. I left all of 'em at 14ft.lb. Didn't want to lose 'em up, because probably the gasket is now smashed and might start leaking if it's lose. It's not leaking for now. If it starts leaking I will probably buy longer bolts and add nuts to it. If anyone have a better idea please post it. In case I have a problem with it I will want to fix it right away!
 
#184 ·
Changed the ATF fluid and filter yesterday @170K Km following the DIY. Fluid was black, with sludge on the magnet.
GM transmission ATF fluid and filter kit are OEM from the dealer - filter kit with BMWCCA discount was $161 plus tax and the ATF (8 L, 2 jugs) was $150 plus tax (ouch). Fluid from the dealer was branded Petro Canada Dexron VI.

DIY procedure was great, and various tips from everyone. The only exception was the filler plug, destroyed 2 tools in the process of getting the filler plug loose - my buddy made me a tool. Took at t45 bit and cutoff the length about mid-way, then used a Snapon box wrench with a short lead pipe over it for torque. My suggestion to all is really get prepared for the filler plug issue before you start anything.

What was really unsettling is that about 6L came out, and following the procedure we put in about 5L (total after warmup). Seems as if the factory fill was overfilled which may explain the shift delays when cold. So far so good, will test out the car more today (its cold today and hopefully I no longer have the reverse-to-drive delay when cold).
 
#196 ·
Changed the ATF fluid and filter yesterday @170K Km following the DIY. Fluid was black, with sludge on the magnet.
GM transmission ATF fluid and filter kit are OEM from the dealer - filter kit with BMWCCA discount was $161 plus tax and the ATF (8 L, 2 jugs) was $150 plus tax (ouch). Fluid from the dealer was branded Petro Canada Dexron VI.
The BMW filter kit is wayyyyyy overpriced at $161 plus tax. OEM kits can be found online for $50.

The fluid you bought from the dealer (Petro Canada Dexron VI) is also wayyyyy overpriced at $150 plus tax. Full synthetic Amsoil "Fuel Efficient ATF" (Dexron VI) is a thousand times better and less than half the price.

For the next fluid change, I would seriously recommend buying one of the $50 OEM filter kits and some Amsoil ATF. You would then be able to do the entire job for $150 instead of $311. Basically you paid double and the Petro Canada stuff is inferior when compared with the Amsoil.

I used to hate doing these "official BMW fluid changes" for customers using BMW's crap materials because I knew the customer was overpaying and sacrificing quality in the process.
 
#186 · (Edited)
Did the fluid exchange last weekend. Well this was on my x3, but the process was the same. Lucky, I had Torx screw only on the transmission drain plug. Other bolts were standard. Got about 5.1liters in..

Toughest part was closing the fill bolt at the end. Hot fluid was rolling down on my hands. Transmission shifts great now.
 
#188 ·
TonyJ, great idea. Will keep that in mind the next time.

All, the other mistake I made is that I didn't measure the fluid coming out, so I was always nervous about the correct level of fluid. Although I topped off with the engine running, measuring would have given me peace of mind for oil in vs oil out.

Thanks to everyone for there experiences. Makes it so much easier to complete the DIY
 
#191 ·
I am also planning to do this to my 2000 328i BMW, my only concern is if i change this is it possible my transmission will give out after all for the past 178k mile it has had the same transmission fluid im just worried that new transmission fluid will be to thick or to thin compared to what my transmission is used to. Any advice?
 
#192 · (Edited)
I think you are asking should you change the fluid after 178k miles?

I would say yes but be sure you do the procedure correctly. Any mistakes you make could easily cause the trans to fail.

If you are not 100% confident you can do the job just take it to a reputable BMW shop and have them do it. They will most likely not guarantee the work based on the mileage but your current trans fluid is way past being effective, i.e. it's filthy and like water.

If you do take it to a shop, I would NOT recommend doing a pressurized "flush", but just have them drop the pan, change the filter, and refill with either Dex 4 or Dex 6, whichever they or you decide (I like RedLine brand but YMMV). Make sure they explain to you their procedure. Then check their procedure against what everyone on E46F says to do, just to be safe.

I'm not a mechanic so this is just my .02. GL with whatever you decide and keep us posted! :thumbup:

-Daniel
 
#194 ·
If you're talking about the fill plug, my ZF is a 8mm hex screw. There is no chance I can fit a wrench and socket in there, so I just bought an L shaped 8mm hex key from ebay. Surprisingly good quality. It was very tight so I have to insert it into a 50cm pipe to make it easier.

Pretty sure you can find it in hardware stores. (need good quality though)
 
#199 · (Edited)
Just wanted to say this post was great for my tranny job but something***8217;s happened along the way, as they usually do. I own an 8/2002 330XI that had 147K on it. Yes, I know!!! I bought the car with 101K and they said it had a flush but by the watery, silvery, brown , tranny hunting for gears I discovered lead me to believe a service report is a piece of paper and can be a lie. I want to do this sooner but kay sera...

