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Home made engine support for motor mounts?

16K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  driftingSOCALE46 
#1 ·
Folks,

I know I need motor mounts and want to do them myself and have read many diys on it. They all seem to say, push the engine up from oil pan (with wood block on it)...but I know that my dealer uses a brace to hold engine, I'm thinking (haven't seen it), that it goes between strut mounts like an front brace and it mounted on engine from the engine support hook in front. Then, they drop the front (subframe I think--'he' said four bolts drop something to get to mounts...I'm thinking maybe the whole axle drops?)

First, is that understanding correct so far?

I'm concerned about pushing up the engine and messing things up...like with my new trans. mounts, and, you know, all the hoses/wires, etc.

Given that, I've been thinking about the possibility of making an engine support brace out of something like a 2x6 or maybe two 2x4 sistered together...with some way of locking into shock mounts and a monster bolt gong through to bracket.

Totally crazy idea? You now what part I'd need to drop...and then what would drop on me if I go through with this...and finally, I'm thinking that whatever bolts I'm removing would be one-time use only...technically. Should I absolutely replace with new bolts...or thread lock enough? Would I need to support whatever would otherwise drop on me (of course) and if so, how?

Sorry...need my next diy and can't avoid being ocd about it!

Doug
 
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#3 ·
Bishop,

I know everyone says that, but it still freaks me out a little...thinking about stresses involved...and weight...it'll be bolted at the trans mounts and on the motor mount I'm not replacing...so the engine just lifts up on the motor mount side I've loosened...when jacking from the oil pan...while held at three other points.

I guess I'm not either 'getting' that part, or don't trust that the engine can move a few inches and the trans mounts and guibo 'play along' and take the flexing.

Thanks for your effort, Bishop...it really does sound straightforward...though I know the pass side mount seems to be much tougher than on the left side.

Doug
 
#4 ·
Hi Doug. You're going thru more work than necessary by making your cross brace engine support & then unbolting the engine cradle to get at the engine mounts. Besides, it will be harder to get the engine cradle back up to its position to bolt in, & yes its OK to reuse those bolts. No need for Loctite. It is an easier diy if you jack up the engine by the oil pad with a block of wood to gain access to the mounts. Typically you will have about 2-3 inches b4 you really even start to stress anything. Chas
 
#5 ·
Chas,

I always go through more work than necessary...but lots of that is cleaning! LOL

Anyway, I wanted to hear the 2-3" I guess, more than anything. So, if you don't mind my asking, and no prejudice one way or the other, but are you a mechanic or an avid diyer like me? And, if the latter, do you recall the diy you depended on most...or Bentley. I'm going to read everything over before I mount the mounts, but would appreciate a recommendation to something that evidently worked well for you!

Loosen one side and remove the other...or only loosen one while other is still snug?

Sorry to bother you...but crib notes are nice too!

You've helped me before, I know...I hoped I've returned the favor in some way previously...if not, I'll make a point of doing my best by you in the future! :thanks:
 
#11 ·
#16 ·
Not sure if the 328 engine mount is the same as the one on my 325, however when I reinstalled my OEM headers, there was barely enough clearance to put it back in. It has two bolts coming out of the center, one faces the top and the other towards the bottom.

The only solution I found, without jacking up one side of the engine beyond my comfort zone, was to disassemble it. I mounted it onto the engine first, positioned the top bolt in the hole, and used a small lever to insert the bottom bolt. At this point I was essentially using my one hand pushing up on the engine, and the other on the lever (guiding the bottom bolt in its hole).
 
#18 ·
If you are gonna buy something then you may as well buy an engine hoist.
You can always loosen your transmission mounts and disconnect the driveshaft if you are really freaked out (but those guibo nuts are single use for sure).
You'll be surprised how much play you get on these rubber mounts - all you need is about 1.5 inch to get the mount out.
 
#19 ·
The engine support brace wont help you. When you install new engine mounts you need to actually raise the engine a bit to get them out. The engine support brace only does what it does , support, it doent raise.

