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Turbo 330Ci ZHP Project

44K views 95 replies 32 participants last post by  NIVO 
#1 · (Edited)
Just posting my project start thread.
Will be taring apart the car soon.

Most of the info so far is on the site.
www.e46turbo330ci.com

Another DIY turbo Project... Inspired by the guys who have done it themselves on this forum.:thumbsup:

I will be using the Comp Turbo CT4-6265 3BB, it is an Oil-Less turbo with only Coolant lines going to it.

I want to see what I can push the stock engine to then I will rebuild the engine or just buy another block and do it over the next year.

Done with the SRT-4 for now so my car is next... then the SAAB Aero.

Nivo

Edit: forgot to mention that I will be going 3" exhaust with a Varex variable muffler. Waiting for the muffler to arrive from Australia.
 

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#4 ·
most of it should work on the 325Ci like yours minus the software tuning. But everything else should be applicable to the M54B25.

As always if anyone worries about warranty or if it is street legal then the warning is:

These modifications are for off road use only.

WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in.
 
#7 ·
WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in.
:lmao: This is sig worthy. LoL

Wow your 325 is making good power! :thumbsup:
More non-M cars need to be turbocharged, either DIY or NickG's kit. :woot:
^^^ Totally agree. You can do TT kit. 325whp out the door. And that's just stage1. Lol It's cool man I would like build my own turbo kit one day. Just not on such a complicated system. :thumbsup:
 
#5 ·
Wow your 325 is making good power! :thumbsup:

More non-M cars need to be turbocharged, either DIY or NickG's kit. :woot:
 
#8 ·
i was just looking at those oilless turbos today, how much do they cost ?

also, props on doing it yourself.
 
#9 · (Edited)
A CT2-6262 with oil-less center at MAP is $1313
http://www.maperformance.com/comp-turbo-ct2-6262-turbocharger-ct2-6262.html

or through this Ebay store: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/compturbo/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562

Maybe through Joe at comp turbo they would be cheaper if you mention my name and site. ;)

He is willing to Support certain groups if the volume and demand is there.:thumbup:

Turbocharging is not new to me, have done it many times over as my technical background is Automotive technology, Diagnostics, Electronics and Performance from years ago(schooling). I also worked at a Dyno shop here for a few years and done Vipers, Corvettes, Mustangs 350Z's and a whole lot more.

I am a Nissan guy at heart as I love my Z cars(my shiro attached) but I am a car enthusiast first and love anything unique and fun to do myself. Cars have become my hobby and I don't make a living working on them.

Hardest challenges to me were ferrari and some Porsche, things are packed in there.

If i'm In NJ I will PM you or something, We head out to the track every year. This year we are running our SRT-4 that I just finished.
 

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#10 ·
I noticed you are posting information about your own site and its sponsors.

As your own personal build great, and lets just keep it that way as they are not sponsors here as I would want you to tread safely without stepping on toes.


what are you using to tune your turbo?
 
#11 ·
This is the reason why I held back on posting my own DIY venture on this site. But I looked and didn't see any Turbocharger Companies on here. Especially a direct Manufacturer.

I don't think I am stepping on toes, I am just helping others help themselves on taking on their own projects by posting what's needed. It is what I do on every forum I am on or belong to.

I thought long before posting (Have worked for Autoguide forums as Admin).
So I know how the Business runs/works.
 
#15 ·
My main objective is doing it myself for this years project. Doing this many times over I know a ballpark of overall costs of turbocharging. But to me it is not about saving the dollars as it is about putting the whole thing together from scratch, yeah I could have gone through NickG or Active to boost my car but that would take my fun away.

On the BMWs it's not the Turbo kit that is hard to do but the tuning of the Fuel/Timing etc... Using the Siemens adaptive ECU it is quite fast which is a good thing because it can be used to the tune of some good wheel horsepower. Hell, you can turbo the car and use the stock injectors (obviously the car would be lean under the pressurized load), but then that would not make sense as you turbo it to make power and with stock injectors you can run lean, heat up the engine and blow things up. Which leads us to the need of tuning.

There are many ways to tune the MS43 for relatively little money yourself as long as you have an understanding of tuning and coding/hex/how an engine works(hakentt has shown this) but when it gets to the MS45 it has to be bench flashed, but some have even used the OBD plug to flash it. Tuning software is not cheap and geared towards the Tuning shops which costs in excess of $5000+.
 
#16 ·
Looks like first week of May I might have time to turbo this car finally.

We will see how it goes:excited::thumbup:
 
#18 ·
We have 80mm and 67mm billet oil-less comp turbos going on three cars at the moment. I am excited to get rid of our usual oil scavenge pump setup. We can get anyone pricing on Comp Turbos as well, and we are a forum sponsor:)

What engine management are you planning on running?
 
