This is a DIY for the removal fo the CCV system in entirety and the installation of a Moroso oil breather tank in it's place. I wanted to remove the stock CCV system as it's another thing on the car that I look at and think 'junk'. It was also worn out and letting far too much vac be on the crankcase. I also wanted to no longer recirculate oil vapours into the engine.
I used the two studs on the suspension tower that is on the exhaust side of the engine to mount the breather tank. I think these are the same studs that are used for the secondary air thingy but I'm not sure, my euro car doesn't have this.
Finished article:
Parts required:
Moroso 85465 breather tank (has a 12AN fitting)
Rubber caps (7x) (see link here)
Hose clamp 46mm thin type (1x) (see link here for the ones I used)
Hose clamps 22mm (7x) (see link above for the ones I used)
M6 nuts (2x)
M6 washers (2x)
3/4" ID oil resistant hose (~0.5 m) (I used Aeroquip AQP)
12AN straight hose fitting
3/4" elbow
Step 1:
Step 1 is removal of the stock CCV system. I haven't documented this process but it is relatively straightforward. We will be roughly copying this diagram (shamelessly stolen) but only keeping the connector which is on the valve cover. The dipstick return will be capped off.
Here are some pictures of the 2 CCV torx bolt locations just to help:
You can see where i cut the stock CCV with a hacksaw for easy removal:
Step 2:
Step 2 is capping off the dipstick return and the 6 inlet runner bungs.
This is the cap and hose clamp on the dipstick, which I removed from the sump (big mistake). I left a small piece of the original hose on the dipstick to make the diameter larger to suit the cap. If you remove the dipstick from the sump (by pulling upwards after removing the bolt from the bracket) it will be difficult to re-fit it with everything else in place. I would seriously recommend capping it off in-situ.
These are the caps and hose clamps on the inlet runner bungs. You could cut the caps down some so they sit lower but I couldn't be bothered.
Step 3:
Step 3 is the installation of the oil breather tank. The first job is to mount the bracket on the studs using the 2 washers and nuts. Be careful not to cross-thread the nuts as the threads on the studs aren't amazing. You may need to bend the bracket slightly to go over the 2 studs.
You could alternatively mount using the lower stud you can see and a plastic expanding-type clip where you can see a plastic fixing. This would work and you would have clearance to the frame rail underneath however you would have no chance of draining the tank in-situ. Also you would need a 45 or 90 degree 12AN fitting perhaps.
Install the tank within the bracket:
Now assemble the hose and attach to the tank and valve cover. Use dish washing liquid to lubricate the push-fit fittings! You can alternatively run it the other side of the oil filler and attach to the underside of the strut brace if you have one. The way you see below allows you to fit both original covers though.
You can see how the filter has a deep base, this gives around 5 mm of clearance between the top and the hood. I cut it down to half the size to increase the clearance to 10 mm. This is why you need a thin type hose clamp, not the one supplied with the tank
Job done :craig:
I used the two studs on the suspension tower that is on the exhaust side of the engine to mount the breather tank. I think these are the same studs that are used for the secondary air thingy but I'm not sure, my euro car doesn't have this.
Finished article:
Parts required:
Moroso 85465 breather tank (has a 12AN fitting)
Rubber caps (7x) (see link here)
Hose clamp 46mm thin type (1x) (see link here for the ones I used)
Hose clamps 22mm (7x) (see link above for the ones I used)
M6 nuts (2x)
M6 washers (2x)
3/4" ID oil resistant hose (~0.5 m) (I used Aeroquip AQP)
12AN straight hose fitting
3/4" elbow
Step 1:
Step 1 is removal of the stock CCV system. I haven't documented this process but it is relatively straightforward. We will be roughly copying this diagram (shamelessly stolen) but only keeping the connector which is on the valve cover. The dipstick return will be capped off.
Here are some pictures of the 2 CCV torx bolt locations just to help:
You can see where i cut the stock CCV with a hacksaw for easy removal:
Step 2:
Step 2 is capping off the dipstick return and the 6 inlet runner bungs.
This is the cap and hose clamp on the dipstick, which I removed from the sump (big mistake). I left a small piece of the original hose on the dipstick to make the diameter larger to suit the cap. If you remove the dipstick from the sump (by pulling upwards after removing the bolt from the bracket) it will be difficult to re-fit it with everything else in place. I would seriously recommend capping it off in-situ.
These are the caps and hose clamps on the inlet runner bungs. You could cut the caps down some so they sit lower but I couldn't be bothered.
Step 3:
Step 3 is the installation of the oil breather tank. The first job is to mount the bracket on the studs using the 2 washers and nuts. Be careful not to cross-thread the nuts as the threads on the studs aren't amazing. You may need to bend the bracket slightly to go over the 2 studs.
You could alternatively mount using the lower stud you can see and a plastic expanding-type clip where you can see a plastic fixing. This would work and you would have clearance to the frame rail underneath however you would have no chance of draining the tank in-situ. Also you would need a 45 or 90 degree 12AN fitting perhaps.
Install the tank within the bracket:
Now assemble the hose and attach to the tank and valve cover. Use dish washing liquid to lubricate the push-fit fittings! You can alternatively run it the other side of the oil filler and attach to the underside of the strut brace if you have one. The way you see below allows you to fit both original covers though.
You can see how the filter has a deep base, this gives around 5 mm of clearance between the top and the hood. I cut it down to half the size to increase the clearance to 10 mm. This is why you need a thin type hose clamp, not the one supplied with the tank
Job done :craig: