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Official Automatic to 6-speed Swap

306K views 453 replies 104 participants last post by  TitaniumCranium 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
First off, I would like thank Neil1138, ivegotissues666, and xmltok. Without their DIY’s and information from posts I probably wouldn’t have decided to do this. My intention with this DIY thread is not to dwell on what has already been covered but to share my experience, reinforce things I found necessary, point out differences in my conversion, and above all explain the wiring piece well.

Second, if you are fairly skilled mechanically, can assemble Legos, and have a desire to solve complex puzzles, you will probably do well at this. While you don’t have to be an OCD perfectionist, it might help.
Before you get started there are several things you must do, no matter whether want to or not. If you plan on doing this yourself you must research realOEM.com and find out mechanically where all these pieces are and why you need them. As model years progressed, some parts on the cars also changed slightly so the parts required may be slightly different from one build to another. Know your own vehicle well prior to starting.

Overall once I got started this took me 4 days. I did all the work myself, with a few emails with knowledgeable members.

All the photos for this are in my media library here: TitaniumCranium
 
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#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
How high was the car measured from ground to jacking pad?
That would be 45cm or 17.5 inches.

Other cars have a spring that withdraws the throw out bearing from the clutch 'finger' spring when the clutch pedal is released. The 3 series doesn't have that mechanism. Is it obvious what causes the BMW TOB to disengage from the clutch once the pedal is released?
There is a weird little spring behind the fork that pulls it back, but you are right, there isn't anything that pulls the TOB back. I think it just gets pushed barely out of the way by the "fingers" of the pressure plate once you release the clutch. I don't honestly know though. I thought about it but the thought of getting done in a timely manner overtook my curiosity.
 
#32 ·
I have had my 5 speed, now have an automatic and am satisfied. I will only take a 6 speed when I purchase an M3 but then I might want to try the SMG. I found this to be most informative and read every single step and enjoyed the read. I can see this came from the heart of a TRUE FANATIC! WELL DONE AND A GREAT WRITE UP TITANIUM CRANIUM!!
 
#35 ·
Thanks for the props guys :thanks: - you too Neil :pimpin:
 
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#40 ·
Give me a shout when you get to the point you need assistance. I'll help you however I can. :thumbsup:

In fact, I'll help anyone attempting this in any way I can. It really is one very intense puzzle! I'm an IT guy - I love puzzles!!!
 
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#42 ·
fantastic DIY! the organization and thorough pictures really make this an interesting read. i'd love to up mine from a 5 speed manual to a six speed some day. we should get tim to sticky this.
 
#44 ·
Thanks Tate325xi - I waited to find a really good low mileage 6-speed because I wanted that overdrive gear. The sticky idea would be cool!:thumbup:
 
#43 ·
Excel Spreadsheet with Part Numbers

Hey - thought I'd let you know that I have a loaded an Excel spreadsheet that is all broken down by category, with part numbers, quantity, realOEM price and Tischers price. This will make it easier to source all the stuff. Each catagory header is linked to realOEM to the page of the parts assembly.

Enjoy!

Go here - Post #5
 
#54 ·
Yes you're right Seth. I still need to get it programmed. My local guy didn't want to get involved so it looks like I'll be headed across the boarder for some help. It's closer than going to Seattle.
 
#51 ·
You know, now that I see that I knew I'd seen a connector like that before but couldn't place it. The fuel injector connector on a Saturn looks similar. I don't have any junk yards around here to peruse or I'd look for one. This also explains how the connector is water proofed. There is a silicone seal around the inside post assembly that seals it.

Hope this is the case because I'd love to do this factory style.

Thanks! :thumbup:
 
#52 ·
100% OEM match!

It is confirmed a 100% fitment, plus it is a waterproof connector :clap: :thanks:

Last two pictures are continuity tests. The one at 1 is with the reverse switch not engaged. The second to last is with the switch engaged. The resistance seems to vary has the reverse switch is depressed and this is just with it mostly depressed. The multimeter Ohms setting was set to 200, which was the lowest setting.

:woot:

"GM Delphi / Packard - Bosch EV1 Type Injector Connector"
 

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#55 ·
It is confirmed a 100% fitment, plus it is a waterproof connector :clap: :thanks:

Last two pictures are continuity tests. The one at 1 is with the reverse switch not engaged. The second to last is with the switch engaged. The resistance seems to vary has the reverse switch is depressed and this is just with it mostly depressed. The multimeter Ohms setting was set to 200, which was the lowest setting.

:woot:

"GM Delphi / Packard - Bosch EV1 Type Injector Connector"
I was throwing some old parts out from past DIY's. In my lower radiator hose was the old temp sensor. It is the exact same connector used for the reverse switch!!!

BMW's part number for the connector that fits into the temp sensor is 12521427608 - it will also fit the reverse switch. :pimpin: I just keeps getting better.

