Tapping was easy. I used a T wrench from autozone and splashed on some rubbing alcohol every half turn.
The hard part was cleaning the aluminum shavings off. The cap had oil residue in it from when I did the test fitting and aluminum micro-dust was stuck in every nook an cranny. It took a unbelievable hour long repeating campaign of degreaser, alcohol, heat gunning, compressed air, Q-tips, dental picks and paper towels to finally get it all off.
Next I put in the senders with 2 wraps of teflon tape and went for a high rpm drive to make sure the seals were sealed at full heat/oil pressure. After a little weepage I ended up tightening both of them down more.
Then it was time for wiring. These instructions were very helpful:
http://www.csua.berkeley.edu/~lleong/vdo_install/
Notes:
1. I used an Add-a-circuit crimped to the three red gauge wires to get switched power to the gauges. Also, each red wire was given a separate inline Littlefuse per Autometer's instructions.
2. I couldn't get the dimmable face lighting to work by splicing into the ash tray light's positive wire (the non brown one?). Whenever it was attached the gauges went crazy and turned on and off every second displaying weird numbers. I decided I was happy with the red digital numbers anyway and left those wires unconnected.
3. The wideband connector was too big for the usual nipple firewall entry point so I used the larger grommet nearby and popped out the sound insulation knockout with a long screw driver. This larger opening was way easier with all the chunky Autometer connectors.
4. There was a grounding problem with the oil pressure sender initially. It caused the pressure gauge to show a no-sender-connected 'E0' error code if the pressure was below 30 psi:
I read that teflon tape (and oil?) can sometimes prevent a sender from grounding perfectly through its threads and cause this kind of problem. The Autometer instructions suggest grounding to somewhere on the body of the sender in this situation. This is my workaround for the time being:
Everything else was straightforward.
Here's the wiring path until I get around to tubing it up and/or extending it so it doesn't have to pass over the washer fluid tank.
And here's the payoff for staying up till 3AM last night
(note that the wideband sensor is not plugged yet so it's just making up AFRs):
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