#19 ·
sweet thanks Mike, I didn't want to post too much as I feared of admins thinking i was trying to sell Comp Turbos.
I chose this turbo just for that one reason you mentioned. no need to add complications with scavenge pumps or tapping oil pans, save time, drilling and headaches.


currently still thinking on the tuning will not make up my mind until the last minute as we have quite a few cars to use if i still do not have a solution.
 
#21 ·
I have been working on the SRT-4 to run it this summer at the strip.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I haven't given up. Still going to do it all.:woot:

Also, while I am at it I should add altezza tail lights, a skull shift knob, fuzzy dice and interior delete.
 
#26 ·
for the tuning have you looked into emanage? im building a similiar setup to yours, mines not zhp tho just 330ci. im searching for a tuning setup. ive used your website as a guide its been really helpful:bow::thumbup:. btw what part of jersey are you from? im in south jersey i got some friends that are into nissans too, civics and hondas of course lol and some srt-4s.
 
#27 ·
Still working on MS45 coding with a buddy, gonna take a while just as it did for Nick.

I have Unichip Q+, Much better then the emanage for the BMW. Some have failed with it, but with like any tool...it's how you use it:rofl: If you want full control of the Car go with the ProEFI PNP stand alone...

I have to write the settings of it and how to install it (Unichip Q+) and I will put the info on the site.

In order to control the injectors you will have to directly control them as you don't want to take away maf voltage to lower pulse width. you need the injector driver module.

I am actually in Worcester, Mass not Jersey but when I go there it's to hit up the track.
 
#30 ·
Luckily for us the srt project (750hp turbo, built engine) is inspected, running and surprisingly passed emissions scanning. guy at the inspection was trying to clear up the car by revving it a bit, he said something is wrong with the car as it is idling funny.

I told him it has some cams for a top end power band, basically really large cams and big injectors.

Now I can focus more on the BMW and SAAB Aero.:clap::woot:
 
#39 ·
My goal is to help the community, I am new as in the past year but not new to cars. I hope I will be able to help others with projects like these.

I gain nothing by doing so...:bawling: lolol
 
#41 · (Edited)
added my tires, wheels and tint along with head unit.
Not sure if LSD is next or not.
 

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#42 · (Edited)
Got the unichip in.







Features


  • Fits piggy-back style to existing electronic fuel injection systems & puts engine control back into the hands of the tuner .Renders an otherwise untuneable Engine Management System , tuneable to the extent of what Standalone systems provide & even beyond that.
  • No opening of ECU’s or burning of chips.
  • Supports just about every modern crank style . Updateable firmware means that as new crank styles are released by manufacturers the Unichip is easily upgraded to stay in touch with technology
  • The Unichip has 5 map sets available . Every chip can therefore be tuned with up to 5 completely different maps . For example : Map1 can be used for regular fuel ; Map 2 for a 50/50 mix of Gasoline & an Alternative Fuel ; Map3 for 100% Alternative Fuel etc.
  • Switching between maps is accomplished in 3 different ways : easiest & simplest way is via a 5-way switch (available from Unichip) which can be installed inside the car . Then there’s a Bluetooth switch (available from Unichip) which communicates with most modern cellphones . Our most popular map switching method is via our Flux Power display .
  • Manipulate 5(Unichip Q+) 0-5volt inputs.
  • Drive extra fuel injectors
  • Drive water injection
  • Drive water/methanol injection
  • Activate water mist spray for intercoolers
  • Manipulate intake manifold flaps
  • Manipulate variable cam-timing
  • Manipulate timing advance & retard (this is what the other guys wish they could do). Retard timing in one map , flick a switch & the next map speeds it up.REAL-TIME TUNING MEANS A TUNER CAN MAKE CHANGES TO TIMING & FUELING SETTINGS WHILE RUNNING A CAR ON A DYNO & OBSERVE THE RESULTS!!!
  • Manipulate air-to-fuel ratio mixtures . Whether you’re manipulating a 0-5Volt input from a MAP sensor or a frequency from a MAF , the Unichip does it all.
  • Manipulate oxygen sensor voltages . Want to clamp that 0-5Volt signal ? No problem.
  • Manipulate drive-by-wire throttles. Add-on “throttle-boosters” now available to speed up those lethargic throttles!
  • Drive extra solenoids (for gas or liquid introduction)
  • Activate radiator fan
  • Control Nitrous injection
  • Control turbo boost
  • Control a shift light (or a pilot light which lets you know that your alternative fuel is now powering the engine).
  • Install & manipulate launch control
  • Datalogging feature
  • Fit Flux Power Display easily when installing a Unichip hardwire style to a car’s ECU or to a car’s ECU via one of our blanklooms or via a Unichip Plug ‘n Play kit .
 
