I have forgotten to update this thread!
Unichip screen shots
---------------------------
Decided it was nice enough and had time enough to fit this monster intercooler out front of the OEM ZHP bumper cover. And the new sibling.
Inter cooler has 3" in/out, core is 22" w x 12" high x 3.5" deep. Total width is 30"
I had to modify the 5mph aluminum bumper, Some cutting and grinding so I can sit it about 2" higher and 1.5" further back up top.
Teaser..
-----------------------------
Finally motivated and enough time to start working on the hardware stuff....
I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.
I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:
------------------------------
intercooler shot with cover on before paint.
------------------------------
Dastek has a schematic that it states it is for MS45 car (330Ci, 3.0L) but it is just based on MS43 wiring. I went out and got some info from Tony W. and got all the info needed to make a final schematic for basic engine controls like fuel and timing.
MS45 cars from 3/2003
http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm
MS45 cars from 9/2002 to 3/2003
http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm
Image Updated on 8/4/2012
---------------------------
Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol
---------------------------
Been working on this for a long time adding to it and taking away. But this one is pretty close to almost what it should be for a non turbo to turbo M54B30 set up.
From my site:
I have been working on this for some time now looking over all aspects of how the components on the car works, looking at wiring schematics and component flow and so far this is what I have on Turbocharging the M54 successfully with little to no check engine lights and decent fuel trims. Also making sure some components are not pressurized under boost. In the Diagram we also changed/deleted the OEM CCV system to a more simplified DIY Air & Oil Separator using fast acting check valves.
The wires to the MAF will need to be extended.
The 2 Vacuum hoses that went to the "F" connector on the original OEM intake boot are now on the vacuum block. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator has an inline check valve so it does not see pressure and fuel pressure stays static.
The wastegate is ran off the vacuum block, do this if you have a low pressure wastegate spring under 9psi. This way you will not need to spend money on a boost controller.
The By-pass valve is also run off the vacuum block. DO NOT in any case vent the metered air into atmosphere, the car will bog, stall during shifts due to the rich condition when venting metered air out of the closed system. DO NOT use a Blow Off Valve.
On my diagram you see that I use a high flow catalytic converter, this is to keep things clean and keep the post cat Oxygen sensors happy and we comply with local / Federal laws. The cat is on 2 V-Bands so it is removable.
My wastegate is venting to atmosphere, back pressure is less and usually you get more efficiency this way out of the external gate. If you want it back into the exhaust, route it so the tube going back into the exhaust is at an angle and not "Teed" into it.
The fuel tank breather valve, also known as the purge valve needs a check valve so we don't send pressure to it. It needs to be under vacuum to pull fumes out of the tank not pressure.
This Diagram will change as I find more efficient ways to make things work. But this is the starting point of going turbo on a non turbo car.
The Air & Oil separator is a basic $30 ebay catch can which I will show you how to modify so it works correctly.
-----------------------------
This is the Ebay catch can, Air/Oil Separator set up I came up with to get rid of the OEM Crank Case Ventilation set up that fails.
I started out with a catch can from ebay. I chose a round unit anodized in black.
It had to have removable top and bottom so it can be modified.
I got mine from I'LoveILtacotaco ebay store.
It is $29.99 shipped and in black. They do have other color choices too.
The can itself is 3.125" in diameter x 5.750" tall. This is just the perfect size for what we are trying to accomplish here!
There are only (2) 3/8" NPT ports but I wanted to add another for a -10an to ½" NPT fitting.
To do so I needed a ¾" Drill bit which I had and a ½" NPT tap bit.
First I centered punched where I wanted the fitting
Next I used a small drill bit to start a pilot hole; afterwards I used a ¾" drill bit.
I still need to make the internal baffling and chamber separator, I will post that when I get to it.
On a Forced Induction car it is critical that we have vacuum in the crank case at all time and not pressurize it with boost. Engine will not survive long if you don't.
If you take a look at my diagram on the above post you will see that I am following it pretty much as I designed it.
This is what the set up looks like.
-----------------------------
You have seen it everywhere lately, show cars, performance cars, at the race tracks. Gearheads are using Vacuum manifold blocks and Push-to-connect fittings with Nylon tubing. Pretty much the Nylon will last forever, it takes well to heat and pressure.
It doesn't bubble/expand out like rubber and unlike your local auto parts store it can be had really cheap!
I searched a few places for my own lines for my project and found that
http://www.automationdirect.com had really good prices on the Black Nylon lines.
On the site they have it for $17.00/100ft roll. That ends up being 17 cents; yes you read it right, 17 cents per foot! you will have enough to even make a Meth kit with it.
Automation Direct also has the Push-to-connect fittings in packs of 5 for cheap! The 5 pack costs $4.75 for smooth round 1/4" Male fittings. That comes out to be 95 cents each. Compare to other places selling at $3.49+ for each fitting.
1/4" O.D. Hose to 1/8" NPT Threads
1/4" Nylon Hose for use as Vacuum/Pressure lines
Here are a few Vacuum Manifolds you can get for under $25:
Northern Tool and Equipment
AeroDesigns JP - EBAY
Mettle Air - EBAY store
---------------------------------
Vanos rebuild was done
Here are a few pics when I rebuilt my Vanos. The rest of the pictures are in
here
They should be in order from left to right.
these where in addition to the Beisan kit instructions.
OEM Spacer with 129k miles on it.
-------------------------
More new items arrived
Here are a few new items...
------------------------
Turbo coolant lines Diagram
Since the Comp Turbo I have has water lines only for cooling the center cartridge we need to tap into the cars cooling system or build its own cooling system. I chose to use the cars existing cooling system.
This is the Coolant Radiator Hose Adapter:
Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Block port on the passengers side, it uses a M14 x 1.5 fitting to -6 an:
Block Coolant Drain plug is found here:
Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Heater Core Line going to the Coolant Expansion Tank, Treadstone sells the fitting for this:
Here is the Heater Hose Tee fitting from Treadstone Performance:
----------------------------
Got word on my custom interior and the patterns are made for the E46 coupe. Right now they cut the leathers/alcantara and next is the stitching of all the pieces and let me tell you there is lots of them.
The car currently: