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DIY: Starter Replacement...Finally!!!

274K views 265 replies 123 participants last post by  fjkayaker 
#1 ·
So ever since I have been having issues starting my car on the first try I have been in search of a DIY to replace the Starter in my 04 330CI. After only finding threads talking about dropping the Transmission or removing the Intake Manifold I was almost ready to take it into the shop. I finally came across some very vague instruction on the process to get to the Starter, I decided to tackle this one. Knowing how helpless I felt without a good DIY I decided to make one for us. Now keep in mind I'm not a Mechanic or E46 expert, but I do love working on my car. If your car has a Manual Transmission or is an XI things might look a little different under the car. This is how I changed my Starter on my 330CI with an Automatic Transmission so use this as a guide but not repair manual.

I just want to take a second to give a shout out to you guys on E46Fanatics and Bimmerfest that got my pointing in the right direction. I hope Paraklas doesn't mind I stole a couple of his pictures as I forgot to take them. Thanks they helped a ton too.

Now lets get started:

Step 1:
Park the car on solid level ground with the E brake full applied. Having some blocks of wood behind the rear wheels to stop the car from rolling when you jack it up. Go ahead and disconnect the battery, don't worry E46 radio do not need any code to reactivate them. I disconnected the negative cable and just tucked it under the carpet.

Step 2:
Remove the Cabin Air Filter Cover buy turning the three plastic clips 90o CCW. They just pop out with a spring, don't worry they wont fall off the cover. Its a good idea to lay things out as you pull them off so you can keep track of what you took off.



Step 3:
Pull out the Cabin Air Filter, it just sits inside there so pull it forward and up.



Step 4:
Remove the Cabin Air Filter Housing. Using a T30 Torx bit remove the 4 gold screws. These screws will stay in the holes so only undo them enough for the Housing to pull out.



Step 5:
Pull the weather stripping from the drivers side corner of the engine bay. This goes around the Brake Reservoir. You can also slide off the two hoses that pass through with the rubber grommets. Just watch the little plastic tabs between here that hold the weather stripping as the break off easy.



Step 6:
Turn this plastic clip 90o CCW, this will free the plastic guard that goes around the Brake Reservoir. The guard has three tabs on the bottom that hold it in places so just pull up. you have to fight with it to get it right out, but it will come. I flexed the bigger hose a lot to get this out to the point where it leaked out air. So don't worry if you hear air, just don't break the hose.



Step 7:
Remove the cover to the Blower Motor (the one that blows AC and heat into the car) This will give you more room to work behind the engine. Two T30 Torx screws.



Step 8:
Standing on the driver side of the car and looking down in the area where you just removed all these parts you will see the Four Heater Core Hoses. I took a long tywrap and tied them out of the way. This should give you enough room to see the two mounting bolts for the starter. You wont be able to see the starter very well from here. The yellow line shows where the Return Fuel line was tywraped to the black holder. This holder is mounted using one of the E12 Torx bolts for the Starter. The green lines show the two E12 Torx bolts for the Starter. The blue line points to the front of the car.

 
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#92 ·
Just one point. You removed the eight bolts for the structural brace, but never did I see anything about putting this back. Each of these eight bolts MUST BE REPLACED with new ones each time as they are one time usuage bolts. Not following this direction could be dangerous.
And you must follow the correct torquing procedure.
 
#97 ·
Again I'm just a stupid engineer..... But why "are they clearly torque to yield bolts" Does the discription of the Part# say that??? Do you have the part spec???

Torque to yield bolts are used where there is lots of themal expansion and you need even presure on ...oh say, a gasket seat(or don't you read) And it would sure be the first time I've seen a torque to yield bolt, that's cadium plated. ???????

If I was to guess.... I would say you have Alum. sandwiched between steel. After you hit the spec torque and once you go through some body roll, that torque is but a memory because the Alum. has extruded(you can see this if you look around the holes)At that point vibration could make the bolt wiggle loose without a lock.

This would be a perfect application for a split lock washer. Instead they buy thread lock by the 55 gallon drum, because the engineers don't want the added weight and the bean counters don't want the added expense and the service folks can charge you a couple saw bucks(x8) for a $1 part..... so everyone is happy.... even the folks who think Bentleys is the word of God, instead of a reprint of BMW T.I.S
 
#98 · (Edited)
A jointing torque plus angle does not make a torque-to-yield fastener. 60 NM plus 90 deg. is not torque-to-yield for an M10 fastener, of the specified grade 10.9.

I would consider that these fasteners are specified to be replaced each time they are removed due to the thread locking compound being pre-applied, plus as dmast states they are plated - ZNS3 (hexavalent chromium-free). With a plated fastener you may choose to specify replacement each time due to the natural degradation of the plating, which can range from say 0.1 um per year for a dry indoor (or storage) environment to 8 um per year for an exterior coastal environment (or let's say salty road conditions). The plating thickness of BMW's GS 90010 ZNS3 specification is 8 um minimum, therefore in their location underneath the car you may expect a few years of corrosion protection, depending on the country, then the substrate will corrode which in this case is the fastener. BMW design does not know when these fasteners will be removed in-service, it may be every 1 month or 15 years, therefore they have specified replacement upon removal.