#45 ·
Very interesting product choice. I actually spoke with Tony about the product and what it offers. I'm very interested to know the out come on how well you are able to control the motor with this product. Keep us posted with the progress once you start the install. ie. time take for install, ease of tuning x size injectors, timing control, idle control, fueling, maf/map, O2 sensors, etc...
Thanks
Rito
 
#46 ·
I have the wastegate which I might use on another project or just keep it for this one(that's from ebay and have used them with success), the intercooler piping is from ebay too and so is the manifold which is a copy of the turbonetics, treadstone. I never had an issue with some ebay parts. If you had done it before and chosen correctly you would be in my shoes too. Over the years I have modified many many cars at the shop and at my house. I know what ebay parts work and what parts are junk.

In the end all will be written about. I am kind of doing a service to the community being a guinea pig as others before me have been, Gurov, Jimmy, Ritos, 95blkmax, bluejeansonfire <---- those guys and some others have broken the ground on M54 modifying...

I have seen your posts inquiring about parts and info for your own build of your 325:read:... and also seen your questions on how superchargers work:tsk:, I know how they work and have installed many centrifugal and twin screw roots blowers on cars from 350Z's to mustangs to vipers. So before coming on and bringing on the sarcasm....:rolleyes:

you don't need to get name brand parts for them to work, unless you are about bragging to buddies about brand X.

So if you have some better ideas and suggestions about my build then post them here. if you are doing all your turbocharging yourself at home with your own welder, tools and random parts to make your own car turbo then I would love to see your build thread too as we can feed the community and each other.

I am sure when I build my own motor at home I will post some pics of the progress and I am sure I will also be asking the pioneers of M54 engine tear down like PEI330CI some questions... it's all about helping each other and not knocking each other down.:idea:
 
#54 · (Edited)
RoadRally.net motor mount to fit the Manifold and the Non M E46 should be here any day now. Could it be? no more modifying the E36 TRM motor mount to fit the E46 non m?

Also, let me stress this, If you live in a snowy salty climate region please make your wastegate relocation pipe out of 304 or 321 stainless steel. :read:
 
#55 ·
RoadRally.net motor mount to fit the Manifold and the Non M E46 should be here any day now. Could it be? no more modifying the E36 TRM motor mount to fit the E46 non m?

Also, let me stress this, If you live in a snowy salty climate region please make your wastegate relocation pipe out of 304 or 321 stainless steel. :read:
Doesnt matter what you make it out of as when you weld you damage the protection and it needs a new protection :(

Is the mount similiar to the one im running ?


Then ,no it still needs some modefying (engine will point slightly towards the driver otherwise)

Loking forward to some updates :D
 
#60 · (Edited)
I have forgotten to update this thread!

Unichip screen shots









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Decided it was nice enough and had time enough to fit this monster intercooler out front of the OEM ZHP bumper cover. And the new sibling.

Inter cooler has 3" in/out, core is 22" w x 12" high x 3.5" deep. Total width is 30"
I had to modify the 5mph aluminum bumper, Some cutting and grinding so I can sit it about 2" higher and 1.5" further back up top.

Teaser..


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Finally motivated and enough time to start working on the hardware stuff....

I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.


I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:


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intercooler shot with cover on before paint.


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Dastek has a schematic that it states it is for MS45 car (330Ci, 3.0L) but it is just based on MS43 wiring. I went out and got some info from Tony W. and got all the info needed to make a final schematic for basic engine controls like fuel and timing.

MS45 cars from 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

MS45 cars from 9/2002 to 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

Image Updated on 8/4/2012


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Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol


---------------------------

Been working on this for a long time adding to it and taking away. But this one is pretty close to almost what it should be for a non turbo to turbo M54B30 set up.

From my site:

I have been working on this for some time now looking over all aspects of how the components on the car works, looking at wiring schematics and component flow and so far this is what I have on Turbocharging the M54 successfully with little to no check engine lights and decent fuel trims. Also making sure some components are not pressurized under boost. In the Diagram we also changed/deleted the OEM CCV system to a more simplified DIY Air & Oil Separator using fast acting check valves.

The wires to the MAF will need to be extended.

The 2 Vacuum hoses that went to the "F" connector on the original OEM intake boot are now on the vacuum block. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator has an inline check valve so it does not see pressure and fuel pressure stays static.
The wastegate is ran off the vacuum block, do this if you have a low pressure wastegate spring under 9psi. This way you will not need to spend money on a boost controller.

The By-pass valve is also run off the vacuum block. DO NOT in any case vent the metered air into atmosphere, the car will bog, stall during shifts due to the rich condition when venting metered air out of the closed system. DO NOT use a Blow Off Valve.

