E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY w/ some pics

364K views 248 replies 124 participants last post by  dirty vert 
#1 · (Edited)
I just replaced the $6 gasket recently and decided to take a few pics. This is my first time doing the job and it was fairly easy. My car was leaking oil about 1 quart every 2500 miles.

1. drive car on ramps or put on jack stands.

2. remove bottom engine splash shield

3. remove air filter box and remove the 2 nuts holding up the power steering reservoir. Put it to the side.

4. Remove fan and fan shroud

5. remove upper radiator hose (optional step, it just help clear up some room)

6. remove the alternator belt.

7. disconnect the negative of the battery first before messing with the alternator. (added by SSM1991)

remove alternator at these locations. I think the 2 bolts are 13mm. pull the electrical connector and unscrew the red battery terminal (13mm). Also remove the lower air 3 inch duct.



8. with the alternator out, its time to remove the 6 bolts (13mm) that holding the oil filter housing to the engine. Important: Remember the locations of each bolt because they're different lengths. It will help alot when it's time to re-install the housing. Also remove the oil line at the top near the radiator hose and remove the electrical connector to the oil housing.





9. Pull the housing away from the engine. as you can see there are small collections of oil nearby. I didn't completely removed the housing, I just pull it off enough to remove the gasket.



10. picture of gasket that's harden and brittle. it's cracking in a few spots.



11. replace with new gasket and reverse all steps to finish.

12. top off coolant and some oil. Oil doesn't really leak out at all when you pull the housing off.
 
See less See more
5
#50 ·
VERY Rough cold idle

Over the weekend I replaced the oil filter housing gasket, vanos tube,both belts, fan clutch, spark plugs and valve cover gasket - whew! Fired right up - no leaks, however after starting the car started to idle very badly - RPM's up and down - almost stalling. Under road conditions the car runs fine, at a stop sign the engine idle is rough. After the car warms up the idle smooths. I pulled the plugs - no signs of fouling, with the engine running (and warmed up - and ) I dissconnected each of the "coil connectors" to the plugs one at a time to see if one of them wasn't firing. Effect was same on each plug - I minor decrease in idle speed - my conlclusion - ignitition system is okay. I suspect I dissconnected "something" related to cold start and forgot to reconnect it - ANY IDEAS OUT THERE?
 
#52 ·
doh

I just don't want to believe it - but I think you're right - I'll do the test tomorrow but I oredered the repair kit (beisan systems) today. I was trying to understand WHY it started happening after all the repairs I made. The only thing I can think of is that there is some relationship to the fact that I changed the Vanos line (it was leaking)?

Another opinion needed - since I JUST changed the valve cover gasket over the weekend - I'm assuming that I don't need to REPLACE it when I do the Vanos repair since the rubber is nice and soft right now. Thoughts?
 
#62 · (Edited)
I did this a few weeks back, and now I have to Re-Do this job, as it is still leaking. Something is not sealing itself properly.
After taking my car to JCL Automotive, they inspected my car (did not do full clean, but oil is showing in that popular spot) and I agree with them that it is safe to assume that it is still leaking from the housing gasket. Here is what they taught me.

What I learned (2001 325i Automatic)
- Best to remove the Vanos line completely from both the front and back (I only removed it from the front, made for a PITA to try reinstalling the housing. I wrestled with it so much that this step may be the reason the gasket is not properly sealing)
- Best to remove the PS pump (I Did not do this either, it makes for a battle to take out old gasket and put in the new one)
- Use a little RTV Sealant on the new gasket to keep it in the filter housing when re-installing with new gasket in place. (since I did battle to get the housing back in, they said my gasket may also have slipped out of place, RTV sealant, will prevent that from happening)
- Torque down bolts properly (I did not use a torque wrench, so there is a Small chance this could be the issue as well)
 
#66 ·
"Also remove the oil line at the top near the radiator hose and remove the electrical connector to the oil housing. " Does anyone have pic for "electrical connector to the oil housing"? So basically there are 3 electrical connectors thats need to be removed (MAF, Electrical connector to the oil housing and electrical connection for alternator)?

I check the location of the VANOS oil line, and how exactly can I reach to the back nut? Which step do I need to do first so that I can have access to the back nut?

Thanks.
 
