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Installed powerflex bushings, review and problem that has surfaced

47K views 59 replies 31 participants last post by  JohnnyFaire 
#1 ·
So i finally got a chance to install these things. For the most part, the install went smoothly, thanks to Tim! :thumbup: Couldn't have done it without his diy and tips, although it was a b*tch to cut out the old rubber bushing from the control arms and i ended up paying a shop to press out the metal sleeves from the carriers, i'd recommend the same for those looking to do this install, saves some headache, unless you have a proper press, for those who want to know, a shop will charge you around 20-40 bucks to push out the sleeve from the carrier and press in the new bushings.

Finished installing, bolted everything back up, took the car out for a spin and immediately had a big grin on my face from the way the car now handled. Everything that's been said about these bushings is true...the car feels more solid, tighter in its cornering line, planted while going over mid corner bumps in sweepers, and rides not only tighter but actually better over bumps in general, atleast that's what i found. Yes, i would sum these bushings up as making the suspension feel pretty new again.

That is untill i hit 65 mph+........crap, somehow i knew this was going to happen as i had read a post about this problem on the board earlier. Right when the speedo hits 65, the steering wheel shaking/vibrating starts, making it feel rather unsettling going at higher speeds. Funny thing is, most posts on this board have stated that installing these new bushings got rid of any wheel shaking. It's ironic how before the bushing install i didn't have this wheel shaking/vibrating problem. Funny thing is, i can't figure out why the bushings would cause the wheel to shake at high speeds, and this is riding on perfectly level, smooth, and straight roads, without turning the wheel at all. I guess the only logical thing would be that my ball joints need to be fixed and these new bushings which are solid and allow less flex are now causing some movement from the ball joints, which used to be absorbed by the worn bushings...any other ideas?

Well, that's all, just a warning for those about to install these bushings and how it might not be such a good idea to only install these without doing the entire control arm/ball joint replacement along with it.

Here's the post by a guy with this exact problem....btw, did you find a solution to this problem? Any info would be great, TIA.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=160138&highlight=powerflex+bushings
 
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#53 ·
I've had the PowerFlex bushings for a week now, and I haven't experienced any problems. On the freeway, I normally drive between 70-80 mph and never encountered any steering wheel vibrations. Like others have said, it might be your ball joints or your wheels need to be re-balanced....or both. The Power Flex front control arm bushings are a dark purple color and not black like OEM.

<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/user/roboeclipse/media/powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h189/roboeclipse/powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg"/></a>
 
#55 ·
I hope everyone is aware that the stock ball joints are rubber and don't last for crap. I don't really understand why people would get poly anyway for the street's where potholes are a common thing. I can understand getting them so they last longer. Meyle HD's are stiffer than oe, last longer, and are made for streets and not perfectly smooth race tracks. I would also ask your alignment shop if they know what they are doing with your car.
 
#57 ·
did not like meyle hd

I just installed meyle hd fcabs and they are so stiff they make the car feel springy and under damped its a 2001 330i with 115000 on stock sport suspension I also installed rear trailing arm meyle hd bushing (what a bittch) and I hate those too. they are stiff enough to transmit a lot more road noise did the powerflex fcabs make more road noise? the meyles did not in front
 
#60 ·
So i finally got a chance to install these things. For the most part, the install went smoothly, thanks to Tim! đź‘Ť Couldn't have done it without his diy and tips, although it was a b*tch to cut out the old rubber bushing from the control arms and i ended up paying a shop to press out the metal sleeves from the carriers, i'd recommend the same for those looking to do this install, saves some headache, unless you have a proper press, for those who want to know, a shop will charge you around 20-40 bucks to push out the sleeve from the carrier and press in the new bushings.

Finished installing, bolted everything back up, took the car out for a spin and immediately had a big grin on my face from the way the car now handled. Everything that's been said about these bushings is true...the car feels more solid, tighter in its cornering line, planted while going over mid corner bumps in sweepers, and rides not only tighter but actually better over bumps in general, atleast that's what i found. Yes, i would sum these bushings up as making the suspension feel pretty new again.

That is untill i hit 65 mph+........crap, somehow i knew this was going to happen as i had read a post about this problem on the board earlier. Right when the speedo hits 65, the steering wheel shaking/vibrating starts, making it feel rather unsettling going at higher speeds. Funny thing is, most posts on this board have stated that installing these new bushings got rid of any wheel shaking. It's ironic how before the bushing install i didn't have this wheel shaking/vibrating problem. Funny thing is, i can't figure out why the bushings would cause the wheel to shake at high speeds, and this is riding on perfectly level, smooth, and straight roads, without turning the wheel at all. I guess the only logical thing would be that my ball joints need to be fixed and these new bushings which are solid and allow less flex are now causing some movement from the ball joints, which used to be absorbed by the worn bushings...any other ideas?

Well, that's all, just a warning for those about to install these bushings and how it might not be such a good idea to only install these without doing the entire control arm/ball joint replacement along with it.

Here's the post by a guy with this exact problem....btw, did you find a solution to this problem? Any info would be great, TIA.
Steering wheel shakes from 60mph to 85mph in BMW E46...
A little while later...

The problem is, when installed, the bushing housing went too far up the control arm pin. Most people just hammer it on, until it's on, not knowing there is a measurement of how far up the c.arm pin to go. And, you all have gone too far up the c.arm pin.

The only wrong way it could go, is too far up the arm. People do this because it makes sense that once installed, the bushing housing is supposed to just slide into those dowel pins on the frame. Unfortunately, this is not correct. It will put stress on the rubber bushings if installed this way... For poly bushes of this style, it makes the inner sleeve(attached to the c.arm pin) back out from the outer sleeve (attached to the bushings housing). And, they separate. Even a little separation will cause vibrations at highway speed.

The best way to install it, is to knowingly install it too far back on the c.arm. This will create a situation where the testing position pushes the bushing into the correct location. But, it will be a struggle, a bit, to fit the bushing onto the frame this way.

You can fix this while on the car with a slide hammer, trying to push the inner sleeve, backward, from the front, as far as it will go. It will hammer into its resting position, so knocking it back into place while in this position will put it in the correct location, as it cannot go back any further than it can go,

If installing from scratch, the Bentley manual says to measure 11.45" +/- 0.04" from the center of the inner ball joint on the c.arm, to face of the housing.

Those with this problem will have shorter measurements.
 
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