There were some differences. The main difference is the filler plug is not a T45 but a 17mm shallow hex made from aluminum so it***8217;s going to strip!!. The shift linkage is in the way and causes all types of interference. I found it was best just to disconnect the linkage with a 13mm wrench and reset after done. The shift linkage on the tranny in the fully forward position is park. As I was doing the P-N-D sequence during fill I just clicked the linkage by hand to the three respective positions. I also did this on a lift so it was easy.

Also for filling the tranny I found this neat Attwood gear lube pump in the marine section @ Wal-Mart for 7 bucks, well worth it

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/gear-lube-pump

I ordered the Elring Klinger tranny kit from Pelican (24-11-7-557-070-M30)and discovered after I removed the filter that the one sent was slightly different and wouldn't let my pan sit flush. The new one had the open vents on the bottom with this plastic piece, the original had the vents on the angle part. The new one also had this standoff that I guess is supposed to sit on the pan and hold the pickup in tight. Original did not have this. I had to saw off all the plastic parts, deburr and clean them well. SEE PIX

I also used Castrol tranny fluid. After said and done, shift and drives like a dream. I plan on doing another fluid change in about 5000 to get some of the fluid that was in the torque converter. Also I am going to replace the fill plug since it***8217;s buggered
 

Attachments

#200 ·
Belmar, begging to differ-The fill on my '02 330x is indeed a T45. It is directly opposite the drive shaft, covered by a white sticker. The clearance is very small between the drive shaft & plug, needing a special/cutom tool to get at it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p>I took a T45 bit from a socket and ground it down. A 5/16" wrench fits the bit perfectly.</o:p>
<o:p>
</o:p>
I'm not saying what you did was wrong-it can be done that way. By using the T45 plug there were no obstacles in the way besides the drive shaft. When I pumped the new fluid in, I ran the fill tube over the drive shaft. Here is a discussion on the subject-
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=14845803#post14845803
 
#201 ·
I have a 99 323i with a rebuilt GM trans ($4000) installed by local indy (no local dealer) about 50k ago. It had been ok until a recent trip. I was about 500 miles from home and parked on uphill incline with with the engine running while I checked out of a hotel. When I departed onto the street I noticed it was slipping so I turned off into the first available lot. By then it wasn't slipping anymore.I did a quick visual and did see fluid dripping under the car or smell anything (what else can you check?) If I had been near home I would have had it towed in but since I was 500 miles from home, it was Sunday and I had my daughter with me I started driving again, all seemed normal. Then it happened again, about a month and 2500 miles later. This time, in front of my house, again the car had sat idling for a few minutes, this time with one side up on the sidewalk and the other wheels on the street, so about 6" out of level. Again it started slipping when I took off. So straight back into the garage and parked. Drained the fluid, about 6 qts. and it looked clean. When I dropped the pan the filter came down with it, I didn't have to pull it off the tranny. Could that be the problem? I plan to finish the service and see what happens.
 
#202 · (Edited)
So I did the filter and fluid change per the DYI. The filler plug was a bear, I ended up dropping the cross member right behind the trans (easy) and that allowed access with a 45 torx and 3/8 breaker bar with cheater pipe. I used some heat from a propane torch as well in case they used something like red loctite. The old filter dropped down with the pan and further investigation showed that it was a sloppy fit into the old seal that was still up in the tranny. That and there was only one of the orange seals instead of two like the new filter came with. I'm hoping that was the source of my problem. The new filter and seals required a firm push to install and is a nice tight fit. Refilled with Valvoline Import Full Synthetic, it took about 6.5 qt to fill. I did an oil change while I was at it since it was nearly time and the car was all jacked up and warmed up. Test drove it and it shifted normally but since it was an intermittant problem I won't know if the problem is solved. I plan to drain an fill the fluid again soon so I get a more complete change but I won't do it on the garage floor next time!

BTW one of the local parts stores (O'Rielly's) had the filter/gasket/seals in stock for $ 29.00
 
#203 ·
So I did the filter and fluid change per the DYI. The filler plug was a bear, I ended up dropping the cross member right behind the trans (easy) and that allowed access with a 45 torx and 3/8 breaker bar with cheater pipe. I used some heat from a propane torch as well in case they used something like red loctite. The old filter dropped down with the pan and further investigation showed that it was a sloppy fit into the old seal that was still up in the tranny. That and there was only one of the orange seals instead of two like the new filter came with. I'm hoping that was the source of my problem. The new filter and seals required a firm push to install and is a nice tight fit. Refilled with Valvoline Import Dexron VI. I did an oil change while I was at it since it was nearly time and the car was all jacked up and warmed up. Test drove it and it shifted normally but since it was an intermittant problem I won't know if the problem is solved. I plan to drain an fill the fluid again soon so I get a more complete change but I won't do it on the garage floor next time!

Keep us up to date as to if it fixed the issue, I can tell you the filter should not drop with the pan, and with it missing an o-ring you said you were probably sucking air through the neck. Shame on the shop though for making that mistake.

The drain and fill plugs shouldn't be that tight, it's something like a 22 ft lb spec IIRC. Mine were cemented in place from age but I could still break them free with a regular 3/8 ratchet.
 
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