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Hydraulic fluid leak - in front of rear tire

20K views 63 replies 8 participants last post by  ErdeM3 
#1 ·
I came out to find a puddle behind my drivers door/infront of my rear tire and wondered what it was... until I started to put up the top and knew exactly what the fluid is.

I searched and found all the PDFs on the 6 cylinders, yet would prefer a DIY if anyone has replaced the main or storage compartment cylinders - especially since the PDF for the main cylinders starts with "remove convertible top" :banghead:

I am going to assume it is the drivers side main cylinder that is leaking, yet need to check it - yet how? Its not the bow cylinder since the top would be stained. Its not the pump as I took out the trunk liner and inspected it. I don't suspect its the storage compartment cylinder as the leak is infront of the rear tire and the cylinder is behind the rear tire... right?

Help and pictures would be appreciated!
 
#36 ·
I've covered the issue with line #23 in this post: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15352070&postcount=26

Klaus and I are working on a solution, I should have a definitive answer this weekend of which direction to go, and have the solution installed within a couple weeks.

Can you take a pic of where line #23 is cut/split. Use the macro mode of your camera and get a really close high detailed picture of the cut/split. Without removing the line, could you confirm the split/cut is at the location shown in this photo (photo is of the passenger side, the driver side is exactly the same). The lines turning the first bend are visible just above the cylinder. The photo is taken with the rear window held in the highest position (stressing the lines the most at the first bend).



My line #23 was split right where the lines turn the corner. It was split vertically (using the picture as a reference), ie long the length of the line (not across the line).

If yours is similarly split then I think we can assume this is a weak point of the e46 top.
 
#39 ·
With the top down, the metal cover that protects line #23 at the first bend is about 2-3" from the valve block. Did you have to remove the metal cover with 4 #20 torque screws to see the split?
yeap, I did take out the metal cover.Then I was able to see the leak, actually the cut is inside that metal cover . Also, there is a slight damage before the line goes into the that metal cover... I will send you the picture tomorrow...

I am still trying to figure out the route of line #23. Can you draw a diagram on a picture?
 
#45 · (Edited)
yeap, I did take out the metal cover.Then I was able to see the leak, actually the cut is inside that metal cover . Also, there is a slight damage before the line goes into the that metal cover... I will send you the picture tomorrow...
I missed this post. Does your "slight damage" look like the line was bent around the edge of that metal cover? This is the damage to my line. The crease lines up with the edge of the metal cover.

The red arrow points to where you can see the line splitting.

 
#48 ·
Details to come tomorrow. I will also update the DIYs for Line #23 and for the Main Lift Cylinders with more photos.

Overall not too bad. Took under 3 hrs today to run a new line #23, and that included removing the entire top to run a new line #21 as well. Another hour to reinstall the trunk panels and rear interior now that I'm completely done.

After 6 months of having various lines and cylinders disconnected the fluid in the pump looked like Guinness, dark and frothy. The top was struggling to operate even with the correct level of fluid. Thankfully I bought a 1L bottle of hydraulic fluid from the Mercedes dealership ($20 for 1L vs $30 for 250 mL from BMW) as research indicated they are the same fluid (not sure why BMW charges an arm and a leg, hopefully Klaus can chime in). Drained and refilled with all new fluid and she works like a charm!
 
#51 ·
Details to come tomorrow. I will also update the DIYs for Line #23 and for the Main Lift Cylinders with more photos.

Overall not too bad. Took under 3 hrs today to run a new line #23, and that included removing the entire top to run a new line #21 as well. Another hour to reinstall the trunk panels and rear interior now that I'm completely done.
taylor192,

congratulations! Looking forward to your DIY - you have really covered a lot of ground. So far, no other forum member may have taken their top off as many times as you have during your discovery journey... ;) Let's clarify: the top normally needs to be taken off only to replace the main lift cylinders, right? Line #23 appears to be a problem for many E46s. What does it take to inspect it?

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
 
#53 ·
Thanks! Going to add this step to the DIY so those with this problem can get started:

Step 1: Contact Top Hydraulics to order an extended line #23. The longer line is needed to reroute the line around the tension bar and provide some slack where the line was crushed and split.
 
#58 ·
Is it possible to detach lines from the valve block without removing the top???

Hey dude,

I see you have done the hard work and replaced the line 23. I will work on it this weekend but I have some questions before hand.
First, I have never worked on a convertible before I am not familiar with it.:facepalm:..

I hear people saying lot of things about the alignment of the top, "don`t take it off, you gonna mess it etc"... I need to clarify some things. :thanks:
in your DIY, you say...
This took me about 2 hrs and did not have to remove the top from the car, nor the outer fabric from the top
-You just removed the inner fabric? if so, how? I made a search but couldn`t find anything! or Do I just need the space around c pillars so that you can see how the line is routed? (step#4 in your DIY)

-if you didn`t remove the top while taking out the line, how did you detach the line #23 from the valve block?
what kind of trick have you done to remove/install those hoses from the valve block. It seems almost impossible to do that without removing the top.

- I already take out the inside side trims rear seats etc.. Now waiting on how to detach the line and remove the inside interior fabric to reroute the line...

Thanks
E
 
#59 · (Edited)
Hey dude,

I see you have done the hard work and replaced the line 23. I will work on it this weekend but I have some questions before hand.
First, I have never worked on a convertible before I am not familiar with it.:facepalm:..
Hey dude,

I had never owned or worked on a convertible before either. When I first saw the leak I thought I was doomed to pay a specialist $Ks to fix it. Then I got into it and realized the top is fairly simple. The best thing you can do is get a really bright flashlight, a friend, and operate the top manually. Stop it at various positions and peak under the fabric top and headliner, in the storage area, ... to familiarize yourself with it.

