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Valve Cover Gasket Change!

212K views 364 replies 144 participants last post by  PabloCruise 
#1 ·
Finally got around to changing my old leaky valve cover gasket. Really easy to do, just time consuming. Didn't quite finish today since I ran out of time. And yes, I know the engine bay is dirty, it's gonna get cleaned up once the car is painted and out of this shop.


Removing the cabin micro-filter:

Twist the three knobs 90 degrees counter clockwise and they will pop up. Lift the cover up and out.


Remove the micro-filter, it is just sitting there.


Undo the 4 gold torx bolt and 4 plastic wire harness clips. The torx bots use a T30 torx bit.


With the wire harness clips undone the lower part of the wire holder comes off. Pull the wires down out of the holder. Lift the micro-filter tray up and towards the front of the car.


With micro-filter and housing removed.


Removing Cosmetic Engine Covers:

Pry out the bolt/nut covers using a flat head screwdriver.


Remove the oil cap and undo the two 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts and remove the cosmetic engine covers.


Removing Ignition Coils and Harness:

Slide the metal clip of the ignition coils using your fingers, and then pull the electrical connector out of each coil.


Remove the 12 10mm bolts holding down the ignition coils. Then just pull each coil out and set them aside.


Undo the small brown grounding wire and move the ignition wiring harness over to the side and out of the way.


Engine with coils removed and ignition wiring out of the way.


Removing Wiring Attached to Valve Cover:

Remove the wires and tubes from the metal clips.


Remove the two 8mm bolts and grounding straps.



Removing Crankcase Vent Tube:

Squeeze the top and bottom of the crankcase vent tube and pull off the valve cover.



Removing the Valve Cover:

Remove all 15 nuts along with washer and seal.


This is what happens if you repeatedly start up your car, drive it 50 feet, and then turn it off before the car warms up. Condensation mixes with the oil and you get this kinda oily foamy mixture. I suggest you clean your valve cover, remove the old gaskets, and then put in the new



No sludge, so I'm happy. :D


This is where my leak was.


Happy looking camshaft lobes. Not bad after 74,000 miles.


Assembly is reverse of disassembly. Also make sure you don't clamp any wires underneath the valve cover during reassembly like what I did. And don't over-tighten the valve cover bolts.
 
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#309 ·
#310 ·
Damn that's a lot of sealant! :rofl:

I'd much rather trust the BMW recommendation of a small amount on the sharp corners of the head, and not applying the sealant directly to the gaskets in such large quantities. That's just asking for a needless mess.
 
#312 ·
I don't know the first thing about the vanos, ...
Well then you'd better do some reading here: http://www.beisansystems.com/

A part number would be somewhat helpful don't you think? But I have the feeling the "metal rings" you have are the VANOS oil line crush washers.

#17 on this diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BS53&mospid=47707&btnr=11_2170&hg=11&fg=15

Unless you remove the VANOS oil line feed, these aren't necessary. And it isn't necessary to remove the VANOS oil line feed to replace the Valve Cover Gasket.

BUT... you might want to keep them on hand for when you find out you need to replace the oil filter housing gasket (where the housing attaches to the engine).
 
#324 ·
My friend's a BMW Master Tech at a local dealer. They use RTV ....
Yeah. I mean no doubt, but when I hear this I think... blue RTV? the black RTV? Red RTV? sensor safe RTV? Rubber safe RTV? BMW RTV? Some orange stuff I've never heard of before? RTV for steel? RTV for aluminum? RTV for magnesium? Where is the MSDS sheet? What are the temperature specs?

Engineering's in the details, which is why I posted a link to the actual product from the mfg.'s site.

Schnell
 
#327 ·
Simmer down, y'all. You guys are seriously splitting hairs.

-BMW has their procedure of putting Drei Bond 1209 in a thin layer around the sharp edges around the end of the cams as shown here: http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/49

-If you are doing anything different, than it is entirely up to you what you choose, and also your own risk. If you want to use anything other than BMW's recommendation, you should do your own research to find what you deem "best."

-I'm personally not just a big fan of putting anything on gaskets, as I do not like the associated mess, nor have I had any problems with leaks. If you want a safe general purpose sealant, I highly recommend Loctite 598 Black RTV which will work for just about any automotive gasketing situation: https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/1C4CD3E8A695CF24882571870000D84D/$File/598HB-EN.pdf
 
#330 ·
-If you are doing anything different, than (sic) it is entirely up to you what you choose, and also your own risk. If you want to use anything other than BMW's recommendation,...
Oh Holy Crap. BMW engineering is German, not God Almighty (who at least didn't lose two wars you know). If they were so good to begin with why did BMW itself redesign the CCV system so cold weather wouldn't blow up their M54 engine?