Put a block of wood under the oilpan and raise the engine with a jack until you get them out. Nothing is gonna happen , dont worry , you're not gonna mess up any wires and your oil pan wont crack or break . Done it many times
 
#22 · (Edited)
oh yea! My engine soon to see new ENGINE MOUNTS!

here i come! Pics will be available after i receive new parts. ^_^

i will follow your steps, thank you sir^ :excited:

I really just dont want nothing serious to happen to my Oil pan, i really dont wanna bend it and have to get new one PITA! I REPEAT PITA! :eeps:


Is there a location im suppose to raise the engine with jack?

can someone make pics with location to setup the jack and wood?
 
#24 ·
I used the engine support bar to lift the engine enough to take off the driver side motor mounts. The passenger side needed a little help from below. But you can definitely use the engine support bar to raise the engine above its normal height. Just keep turning the giant wing bolt!
 
#21 · (Edited)
What about a combination of both??

Use the jack just rise the engine and then the engine support to hold it and remove the jack. This way the stress over the oil pan is there just for a few minutes and you have extra space under the car once you remove the jack.

This is just an idea... lets see what others say

Maybe replacing the mounts is too fast and all this work is unnecessary and maybe you will need to be able to move the engine up and down to place the new mounts in place.
 
#23 ·
Well you could but you would need to use a crane as the engine support bar can only support the engine at its normal position. Meaning you can support it as it is and then remove anything you want and it wont go anywhere, but if you raise it then you wouldnt be able to use that brace. Hard to explain ...
oh yea! My engine soon to see new ENGINE MOUNTS!

here i come! Pics will be available after i receive new parts. ^_^

i will follow your steps, thank you sir^ :excited:

I really just dont want nothing serious to happen to my Oil pan, i really dont wanna bend it and have to get new one PITA! I REPEAT PITA! :eeps:


Is there a location im suppose to raise the engine with jack?

can someone make pics with location to setup the jack and wood?
You can put the block of wood anywhere you want, not on the oil sensor of course. Try to put it where the oil plug is.

Here is a tip, when you buy new motor mounts buy the ones made for M3 or for xi model (m3 and Xi cars have IDENTICAL motor mounts, same part number) why? because they're the stiffest and therefore the best oem piece.

You will need at least 2 feet of extensions and you absolutely must use a ratchet joint extension .

Search , there are a tonne of DIYs on google both both M and non-m .

Another tip: remove your AUX fan before proceeding, because when you lift/tilt the motor , you'll need extra space :thumbup:
 
#26 ·
wow, way too much thought going into this.

this is taking longer to discuss than to just do - the jack under the engine is the most efficient and since you are only doing one side at a time there isnt anyway for the engine to fall more than a few inches
 
#27 ·
Get the Harbor Freight support bar for $48 with the 20% off coupon. There is one is this months Car and Driver, if you are not on Harbor Freights mailing list. I went to get mine today, but they were out of them at the store I went to. They have 5 in stock on the other side of town, so I will be going there tomorrow.
You will probably spend more than $50 in lumber for your wood frame deal. The support bar is a better method than jacking up the engine by the oil pan, IMO. I know you like to save some money, but this is about safety and what is best for your car. You will be kicking yourself if something happens to your oil pan if you jack it up, and you don't want to get squashed under a home made engine lift, that is a bad way to go.
 
#32 ·
i used the jack it up from underneath method. i have to say lowering the subframe would be the better method as you have to jack the car up kinda high and it does put stress on the heater hoses. enough that it could possibly promote a leak there.

there are plenty of diy's on this.
 
#33 ·
the place for a brace is right next to the power steering reservoir and the oil filter tank..... see the metal loop thats for holding the motor up or lifting it slightly, also could jump ur car from there (I know that from experience, dont fall asleep in a parking lot with thew AC blasting and stereo blasting..lol)
 
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