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Fan clutch.

5K views 52 replies 11 participants last post by  always-there 
#1 ·
Hey guys. So I just replaced my fan clutch because there was this (18 wheeler fan noise ) going on, and after I starting noticing the same sound, but louder. I'm hoping it's only because it's new/breaking in. Any ideas? I've read a couple of threads so far, but none that directly answer the question towards a solution. E46mango..DMAX, help?
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yes, I understand that. But the clutch fan is attached to the water pump. If the bearing is bad then that can explain the 18 wheel fan noise you are referring to. Also why not convert to electric fan since you are already in for a 100 bucks for the clutch and another 100 would get you a electric fan. In the long run you save money and not have to worry about the exploding fan impeller and the clutch.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Take the belt off and run the car for a couple of minutes. Do not allow it to overheat, but without the belt you will know if the noise comes from the belt/pulley system, or something else.

The fan clutch is almost never the source of noise of any kind. Noises from the area will come from the waterpump, the idler and tensioner pulleys, and the power steering pump and alternator.

When you start the car on a cold engine, there is a very loud fan that pushes fresh air into the exhaust stream to help the CATs do what CATs do but don't do very well while cold. After the CATs heat up, the fan turns off and stays off until the next Cold Engine Start. If you hear a loud fan on the first start of the day, or the first start after a long period of being parked, then the noise is 1.) normal, and 2.) costly to fix, and 3.) completely unimportant to the car so you can wait for failure of the fan -- which will be noted by the Check Engine light and a code (P1423, or something like that). You can wait for the Secondary Air Pump to completely fail and the car won't care one bit. The Smog Shop guy will care, but the car won't.
 
#16 ·
The sound is only produced when I take off around 3-4k rpm's. As Jay mentioned, it might be the water pump wearing out. Maybe the bearing's really worn out causing the fan to turn at higher revolutions. If that's the case then I'll have to replace it. But for now I'm waiting for the struts to come In so I can fix that problem too.
 
#20 ·
You didn't correctly bleed the cooling system. Search for the threads here on how to properly bleed. Did mine last weekend with the proper procedure and the temperature went and stayed right at 12 O Clock.
 
#22 ·
Bleed the system . Drive the front on 2x4s to help the air out the bleed valve. Turn heat on highest temp and lowest fan speed (don't start car) and unscrew the bleed valve until coolant starts to come out. Have towels ready to avoid making a mess. Look to see if there is any air bubbles in the coolant, if there is none , screw the bleed valve back on . DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BLEED SCREW . Very easy to strip this !! Then top off coolant to correct level. Now start car, unscrew bleed screw just a little to make double sure the air is out. Now go drive around until it gets to operating temp. Then allow car to cool fully. Then top off coolant.
 
#26 ·
I don't think I said that correctly, lol. I replaced the water pumpand fan clutch thinking either would solve the loud fan noise, but nope. As soon as I drove it after replacing the water pump it was completely gone, and after the overheat it came right back. If you guys have any idea what it could be it would be appreciated.
 
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