However, this does not preclude replacement of the fasteners each time as specified, as these are just my considerations of the available information.

It is for the above reasons I replace most plated fasteners (and most unplated) in exposed locations on the car when I remove them, as I am aware that the plating service life may be nearly expired with my car being 7 years old. The main benefit of this is ease of dissasembly next time I have to disassemble them - they won't have corroded in the meantime.

Another example of one-time-use fasteners on the E46 is the driveshaft to diff output flange bolts, which are one-time-use because the underside of the head is ribbed which becomes distorted upon tightening, providing an anti-vibration feature.

There are further examples of one-time-use such as the steering column torx fasteners, again plated with locking compound pre-applied.

If either of the above examples used a jointing torque plus angle I would expect people to believe they were torque-to-yield however neither would be.

dmast you stated that the bolts are 'extruded' into the aluminium surface, I would use the term embedding. However, your observation is correct.

Hopefully this provides some food for thought.
 
#99 ·
Thanks Dan ....you clearly have a clue. As I think I said earlier, if they had corrosion, I'd swap em out. I'm in Calif, so after 11 years, mine are still bright

True, "embedded" would have been a better choice of word, but I was thinking more of material properties. The cross brace is likely 3003 alloy(maybe 1100) so also a waste of a Torque to yield bolt on such soft material

You also have have more patience than I, in explaining to meatheads that they are "clearly" not as brilliant as their egos think they are. This is one reason the internet is so dangerous. Morons will read one page on...oh say Psychology and suddenly they are experts, walking around seeing Passive/Aggressive behavior in everyone(or whatever it is they just read about)
 
#100 ·
HOLY CRAP THIS WAS A P.I.T.A.!!!!!!

Any way, finally got done. This was by far the hardest starter I have ever changed out. Thanks for the write up. I was able to get to the top bolt from the bottom with the "E" socket, I had to because the bolts were so freaking tight the wrench wouldn't budge it even with another wrench being used as a breaker bar I almost broke the universal and extensions trying to get the bolts loose. The new starter would not get on the pin for anything, cleaning the pin, sanding lightly, WD-40 or anything else would work so I had to drill it out just a bit and then I was able to get it on. I went 1/32nd or so over the size it was.

While I was down there I also replaced some vacuum hoses that were deteriorated. Got it back together and so far so good.

This is do-able for anyone who is thinking of attempting just be ready for what ever comes up.

Thanks again to OP for the write up.... :thumbsup:
 
#104 ·
Not too bad a job with a lift

Thanks to this DIY, I was able to change my starter today. Thanks OP!:woot:

But, I did only through Step 7 in the original DIY. I did not remove heater hoses or any of the stuff attached under the car.

The key is to have a lift to do the job.

Note that my car is a manual transmission.
2003 MY with 11/02 production date.

After Step 7 in the OP:

8. Use 10 mm combo to remove lower wire from solenoid.

9. Use 13 mm combo or socket to remove 2 big wires from solenoid; leave the small top wire for later when the starter is off.

10. Use a 17 mm box (or something equivalent) over the E12 combo wrench to loosen the top bolt off the starter without dropping the combo wrench. Can only move 1/4 turn or so at a time that way. I should have run the extensions over the top of the tranny according to other posts here, but car was on the floor and it went okay doing it this way. I only loosened the bolt and left it resting in the bell housing.

11. Raise the car on a lift so you can stand under it.

12. Use the stack of 3/8 extensions and a E12 Torx socket to loosen the lower starter bolt (and leave it in the bell housing). Probably best to do the same method for Step 10 (top bolt). But, I didn't have my computer handy to review the thread while working on the car and didn't realize that.

13. Lower car to floor.

14. Wiggle starter loose from dowel pin (I was lucky and it didn't need any further persuasion).

15. Remove top wire from solenoid with 8 mm and rest the starter below.

16. Raise car again.

17. Remove starter from bottom side next to the clutch hydraulic line. It fits through there without much fuss.

18. Reverse procedure. I used WD40 on the dowel pin and the new starter slid into place fairly easily.


E46 325Ci
production date 11/02
manual transmission

Tools used for starter replacement
-car lift
-drop light; flashlight

Shown in photo:
-mirror
-magnet (not needed if you don't drop anything)

with 3/8 drive:
E12 Torx socket
T30 Torx
ratchet
bar
10 mm socket
13 mm socket
extension set of 4 plus one more medium length (stacked together as shown)

combo wrenches:
8 mm
10 mm
13 mm
E12/10 mm
17 mm box (Or something equivalent to loop around the E12 combo as shown)
 

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#105 ·
Just did this today after reading through this entire thread and OH MY GOD this is the worst thing that could fail on your car. It is a HUGE pain in the as$ and I wouldn't wish this DIY on anyone.

A couple of things...

I don't know the OP did this alone so kudos to newtuner. My dad helped me and both of us agreed it would be near impossible for one person.

With our sockets and extension set up for the lower bolt, we ended up going over the transmission mount and the ratchet was next to the muffler. It was kind of unclear where the OP went, but this worked for us.