My entire point is that the 10 year old BMW recommendation of Drei Bond 1209 is, well, 10 years old. A lot of research in sealants has occurred in that time which can be of great benefit to your car. And I vaguely recall this stuff no longer being available from BMW. Even your own post recommends a non-BMW product (Loctite) so what gives with the 'anything other than BMW at your own risk' hysteria? I think you're doing a grave disservice to the community running around like chicken little and flapping your arms like the Lost In Space Robot - "Warning Will Robinson, not approved by BMW."

Or is the BMW engineering god so good that Raj is Satan and we transgress in your eyes to use the besian seals in the VANOS unit? That stuff is most certainly Not recommended by BMW.

-I'm personally not just a big fan of putting anything on gaskets
And would that be rubber gaskets? Metal gaskets? Paper gaskets?

Hey, my wife gets 120 grand a year to split hairs, so somebody must think it's worthwhile.

I highly recommend Loctite 598 Black RTV which will work for just about any automotive gasketing situation:
But that's also the point - you're not making a gasket here, so the use of 598HB (in her words) "doesn't make sense." It's a Gasket Maker, not meant to be used for sealing other gaskets (even according to Loctite). All this will do is just make another rubber gasket under the rubber gasket you're already putting on. If you need to, I can drag a chemist into this to say whether it provides adequate adhesion to other rubber surfaces or not. Personally, who would want to wait 72 hours for this to cure for a VCG job?

And Henkel's a good company, so do you think they're splitting hairs by having more than one RTV product to be used on everything? 5020; 5040; 5045; 5060; 5140; 5145; 5210; 5211; 5362; 5366; 5367; oh go read the list yourself http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/search.asp?t=&Q_PROP7=0&Q_PROP18=499&Q_PROP22=0

Schnell

PS: Your link doesn't work by the way. It has a typo, so here's a working one: http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/598HB-EN.PDF

PPS: Interesting to note 598 doesn't show on the Loctite Consumer Product line website, only the Blue and Red.
 
#332 ·
Schnell,

Are you a little worked up for some reason? Or are you just trying to start a fight over RTV?

-BMW has credibility, that is why I recommend following their advice above all else on their products. I haven't shown anything to prove my credibility either, and that's why I still recommend BMW's procedure over mine, in addition to not wanting any liability. You haven't shown anything to prove your credibility either.

-The CCV has nothing to do with the valve cover gasket, so that information is null.

-If you want to me elaborate on my preference to not adding anything to gaskets, I don't like to put anything on paper, rubber, or metal gaskets most of the time, and this is usually the manufacturer's suggested procedure. On some cases, like on my BMW M54 I chose not to use any additional product on the valve cover gasket. In the case of my Mercedes-Benz M102 I chose to use an RTV sealant on the normally bare seal between the iron block and the aluminum timing cover. I'm not really sure why your wife's salary needed to be involved in this conversation?

-I gave a recommendation for a good general purpose gasket maker, that is all, and you can reread what I wrote if you don't believe me. I never said to put it on a gasket, but you argue not to put it on a gasket, for the same reasons I personally don't like to put it on a gasket but did not state. Similarly, I never said anything even implying it should be used for all situations and that every other Loctite formulation is unnecessary.

-Lastly, my link doesn't have a typo, it simply wasn't automatically hyperlinked by the forum.
 
#333 ·
My car came with some form of RTV from the factory. This is certain. Im the only owner and when I changed my VCG for the first time there was clearly evidence of some form of clear-like RTV. Whether it is the elusive Drei-bond or something else, BMW absolutely applies RTV at the factory.
 
#346 ·
You have two options, both with their benefits. In both cases, make sure to tighten everything together to evenly compress the gasket.

-Either you tighten by hand, and you will feel the rubber compress, and then at a certain point, it will become much harder to turn when the nut bottoms out. Stop there.

-Or you will need a very low value torque wrench that goes down to 9 or 10 newton meters.
 
#350 ·
Guys,

Just completed a gasket change on my 2002 330Cic with 166000 miles.
Ordered the gasket from Bavarian auto. The forum provided excellent guidance.