Now to get the DME (ECU) programmed and see if/track down why the mirror isn't dipping when in reverse. The reverse lights work correctly.
 
#53 ·
In the infamous words of Fred Flintstone...

Yabadabadoo!

Thanks for figuring this out!!!
 
#58 ·
Awesome write-up! This is definitely the clearest explanation of the wiring required to make everything work. :D
 
#59 ·
Thank you right, I know. That's what I was after. This is the part that will stop 90% of the people. Wiring scares people sensless so why not take the mystery out of it and induce some confidence in the approach! :thumbup: Thanks for the compliments too.

Hey you have the exact wheels I'm looking for DPE0-R07S- Variants. Sick sick wheels :thumbsup: I'll convert your car for the wheels!!!
 
#63 ·
welcome to 6spd land - great write-up

although i cringed a few times remembering how much time and thought I put into my swap

I have mine all programmed now and everything works...except the reverse tilt mirror but I dont have trans codes, the cluster no longer has the auto trans portion and cruise works
 
#66 ·
welcome to 6spd land - great write-up

although i cringed a few times remembering how much time and thought I put into my swap

I have mine all programmed now and everything works...except the reverse tilt mirror but I dont have trans codes, the cluster no longer has the auto trans portion and cruise works
How did you wire the reverse lights? I'm curious if all the programming is correct why the tilt doesn't work. I miss mine. :(
 
#64 ·
Fantastic DIY..........you are the embodiment of a true fanatic and car enthusiast ......while i would not dream of doing a mod like that myself now ......I remember my days with Volkswagen Beetle parts all over the floor as i constantly eeked out more more life from the van engine i installed in my bug ......great times ...all power to you .....and the e46 Fanatics that will follow in your footsteps
 
#65 · (Edited)
Hahaha - I started getting into motors when I built a pancake to 120 whopping hp. Got my TypeIV Westy weekender to go up mountain passes at 80mph. :) I built 3 motors to keep that thing running and then installed a Mark Stephens Stage III into it. I sold it and bought my bimmer. :)

And Thank You!
 
#77 ·
TitaniumCranium said:
Unfortunately there is a world of difference between pre-2001/09 build date cars and post 2001/09. The previous DIY's for programming were pre 2001/09 which meant they had direct access to the SA number, which the rest of the modules see as a change so they will reprogram accordingly. Post 2001/09 cars have a VO and you can't directly change the VO from what I've found, which makes all of this a little more challenging because the rest of the modules don't think a thing has changed without the VO changing.
Hopefully you will figure this out (so I don't have to:p) since I just swapped a 5-speed into my '04.

Your wiring made perfect sense until I started doing the swap and found my donor car had two clutch pedal switches. Both 3-pin. 0 4-pin switches...
On your 4-pin switch does pin-2 get energized when the pedal is slightly depressed and pin-4 when pedal is completely depressed? Pin-2 to ECU disengages cruise control and pin-4 to EWS allows car to start?

Added info for those to follow:
While looking for the pins/connectors to plug wires into the EWS and ECU I found that BMW used the same parts on many connectors on the car. The ones I used were from the E36 rear reading lights!
 
#79 ·
Hopefully you will figure this out (so I don't have to:p) since I just swapped a 5-speed into my '04.

Your wiring made perfect sense until I started doing the swap and found my donor car had two clutch pedal switches. Both 3-pin. 0 4-pin switches...
On your 4-pin switch does pin-2 get energized when the pedal is slightly depressed and pin-4 when pedal is completely depressed? Pin-2 to ECU disengages cruise control and pin-4 to EWS allows car to start?

Added info for those to follow:
While looking for the pins/connectors to plug wires into the EWS and ECU I found that BMW used the same parts on many connectors on the car. The ones I used were from the E36 rear reading lights!
It would seem strange that there were two, three wire switches on your donor car but I certainly haven't seen it all. I explained the pins on the clutch module in detail on page two.

To simplify the four wire clutch modules switch:

Pins 1 and 3 are power wires to energize the hall effect sensor*
Pin 2 sends a signal to the ECU when the clutch is fully depressed
Pin 4 sends a signal to the EWS or engine immoblizer so that the car can be started when the clutch is fully depressed

I know that in one of the other write-up's they installed both the four wire, and the three wire switch. The three wire switch was wired to the ECU (along with pin 2 of the four wire switch) and is unnecessary if you're installing the four wire switch. If you install both it will work but you are just paralleling the other circuit making it redundant.

The three wire switch was superseded by the four wire switch. It could be that for a period of time before the four wire switch was introduced that one of the three wire switches was meant to signal the ECU and the other to signal the EWS, independently.


*A hall effect sensor is a proximity sensor that detects a change in a magnetic field and varies voltage output accordingly.

This is honestly thee most thorough and amazing write up I have read thus far. Great Job.
Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully others can follow this and it gives back to the community. :D
 
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