Also, read the PDFs I link in the first post of the sticky.

I hear people saying lot of things about the alignment of the top, "don`t take it off, you gonna mess it etc"... I need to clarify some things. :thanks:
in your DIY, you say...
I cover this in Step 7 of the Main Lift Cylinders. In this photo there are 3 nuts circled in red, and a couple nuts not circled of the same size. The top is anchored to a plate, and the plate is anchored to the car. The position of the plate is set at the factory, so do NOT loosen the nuts NOT circled.



Mark the position of the other nuts so you can line up these up when reinstalling. Truthfully, once you tighten this nut the other 3 nuts fall into place. I didn't want to put that into the DIY since I feel it is important to mark the position of the nuts and some may skip it.



-You just removed the inner fabric? if so, how? I made a search but couldn`t find anything! or Do I just need the space around c pillars so that you can see how the line is routed? (step#4 in your DIY)
I did not remove any fabric. Sorry for not making that clear. I guess I shouldn't say "outer fabric" and say "any fabric" instead.

If you find you need more room at the corner of the tension bar you can remove some #20 torx screws to loosen the headliner. I didn't find I needed the room. Here's one:



I found the strings for the batwings got in the way. Removing the top mounting point for the string will help:



-if you didn`t remove the top while taking out the line, how did you detach the line #23 from the valve block?
what kind of trick have you done to remove/install those hoses from the valve block. It seems almost impossible to do that without removing the top.
I cover that in Step 3 of the Line #23 DIY. You need a set of long nose bent pliers (preferrably 90 degree bent):

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3492-1...7425216&sr=8-4&keywords=long+bent+nose+pliers


I'll add this photo to the DIY. The arrow points to where you will use the pliers to access the line and retaining clips:



As I note in Step 3, doing it this way is easy to remove, difficult to reinstall. To reinstall the line just try to get the end of the fitting in the proper hole first, even if it is on an odd angle. This way you can re-position the pliers to straighten the fitting while applying pressure to keep the fitting in the hole.

The hardest part will be reattaching the black plastic retainer. You may drop the retainer so have something handly to retrieve it. The best way to attach it is on an angle, putting the end that locks against a fitting in first.

- I already take out the inside side trims rear seats etc.. Now waiting on how to detach the line and remove the inside interior fabric to reroute the line...
Sweet, you're half way done. As I said before, no need to remove ANY fabric.

PM me if you get stuck in the middle of this DIY. PMs send me an email to my phone so hopefully I'll respond quickly. Everyone else, please don't flood my PM inbox unless you're truly stuck in the middle of a DIY.
 
#60 ·
Thanks dude, I really appreciate the DIY
I already ordered the line from TopHydraulics, Klaus was really helpful. I should have the line on Friday and start working on the top on Saturday.
I will keep you guys posted and take pictures while I am working on it. It might me helpful to others.

Thanks
E
 
#61 ·
guys,

Took almost 5 hours to put the new line in..there is a lot to figure out so be patient...But After you did the job you will see it is not that tough..:) I could do the same thing in two hours now...
-This is not one man job...You need a good friend here to help you..
-I didnt take out the top or any fabric..Most of the time you need to adjust the position of frame to work on different areas, to see better
-I did not cut the zip ties at the C Pillar ..once you cut the old #line 23, you can take the line out easily...

Thank you all specially,
Taylor without your support and encouragement.. I wouldn't be doing this.
Klaus from Top Hydraulics if he didnt manufacture the extended line #23 I wouldnt be able to change this line cause you can not reroute the line...

Cheers
E
 
#63 ·
Good job! Thanks for the notes, anything else that would help?

- How hard was it to reinsert the line and black plastic retainer with the long bent pliers? I found it difficult.
- I couldn't pull the line through without cutting the "top" zip tie. I'll adjust the instructions to at least try pulling the line through before cutting the zip ties.
- I'll emphasize the friend in the tools. I listed it, yet I know some will attempt by themselves and get in over their head.
- I found I only needed the top in the 2 positions I showed in pictures. What other positions helped which steps?

Cheers

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App
 
#64 ·
Good job! Thanks for the notes, anything else that would help?
I believe you covered pretty much everything, I thing that I can add, it might look complex but its really not.. :)

- How hard was it to reinsert the line and black plastic retainer with the long bent pliers? I found it difficult.
Inserting the new line into valve block and locking it was the toughest thing in this job. I bought that long bent pliers but didnt make use of it that much,
That black plastic retainer maybe you should mention it in the DIY, and yes omg it took almost an hour to put it back, I end up using a plastic tape and a screwdriver instead of long bent pliers.


- I found I only needed the top in the 2 positions I showed in pictures. What other positions helped which steps?
These are the positions that you basically work on, but I had no idea where are the lines exactly until now. So I had to inspect it very careful to understand it.
 
#62 ·
ErdeM3,

congratulations - you turned your coupe back into a convertible without potentially paying far over a kilobuck ($1k) to a shop or dealer!

We are now hosting taylor192's DIY for line removal on our website, as well:
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/e46line23guide.pdf. Basically the same as what taylor192 has posted on the forum, but you can download it as a pdf file.

The extended line # 23 (longer than the one sold by BMW in p/n 54347025598, but using the same German-made hose material and fittings) is now available directly through our website: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/bmw-e46/225-extended-hydraulic-line-number-23.html

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
 
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