I went to the Dealership for the first time after purchasing my vehicle used about 7.5k miles ago. (I would have gone sooner but haven't gotten the chance as it is so far away from where I live).
I got a courtesy check and these are the problems that were listed,
Cylinder Head Cover Gaskets
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Both Outer CV Boots (Cracked)
Brake Pads and Rotors on the front
Brake Fluid
Drive Belts
With the first three and Drive BeltsI'm just going to have the dealership do what they have to do to replace them.
With the Brake Fluid I was thinking about using either Motul Brake Fluid; the brake pads and rotors I was looking at Textar or Akebono pads and Stoptech Rotors.
I also noticed that the labor seems to be the most of the cost to have them replaced, I want to have them replaced by someone very trustworthy and preferably BMW Certified that isn't over the top expensive, anyone know of any trustworthy places that could be in Wisconsin? If not I'll let the dealership do their thing.
I'm very open to opinions, let me know different suggestions.
I went to the Dealership for the first time after purchasing my vehicle used about 7.5k miles ago. (I would have gone sooner but haven't gotten the chance as it is so far away from where I live).
I got a courtesy check and these are the problems that were listed,
Cylinder Head Cover Gaskets Why in the world do they want to change the head gasket??? By this do you mean the valve cover gasket? If yes, DIY, it's easy.
Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY, it's easy
Both Outer CV Boots (Cracked) Indy shop to get it done, DIY isn't hard but is time consuming the first time.
Brake Pads and Rotors on the front DIY, it's really really easy.
Brake Fluid DIY, this is the easiest yet. Buy a brake bleed kit and have at it.
Drive Belts DIY, if you can't do this, return the car.
With the first three and Drive BeltsI'm just going to have the dealership do what they have to do to replace them.
With the Brake Fluid I was thinking about using either Motul Brake Fluid; the brake pads and rotors I was looking at Textar or Akebono pads and Stoptech Rotors.
I'm very open to opinions, let me know different suggestions.
See above. Buy a set of tools if you don't already have one and get to work. It's not hard, read some DIYs, ask some questions, and have some fun (and beer). Welcome to the joys of owning an older BMW.
I think any DOT4 brake fluid is fine, Motul is a good brand. FWIW, I use ATE Blue. I'd do BMW rotors and Textar pads.
Do NOT take your car to the dealership unless there is recall work to do. They WILL rip you off in every way possible. Find a trusted indy shop (check the WI forum in the regional section for references) and go that route.
Alright thank you very much, a couple more questions if you don't mind. The brake fluid I was planning on using is DOT 5.1, would that be better or worse as it's asking for DOT 4? Also what exactly is an Indy? Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but I try to be inquisitive to learn heh. Also I have an oil leak that's why they have the Head Gasket up there.
Absolutely stick with DOT 4. Do not substitute Dot 5.1. Stick with OE fluid or ATE, no reason for any thing else.
Sounds like the dealer is milking you. Find the oil leak yourself, replace one at a time, and take your time. It is a journey learning to do this stuff for yourself, so don't bite it all off at once.
There's the Cylinder Head Cover Gaskests for $462.30 ($351.40 for labor)
Rubber Seal: 118524 x12 for $15.60
With
Set of Profile Gaskets: 118522 for $56.19
Then there is the Oil Filter Housing Gasket for $662.73 ($572.10 for labor)
Gasket:119500 for $6.41
Gasket Ring:329500 x4 for @2.92
Oil Pipe:111060 for $76.74
It doesn't state in any of the pages they gave me about their reasoning for wanting to replace the Cylinder Head Cover Gaskets but if I remember right when I went so he could show me what all he was looking at he showed me the oil leak on the top of the Engine looking down (Right next to the Power Steering and Air Filter Housing) with a flashlight and I'm fairly sure that that is where he had mentioned it in the showing.
Also I was looking in the WI forum for a Indy but when I try to go to the Forum it brings me to the list of Members who are in WI
$1750-$2500 for an Indy to do it, depending on if you buy axles and which ones. I could bang it all out in a weekend for less than $450 in parts (plus axles or cv boots).
Heh seems a little misleading for it to say Head Cover Gasket instead of Valve Cover, sorry about that;
DIY sounds good I guess, I kind of figured it was a ripoff but I actually like the ease in knowing that it was done correctly, I'll just have to be babysat whilst I work on it by a friend heh.
Alright, so I'm going to do this one part at a time. I'm thinking of starting with the CV Boots, where would I find a reliable boot kit (for both boots) for my car?
I used to use ATE Super Blue in street cars until I discovered ATE 200.. it has the same wet boiling point and seeming same fluid without the blue dye. The dye is insidius and stains your mitivac and everything else it touches.
I was just thinking, should I just do the Rotors and Brakes at the same time as the CV Boots as I'm going to have to go through the Rotors to get to the CV Boot? (Or am I skimming through this one article and misunderstanding it?) Was also wondering if I should also replace the calipers since I'm replacing the Rotors and Brake pads?
Should I do the Drive belts at the same time I do the valve cover?
Brakes, axles, vcg, and belts are all separate jobs. Brakes take 5 minutes each when the wheels are off for the axle job. Belts are cake on this car too. A lot of people are doing vanos seals with the vcg/plugs.
Calipers are probably ok unless leaking or seized
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