#67 ·
There are two OFH connections for the pressure switch & the temperature switch in addition to the alternator and battery. There's no need to disconnect the MAF. After you remove the alternator, there is plenty of room to get to the rear VANOS line bolt.

Here is what I used based instructions from the TIS and DIYs from this site:
(1) Remove air intake, fan shroud, fan clutch, drive belts, & underbody plate.
(2) Remove oil filter cover, let oil flow out of housing back into pan, & retighten.
(3) Remove alternator
• Switch off ignition
• Disconnect (-) battery terminal, cover, & secure.
• Remove power steering fluid reservoir bolts & tie out of the way.
• Remove 3 power steering pump bolts (OFH & block bottom) (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
• Remove plastic air hose connection at rear of alternator.
• Unlock & remove plug connection & nut for (+) terminal (B+ 13Nm/10ft-lb.)
• Release bolt & remove idler pulley (70Nm /44ft-lb.)
• Remove lower mounting bolt & lift out alternator.
• Install new voltage regulator (optional).
(4) Remove OFH plugs for pressure switch (lower) & temperature switch (upper).
(5) Disconnect VANOS oil pressure line at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(6) Unfasten 6 OFH bolts (22Nm /16ft-lb.) and remove OFH.
(7) Remove OFH internal gasket & check dowel sleeves for damage & positioning.
(8) Clean up engine.
(9) Install new OFH internal gasket & secure OFH to block (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
(10) Reconnect VANOS oil line w/ crush washers at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(11) Connect oil pressure switch & oil temperature switch to OFH inputs.
(12) Install alternator & reattach electrical connections
(13) Reconnect vent hose to alternator.
(14) Install drive belts, fan clutch, fan shroud, underbody plate, & air intake.
(15) Reconnect (-) battery terminal (5 ± 1 Nm).
 
#68 · (Edited)
There are two OFH connections for the pressure switch & the temperature switch in addition to the alternator and battery. There's no need to disconnect the MAF. After you remove the alternator, there is plenty of room to get to the rear VANOS line bolt.

Here is what I used based instructions from the TIS and DIYs from this site:
(1) Remove air intake, fan shroud, fan clutch, drive belts, & underbody plate.
(2) Remove oil filter cover, let oil flow out of housing back into pan, & retighten.
(3) Remove alternator
***8226; Switch off ignition
***8226; Disconnect (-) battery terminal, cover, & secure.
***8226; Remove power steering fluid reservoir bolts & tie out of the way.
***8226; Remove 3 power steering pump bolts (OFH & block bottom) (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
***8226; Remove plastic air hose connection at rear of alternator.
***8226; Unlock & remove plug connection & nut for (+) terminal (B+ 13Nm/10ft-lb.)
***8226; Release bolt & remove idler pulley (70Nm /44ft-lb.)
***8226; Remove lower mounting bolt & lift out alternator.
***8226; Install new voltage regulator (optional).
(4) Remove OFH plugs for pressure switch (lower) & temperature switch (upper).
(5) Disconnect VANOS oil pressure line at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(6) Unfasten 6 OFH bolts (22Nm /16ft-lb.) and remove OFH.
(7) Remove OFH internal gasket & check dowel sleeves for damage & positioning.
(8) Clean up engine.
(9) Install new OFH internal gasket & secure OFH to block (22Nm /16ft-lb.)
(10) Reconnect VANOS oil line w/ crush washers at banjo bolt (32Nm /24ft-lb.).
(11) Connect oil pressure switch & oil temperature switch to OFH inputs.
(12) Install alternator & reattach electrical connections
(13) Reconnect vent hose to alternator.
(14) Install drive belts, fan clutch, fan shroud, underbody plate, & air intake.
(15) Reconnect (-) battery terminal (5 ± 1 Nm).
Thank you for that.
 
#72 ·
No, however do have a rag underneath the housing as you pull of the oil filter housing. 1 - 2 oz may drip onto the rag. Do wait an hour or so after running the engine before pulling off the housing. Also, remove the oil filter cap and remove the oil filter to reduce oil drippings.
 
#73 ·
I performed this DIY around june. Now I have a new oil leak. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and degreaser. There is some oil in the waffle part on the side of the engine, and some on the hoses and it is collecting and dripping from the oil pan. Thoughts on places to check.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top