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Swaybar endlinks, possible alternatives for lowered/slammed cars

45K views 43 replies 24 participants last post by  Mr.R 
#1 · (Edited)
I am going to lower my car on coilovers and need to replace the swaybar endlinks to compensate for the drop. From searching I have managed to figure out the following:

-Ideal size for endlinks 7in
- 2008 chevy impala ss rear endlinks may work
- Autozone P/N 18365(what car is this made for ?) may work
- 2001 toyota corolla rear endlink

I haven't seen any pictures of these alternatives working but im sure there is a possibility, wanted to know if anyone had any more info on endlinks that will work. Please say the make/model/year of the car they came from
 
#3 ·
is that short enough though? only looks like its about 3/4" - 1" smaller

After a little searching I believe the 2005 - 2008 Buick Allure Sway Bar Link Kit REAR (MOOG K6662) will work.

I just need to know make/model/year so I can order the part from one of our suppliers at work.

There are a few post with autozone or advance stock numbers but those wont help me get them from my supplier
 
#4 ·
The Autozone part #18365 actually are the Impalla SS ones. I am actually the one who discovered this through working there. Ive been slammed on them for about 5 months with 0 problems. You will actually be amazed at how well they fit for being a chevy impala part, everything is spot on. took me a while to locate, had to go through every box 1 by 1!
 
#5 ·
I was about to buy the e36 ones till I discovered these. Also got a discount which affected my decision. They are shorter than the e36 ones as well, lined up perfectly.
 
#6 ·
anyone know if they will work on an Xi? The swaybar links are heavier on an Xi from what I've read... also, please clarify the swaybar issue. I've lowered my Xi 1.5" using a H+R and Bilstein setup.. My swaybars still seem to have full range of motion. Been getting mixed answers when I posted a thread previously (several months ago).... I understand the concern and reason to use shorter links is because the lowering reduces the range of motion of the swaybar??? But mine seem to still have full range of motion; so what's the "deal"? Done alot of work on suspension setup and want to ensure I'm receiving the full benefits..... TMS also has adjustable links for the Xi. Should I go with these and reduce the length by the 1.5" drop I've introduced?
 
#10 ·
thanks! Still curious as to the "need" for them..... IS there restricted movement of the swaybar requiring this mod? How can I tell if mine is restricted or limited? When I recently had the front suspension off, it didn't seem they were being impacted by the lowering..... can someone please explain in a little more detail as to the effect of lowering on the swaybar. I've heard talk of pre-loading on lowered cars..... is that the concern?
 
#13 ·
From reading this thread, i feel like a total noob.

I currently have eibach springs with koni shocks.

How important is it to replace the endlinks to compensate the drop? Is it needed for regular street driving?
 
#15 ·
from reading this thread, i feel like a total noob.

I currently have eibach springs with koni shocks.

How important is it to replace the endlinks to compensate the drop? Is it needed for regular street driving?
+1
 
#20 · (Edited)
K folks, just got off phone with Turner Motorsports.

I think we've finally got the answer.

1. The way to establish if you have pre-loading. Jack car and undo 1 swaybar link. With car on ground (level surface) see if you can align swaybar that link with mounting hole on strut. NOt much room and you'll be on your back to check. If it aligns without an issue, then you have no pre-loading and DON'T NEED adjustable links . If it doesn't align, you have preloading to one side and will need adjustable links to correct (unless tracking and intentional).

2. Adjustable Links; non-adjustable lowered suspension. If you are running a non-adjustable lowered setup (such as mine; Bilstein and H&R sport), then unless you see an issue with mechanical interference or ride height, you don't need adjustable links. By ride height I mean, although non-adjustable setups should be identical on both sides, that is sometimes not the case (variances in manufacturing/QA). conduct the test above to ensure your suspension had no pre-loading due to these differences. A quick way to check is measure ride height from top of wheel well to ground and compare sides... THEY SHOULD BE IDENTICAL!

3. Adjustable Links; Coilover/adjustable lowered suspension. If you are running a coil-over or adjustable height lowered setup (Bilstein PSS, etc.), then you should definitely have adjustable links. The reasoning is that with adjustable setups, you can't GUARANTEE similar ride heights on both sides because of the infinite amount of adjustment available. A marginal height difference on either side will cause pre-loading and the need for adjustable links.

4. Adjustable links; rear suspension. run same test to determine if pre-loading exists. Another consideration for rear suspension which is worse in the rear; is swaybar mechanical clearance. Unlike the front which has ample room and clearance for the swaybar the rear is quite a bit tighter for clearance (both top and bottom), so an adjustable link should be considered if there are concerns about clearance. Again, with a minimally-lowered suspension, this should not be an issue (but worth checking).