For the upper bolt, GET A 3/8" RATCHETING WRENCH FOR THE E-12 BOLT! Removing it I used a standard 3/8 combination and it took at least half an hour to get it off and my hands and arm are completely beat up from it. When we put it back on, I borrowed one of these from my neighbor and it only took 5 minutes with a box wrench on the end of it for extra leverage. I repeat, GET A 3/8" RATCHETING WRENCH! My next tool purchase is a set of these.

I did not have enough slack on the two power cables for the starter to hang down like OP's, and we ended up having to reconnect them after the new starter was already in place.

Again, this was a total PITA but I'm glad I did it because I saved probably $800. I just never ever ever ever wanna do it again!

Thanks newtuner and contributors!!
 
#106 ·
I'm bringing this back from the dead because I am at a loss. Several people were able to get this thing off their car, but I can't imagine how. Maybe you guys can explain this to me, because... I can't see how this can be done.

So this pic here shows where I'm at. This is the lower bolt I assume, I can't even locate the top one. But the big issue is that it's bolted from the other side and I can't get a socket back there because there is maybe two inches between the head of the bolt and the wall/body of the car. The angle and amount of room prevent me from getting a ratcheting wrench in there either.



So, from what you guys have seen, are the starters always bolted on the other (impossible to reach) side like this? It's almost like they just bolted everything on and just dropped the car onto the drive train and said screw you to anyone who would ever have to change this part.
 
#107 ·
BMW323i Starter removal

When we replaced my 1999 323i starter we used extensions to get to the lower bolt. It has been a while since this nightmare of a job took place, I recall we needed a swivel socket on the end. For the top bolt, we laid on top of the engine and the guy with the thinnest fingers worked to free that bolt using a box wrench. I will tell you it was not a one man job to get it done and it took six hours. I wish I could be more specific; but I have put that day out of my mind with some success. Good luck to you and I hope you get some others to give you more useful info.
 
#108 ·
If you take off your intake you have access to use a flex ratcheting gear wrench on it.

If you do not take your intake off, then you must work from under the car using long extensions and external torx bits to undo the 2 bolts.

Automatics have less room to work the extensions around it.
 
#109 ·
I have an automatic. If you follow this DIY as far as removing the cabin air filter housing and all of that stuff on top of the engine nearest the firewall, you can get to the TOP bolt by standing on something and stretching out. There isn't much room at all and it's a real knuckle-buster job, but you can get a 3/8" box wrench on the E-12 bolt. Taking it off took me about 45 minutes because you can only go about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Putting it back on, I borrowed a ratcheting wrench from my neighbor and it only took 5 minutes. I have since purchased ratcheting wrenches and would recommend this more than anything for this job.

The BOTTOM bolt was a bigger pain and you probably need 2 people, as stated earlier in the thread... You've gotta feed the ~3ft of extensions up next to the tranny and onto the bolt. It is a real PITA for sure, but it can be done. I think we ended up feeding it next to the fuel filter, then around the tranny to the bolt. You are working kinda blind so that took a lot of patience and I've never heard my dad swear so much. The DIY is pretty thorough and accurate if you follow it though. Hope this helps!
 
#111 ·
I made a tool to get at both bolts from the top

The torx wrench (described elsewhere) was NLA on amazon, so I took a torx
socket, a spare junk socket, grinded and brazed them together so that with
a 3/8" extension, you can hook it behind the bell housing and r&r both bolts.

In the attached picture you'll see the chromed extension bar holding
the siamesed sockets.

Do you want it? pay shipping and promise to send it to the next person that
needs it.

stuart.kreitman@gmail.com
 

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#115 ·
I recommend using a u-joint extension on the end of your extension concoction. I left the ratchet off and laid underneath with my head at the front of the car and guided it onto the torx bolt. It certainly takes patience, a few choice words, a nick or two on the ol' knuckles, and many a cold beer afterwards. Be sure to only use genuine Bosch. I tried saving a little coin by purchasing an off-brand from AutoZone and had numerous troubles with it after. Having recently done the swap I took it back and bought what I should have in the first place. Best of luck!
 
#116 ·
LOOK OUT - Just finished mine...

Thanks for the great DIY - The one thing I missed:

When I went to install the new starter, I spent about an hour messing around on my back trying to get the starter to SIT in its proper location, (on the single pin that sticks out towards the front of the car). This is tricky considering all the wires are hooked to the starter at this point so there isn't much room.

In the end, I found that the Starter I had received as replacement had a hole that was a fraction of an inch too small for the pin to fit. I had to drill it out just a quick once-through, and it fit right on!

Anyway, good luck anyone needing to do this project, it took me about 7 hours, and most of that time was spent in some very precarious positions.
 
#118 ·
My car 2004 330xi automatic won't crank or click but has full electric power and been sitting in the driveway for the past 2 days. Just last night I found out that the problem is the starter, after hitting the starter with a long metal rod the car fired right away ..... The car previously had only power (lights on, blower on, head light on ... etc.) but no crank no click what so ever ..... I ordered the starter last night and will install over the weekend, I heard it's a PITA on an xi any insight? Any experience and hints with an xi auto will be appreciated?

Thanks!
 
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