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The best way to lift your E46 using a jack and jackstands

69K views 53 replies 33 participants last post by  BDUB328I 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a tutorial on how to lift your E46 safely and securely. Never perform any work or lift your vehicle without reading your vehicle's owner's manual first. Always use quality jacks, jackstands, and other miscellaneous equipment and ensure it is in fully functioning order before proceeding.

Always follow the directions of the manufacturer of the equipment you are using.

Follow these directions at your own discretion according to your comfort and/or skill level.

I am not responsible for any damages to people or property.

Warning: Jacks should only be used to lift a vehicle, not support it for any extended amount of time. Never get under a vehicle supported by only a jack.

For extra security, place your wheels under rigid body sections of the vehicle.

Always work on level ground.

Okay so basically if your E46 has a front reinforcement plate as follows:



You can follow my method of supporting the vehicle safely on four jackstands and a high quality low-profile jack. I got mine from Harbor Freight.

The picture explains it all, but basically you are lifting the side-rear high enough to get a jackstand under the front-side jackpad you are lifting. Repeat on the other side. Then lift the vehicle by the rear subframe (never the aluminum support) and then place jackstands under the rear-side jack pads.

You will then have a jackstand under each jacking point. Lowering the car is reversed process.

The following photo is of an E46 M3 convertible. Same concept applies to this photo for your non-M cars.

E46 M3s and earlier non-Ms have a front-central jacking point on the front subframe reinforcement. That can be used in a similar manner as the rear subframe lift point.

Good luck and again, use common sense and safety!




To clarify: USE JACKPADS AND REAR SUBFRAME TO LIFT VEHICLE ONLY. DO NOT USE "FRAME RAILS," OR THE FRONT ALUMINUM REINFORCEMENT PLATE FOR NON-M VEHICLES. THE JACKPAD LIFT POINTS ARE REINFORCED PARTICULARLY FOR LIFTING. I RECOMMEND TO HAVE A FRIEND WATCH THE JACKSTAND AS YOU LOWER THE VEHICLE BACK DOWN TO ENSURE IT DOESN'T SLIDE OFF.
 

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#16 ·
Lol I've seen plenty of reputable shops use HF jacks, I'm gonna get one, and it won't see near the abuse. The idea is to have it lift temporarily while you position jack stands....I don't trust any jack with me under it no matter the brand. Besides generally a jack either works or it doesn't.
 
#6 ·
My friend's has had his HF aluminum jack for around 10 years and it's been through heavy use. Done a few engine/trans swaps. I've had mine for three years. It's been a trooper. What low profile jacks would you recommend that's decently priced? Jacks are only used for lifting, so not sure why it has to be from Snap-On, unless you're a mechanic for a living.
 
#9 ·
HF jacks are fine; the pre-Rapid-Pump models are better, though. I think you can still get that one at Northern.

I do disagree with this method of jacking the car up, as outlined in the other thread. Much safer to use the front jack point than to jack one side at a time, imo.
 
#23 ·
I do disagree with this method of jacking the car up, as outlined in the other thread. Much safer to use the front jack point than to jack one side at a time, imo.
Sure, but many E46s (like mine) do not have a front jacking point. I've been using this method for years.

That said you do need to be very very careful using this method as there is more of a twisting force on the car so you need to gently lower the car onto the jack stand. I always stop just as it touches and double check that everything is ok before lowering the weight of the car on the stand.
 
#12 ·
The only problem with the method in the original post is that you can only jack the car up that high. I like to lift the car as high as (safely) possible on the jack stands for major work. So, to put the front on the jack stands I have to use either the "button" of the reinforcement plate or the "frame rails". Mostly the "button"...

And HF low profile jack is great! 23" (height range!)

But I think the above method will work fine for putting the car on the jack stands on their lowest setting.
 
#18 ·
I agree with Mango that you should only lift the car from those 5 points he listed, but I do have a question. When you lift the car up from the rear using a floor jack at one of the side factory jacking points so you can place a jack stand under one of the front side jacking points, I'm assuming you have to jack the car up pretty high for this? Will there be enough clearance to place a jack stand under the front side jack point and be able to get the car off the ground a reasonable amount with placing the front jack stand?
 
#26 · (Edited)
I use railroad tie sections and blocks sometimes if lifting high.(lets me set car down in between height of my 9 ton jackstand and the little dinkers). I cant lift full stroke with shop floor jack or will bust off jack pad and punch through side of car. I lift in several steps keeping car fairly level at all times so there is room for jack under opposite side of car and not angled too much. I like the railroad ties better on high lifts cause iffff car happens to fall you can set block really close and they wont tip or slip like stands could if up against ca or ta for example. Sorry cant say exactly where and the steps today. Havent been under in awhile. Good write up though for just gettin tires off ground
 
#30 ·
I'm a little confused, every write up I've seen on jacking up the car is different. I've always used the center jack pad in the front (I have an XI) then place two jack stands on the side rubber jack pads. Then jack from the rear diff cover, then place jack stands on the rear side jack pads. Is this okay?
 
#32 ·
I got a Harbor Freight low profile jack and this would not lift it high enough for me to get the jacks on the jack points. But I worked out a solution. I built a box frame using 4x4's that I cut 30" long. 4x4's are wider than the wheels on the the jack so I spaced the 4x4's so they were centered on each wheel. Then I took some 1x6's and cut them to length so they formed a box with a lip around the 4x4's. The length of the 4x4's allowed movement of the jack as it was raising the car and the 1x6 boards prevents the jack from rolling off. I used this after I put the car up on Rhino Ramps. I used a nail gun to secure the boards then went back and screwed it all together.
 
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