So there you have it. I want to thank Drew @ TMS for his assistance in finally clearing this up for me and hopefully others. :thumbsup: :excited:
 
#25 · (Edited)
It could have been stiff before, but, lowereing should not have changed the amount of stiffness @ all. There is such a relatively small additional steering load as a result of the lowering, unless you added spacers as well; (cause the spacers change the load point out from the hub and could cause additional load, but that load would showup as burnt bearings) or went to execessively wide tires.

When did you replace the control arms and CV joints? By CV joints do you mean front half-shafts (axles) or do you mean they repacked the CV joints?

Also, have your mechanic check the top bearing on the front struts. Although they don't typically go; they could be causing the problem, although it sounds mores like power steering pump! Was your power steering ever removed or disconnected?; whats the fluid level and could your power steering system need to be bled or fluid changed (contaminated)....

I'd look @ suspension for sure, but other than tie rod ends, struts and balljoints, there is little other that will impact steering "stiffness". If it was loose, I would suggest Guibo (steering coupler), but that produces sloppy steering. Assuming they installed new suspension correctly, I'm betting on power steering related issue.

Bad rear bouncing could be end-links (been getting some of that recently too); suspect rear end-links or possibly strut bar travel (as I mentioned in previous post). I will be investigatiing that over next few days; not excessive in my case, more annoying than anything.

But I can't complain, my Xi has 180.000 miles on it and I'm still running mostly original factory parts (control arms, CV, axles, end-links, etc are all original). Just replaced FCABs 3 weeks ago.
 
#26 ·
Yes i replaced the axel's, new CV joints. And holy crap, all original is great, the north east is killing mine, however i suspect alot of this luck is coming from the owner before... i was wondering about the steering as well... i already had the car lowered before the new bilsteins, just added bilsteins, so its not really lower. I will take this up with the mechanic and let ya know
 
#27 ·
The Autozone part #18365 actually are the Impalla SS ones. I am actually the one who discovered this through working there. Ive been slammed on them for about 5 months with 0 problems. You will actually be amazed at how well they fit for being a chevy impala part, everything is spot on. took me a while to locate, had to go through every box 1 by 1!
Im running the ones from an SS impala. Like chad said functions great 0 problems.:thumbsup:
Do only 2008 impala SS endlinks work? Just wanna make sure I get the right ones when I go to the store
 
#31 ·
For the record, those impala links contributed to a broken endlink mounting tab on my shock body.

I believe the cause was that even though I was lower then most with just springs, I was not super friggin on the ground low. Therefore, the angle of my sway bar, rather then being mostly horizontal, had a slight angle upward (25-40 degrees) to compensate for the shorter length of the Impala links. Also this has to do with the location of the endlink tab on my shock body (may be higher up then yours). I'm running Hotchkis sways and D2 coilovers, the tab on the shock is a thick piece of steel, and you could see how it was under twisting like stress and sheered off. The weld held just fine and was not the source of the break. I'm pretty sure the break occurred as I hit a small pothole one night b/c I remember hearing a loud bang and thought it was just from running over something on the road. There was no preload or any of that mess everyone seems to freak out over, everything was installed with the whole front end off the ground.

I'm just bringing this up as a precaution for people with a setup like mine and to suggest not running them too short to where you have to angle you sway bar too far up. I was able to get a new shock body sleeve from my friend at D2 and correct the problem. Also I reinstalled the Hotchkis front endlinks and haven't had any problems since.
 
#32 ·
1. I went to autozone and bought the impala endlinks... the things snapped when I cranked my wheel so I have been running stock end links since then and havent had any problems. I have a question though... I fitted some wheels on my car and would like to increase my negative camber, would I buy camber arms or camber bushings because ecstuning sells camber bushings that go to -3 but I dont see how bushings could increase the negative camber?
 
#33 ·
i also bought some impala sway bar endlinks for my e46 coupe
ive had them for 4 months or so, but do they last? i mean do they hold up? cause i feel like the impala endliks have crapped out
i hear a clunking noise coming from them when i drive slow over bumps...
has this happened to anyone?
is it the size of my wheels?

im not sure and ive been driving like this for a while now
its cold and always raining so i havent really had time to check it out
but thats what it sounds like to me
 
#35 · (Edited)
My car is not lowered, but i cant fit my end links onto the sway bar.

I have a Brand new setup:
- Koni Yellow shocks (stock springs)
- UUC sway bars
- Meyle HD end links

When i try fitting everything, can't get the end links on without sway bar hitting the control arm. Geometry looks all wrong. Not sure if i should go for shorter E36 end links, or something else

 
#36 · (Edited)
I know its been a couple months.. Wanted to bump this.
there's a lot of good info in here but still doesn't seem like there has been an end all solution on which sway bar end links should be ran.
Especially for those who are planning on lowering beyond 1.5" (speaking on the guys who want to slam their cars) 3" or more.

Are adjustable end links mandatory?
 
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