On my diagram you see that I use a high flow catalytic converter, this is to keep things clean and keep the post cat Oxygen sensors happy and we comply with local / Federal laws. The cat is on 2 V-Bands so it is removable.

My wastegate is venting to atmosphere, back pressure is less and usually you get more efficiency this way out of the external gate. If you want it back into the exhaust, route it so the tube going back into the exhaust is at an angle and not "Teed" into it.
The fuel tank breather valve, also known as the purge valve needs a check valve so we don't send pressure to it. It needs to be under vacuum to pull fumes out of the tank not pressure.

This Diagram will change as I find more efficient ways to make things work. But this is the starting point of going turbo on a non turbo car.
The Air & Oil separator is a basic $30 ebay catch can which I will show you how to modify so it works correctly.



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This is the Ebay catch can, Air/Oil Separator set up I came up with to get rid of the OEM Crank Case Ventilation set up that fails.
I started out with a catch can from ebay. I chose a round unit anodized in black.

It had to have removable top and bottom so it can be modified.

I got mine from I'LoveILtacotaco ebay store.

It is $29.99 shipped and in black. They do have other color choices too.

The can itself is 3.125" in diameter x 5.750" tall. This is just the perfect size for what we are trying to accomplish here!
There are only (2) 3/8" NPT ports but I wanted to add another for a -10an to ½" NPT fitting.
To do so I needed a ¾" Drill bit which I had and a ½" NPT tap bit.
First I centered punched where I wanted the fitting
Next I used a small drill bit to start a pilot hole; afterwards I used a ¾" drill bit.

I still need to make the internal baffling and chamber separator, I will post that when I get to it.

On a Forced Induction car it is critical that we have vacuum in the crank case at all time and not pressurize it with boost. Engine will not survive long if you don't.

If you take a look at my diagram on the above post you will see that I am following it pretty much as I designed it.

This is what the set up looks like.






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You have seen it everywhere lately, show cars, performance cars, at the race tracks. Gearheads are using Vacuum manifold blocks and Push-to-connect fittings with Nylon tubing. Pretty much the Nylon will last forever, it takes well to heat and pressure.

It doesn't bubble/expand out like rubber and unlike your local auto parts store it can be had really cheap!

I searched a few places for my own lines for my project and found that http://www.automationdirect.com had really good prices on the Black Nylon lines.

On the site they have it for $17.00/100ft roll. That ends up being 17 cents; yes you read it right, 17 cents per foot! you will have enough to even make a Meth kit with it.

Automation Direct also has the Push-to-connect fittings in packs of 5 for cheap! The 5 pack costs $4.75 for smooth round 1/4" Male fittings. That comes out to be 95 cents each. Compare to other places selling at $3.49+ for each fitting.


1/4" O.D. Hose to 1/8" NPT Threads


1/4" Nylon Hose for use as Vacuum/Pressure lines

Here are a few Vacuum Manifolds you can get for under $25:

Northern Tool and Equipment



AeroDesigns JP - EBAY



Mettle Air - EBAY store


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Vanos rebuild was done
Here are a few pics when I rebuilt my Vanos. The rest of the pictures are in here

They should be in order from left to right.

these where in addition to the Beisan kit instructions.






OEM Spacer with 129k miles on it.




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More new items arrived
Here are a few new items...






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Turbo coolant lines Diagram
Since the Comp Turbo I have has water lines only for cooling the center cartridge we need to tap into the cars cooling system or build its own cooling system. I chose to use the cars existing cooling system.

This is the Coolant Radiator Hose Adapter:



Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Block port on the passengers side, it uses a M14 x 1.5 fitting to -6 an:


Block Coolant Drain plug is found here:


Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Heater Core Line going to the Coolant Expansion Tank, Treadstone sells the fitting for this:


Here is the Heater Hose Tee fitting from Treadstone Performance:


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Got word on my custom interior and the patterns are made for the E46 coupe. Right now they cut the leathers/alcantara and next is the stitching of all the pieces and let me tell you there is lots of them.

The car currently:
 
#62 · (Edited)
I am doing minor things first currently like the Modification of the ebay catch can to work as it should, the manifold with Techline coatings Turbo X coating.

Cut, size, weld exhaust. Intercooler pipe placement any any welding needed.
Run the vacuum lines. All which will have pics and measurements.

If I didn't have my site, if I wasn't furiously taking many pics I could have done this in a weeks time maybe less since I have everything I need at home tool wise.

I had other projects I had to finish before starting my coupes project. the past 2 weeks I have been moving quite fast though.

My seat covers will be in shortly so I need to do the whole interior thing....

I have patience on my projects so I can do it right the first time. I seem to spend more time making diagrams and writing things then working on the car but when it is turbocharged all the info will be on my site. :thumbup:
 
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