After bolting it all together, have a leak at the rear bolt. I've tightened it as much as I dare.. More than the other dry bolts... I'm at a loss for the reason for the leak.

Interesting point. As you all know, the gasket slides into a slot in the valve cover. When I inserted the replacement gasket into the slot, the rubber was a little (3mm) taller than the slot. This led to the gasket not sitting against the flat portion of the valve cover. Is this normal? I hope you can picture what I'm trying to describe. I'm wondering if this could be the cause of the leak.

I've read some guys had leaks from other than genuine BMW parts.
What do you all think... Whats my next move?
Thanks Dan
 
#352 ·
Hi all, quick question: My valve cover gasket just started leaking in my 06 330ci ZHP (84k mi), and I've heard that not only is this from a deteriorating gasket, but also from a malfunctioning crankcase ventilation valve, which makes the head un-breathable and results in high pressure, blowing out the valve cover gasket. I've dug around a little and BavAuto suggests popping out the crankcase vent hose on the head and if there's white sludge, and if so, then the CVV should be replaced. What i'm wondering though, is if there's any other signs that should determine if the CVV is malfunctioning? should all just be replaced? seems like its also good measure to change the VANOS seals since the valve cover is off too; but is this going overboard? seems like I either spend 50 bucks for just the gasket, or $330 for parts that i'm not even sure I should replace. On the other hand, I don't want to be doing all this again if the VANOS seals do end up going in a couple years, and again if the CVV is broken and I end up blowing another gasket again. Any insight would be helpful! thanks!
 
#353 ·
#354 ·
Thanks for the link. I ordered new VANOS seals last week when ordering a new CCV and valve cover gasket. My car definitely has been idling like **** in these cold new england mornings and night. Hopefully this will address the issue, if not then its onto a DISA rebuild kit from German Auto solutions!
 
#356 ·
dinner break, need a tech assist…

check out the attached, missing gasket… hard as plastic, some pieces broke off during cover removal.
Metal


Two pieces fell out of reach down the circled hole, i'm assuming drain to the sump?

a third dropped next to the spring (in shadow, but arrow pointing to it)
Auto part Metal Brass Engine Gear


should i be concerned? can't do much about it and plan to start buttoning everything up…

please advise.

overall, looks pretty clean, no?
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part
 
#358 ·
well, those pieces that went down the hole were out of reach, others were found some removed some not…

runs fine… gotta figure that stuff may break off during normal op with how brittle it had become…

so no issues with the work done, no SES for nearly 80 miles :woot:, then Peake Table 19 Code 44 reappeared :censor:. I had hoped this code was a result of the quick disconnect not being fully engaged, which I found during disassembly.

gonna TS the valve, but I'm thinking it too will have to be replaced.

thank you thank you for this DIY! :clap:
 
#359 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,

Once again this forum has proved fantastic.
Just did the VCG and Oil/Plugs/Filters on my 02 330ci Coupe M54.

One thing i noticed when i did the VCG was the condition of the engine didn't seem that great condition internally.

I've attached photos below.

The Vanos area is Black and Dark brown. I have not seen any others look like this?? It looks really strange.
Is this something to be concerned about?

There was also a build up of sludge on the plastic black housing with loose grit on it.
I left it as it was as i didn't want to dis-lodge anything and intern have loose grit flying in the engine.

Motor & car has 140,000 kms
Apart from a rough cold start, it drives perfect now.

Can anyone shed anymore light in reference to my pictures?

Thank you.
 

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#360 ·
First of all, thanks to the OP--old thread BUT good thread!

I have a 2004 325ci @ 122,000 miles and thought it would be a good idea to finally do this DIY because of the smell of burnt oil (should of done this sooner).

The VCG was harden solid plastic--so, if you haven't done this DIY in my opinion the sooner the better to prevent from having to deal with the harden VCG gasket.

During the DIY, had to use a blanket to prevent pieces from falling into the engine and carefully remove the fused gasket from the mating surfaces. Here are some PIX:





Once again...thanks OP...!
 
#362 ·
Vcg diy

Thanks to everyone in the forum for providing so much detail on this DIY.

I just replaced mine on my 2003 e46 with 112,000 miles. The outer gasket was barely flexible and was showing signs of leaking around the edges. The inner (spark plug) gaskets were brittle plastic. Overall, this DIY post made it very easy and took me about 2 hours to sort through.

Here is a pic of my engine at 112,000.
 

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