I know that theres several tranny threads going around right now, I also tried search. Just started to notice recently when I start the car and put it in drive(engine still cold, needle in blue) when I step on the gas the RPM's jump to 2-3 but the car barely moves, like its struggling to shift or go. No jumps when it does shift. Once the engine warms up(past blue) it shifts fine. Really concerned since I have the ZF tranny. Is this the tranny? Low fluid? Throttle? MAF? Spark plugs. God I hope its not the tranny. My fuel gauge has been doing the notorious fluxuating, maybe fuel pump or filter? No codes. Help please. Thanks guys.
believe it or not, I did my first transmission fluid change at 175K, cars runs great,,,i didn't listen to the myths, didn't hesitate,,,car now just hit 200K and going strong, running better than before the change, i am glad i did it
Thanks, only did it twice, when the engine was cold, today it didnt even do it when the engine was cold. so i likely have a software issue? thought mine was cable driven. lets hope its a software issue. thanks for the input.
WHat I dont know for sure if is this issue affected all transmissions or only certian ones. I do know that at least some of the GM transmission have this issue. You may need to research a little more.
when the tranny is cold, mine's a gm, I find that switching to manumatic mode, 1, and it doesn't have a problem engaging. Once rolling and in 3rd gear, I find the car drives more confortable in 3rd when under 40 kph.
Im just glad Im not the only one having this issue and thats its not quite yet time to replace the tranny(knock on wood). Im accounting alot of the loss of power to she probablly needs new sparks, vcg, fuel filter and belts, doing this next week so hopefully she'll be doing alittle better. Thanks guys.
I have had the same problem.when my 02' 325i sits for a while and its real cold out my car just revs to 2-3k and only moves slowly. But once i go 1/4 mile its back to normal.
Mine will do it if it sits for a day or a period and if the engine is cold(cold here is 40's). it sounds like everyone is pointing toward a software issue, and not the tranny. lets hope. will look into this when my baby is back from her new clearcoat and paint fix.
this is exactly whats happening to my e36! when drive, my RPM shoots up and i barely go anywhere. i recently replaced my tranny because my other one broke im still not sure whats wrong with my car, my CEL is on because of a ICV but i dont think thats the problem...help!!
Is your check engine light on? My car goes into limp home mode, rpms are high, can barely hit 40 mph. It was due to a vacuum leak. I turn it off and on again, and it drives fine. It only happens during a cold start.
No check engine light, no sudden jerks, and today no problems with cold start. Not sure what is going on. Just really hoping its not the transmission. I really am uncomfortable with changing the fluid at 78000 miles. So Im not sure where to go from here. Just would like to know that maybe its the fuel filter, spark plugs or o2 sensors issue and not the transmission. Reverse works fine and everything too. Not sure.
is it possible that the fluid is just more viscous because it is cold and has been sitting out? this only tends to happen to me when it's below freezing out during the night and I try to get going in the morning
Usaf-wx, sorry to bring up an old thread, but I am having the exact same problem. The funny thing is, it started AFTER I changed the transmission fluid at 180K. In the morning it revs high, but after it starts to heat up it goes back to normal. Did you guys ever figure out what is the problem?
I am having the same exact problem also. I have a GM tranny and I just changed the fluid last weekend with 65,000 miles on the car. I used the fluid from the dealer Dexron VI and the OEM filter and gasket from the dealer. In the morning the car revs high but doesn't move very much. Once I get to the end of the street, about a block, the car seems to run normal. If anyone has any insight into this problem or solutions that would be great. I did not have this problem before I changed the fluid, it is just starting now. I can not think of anything that went wrong. I made sure during the whole fluid change process everything went exactly how it was supposed to.
Thanks
something sticking somewhere, if I recall. Or maybe thats the reverse in these cars... you guys make me glad I didn't get an auto... Hope you get it figured out and with out high cost!
All this information is great. When I get back from school I will disconnect the battery and report back tomorrow with the results. If this fails, then I will try the turn key method. With the battery, should I leave it disconnected over night, or just for like 20 min?
update: wow, what can i say, disconnecting the battery and Key sequence made my car A LOT more responsive, too. I think she is back to normal(fingers crossed).
but it didn't fix the problem for you though? What I did notice is that she revved at 1500rpm upon starting, lasted for about 1-2 minutes, then came down to 1000rpm. After that I took her for a drive and things seemed ok, no high revs, even when aggressively accelerating on the streets. i then took her on the freeway, tried aggressive accelerating from 65 to 80, and it seemed ok, except that my car is getting older does not reach as fast as it used lol . I am still gonna check the trans oil level today. Thanks, I think you just saved me at least $200
update: car back is completely back to normal,,, gosh damn,,, who would have thought that a key sequence and/or disconnecting the battery would help....I also have to say that I put in 1 more quart of trans oil today even after I had the shop change and fill trans oil last week and made sure to fill all the way to fill hole. and No i did not have an oil leak. I don't know why I would need 1 more quart, but guys I know u had your oil changed, do yourself a favor, take it back to the shop, have them lift the car, make sure it is plane/horizontal, check the level, make sure it is full. My car's high revs and sluggish acceleration are gone, outta here, caput, done...
it seems like your oil level was low. disconnecting the battery doesn't do ****. and when you reset the adaptation it will seem more responsive for a week or two then the issues come back. ATs in our cars are sucks ass. Someone need to write up a DCT retrofit :eeps: :lmao:
update: car back is completely back to normal,,, gosh damn,,, who would have thought that a key sequence and/or disconnecting the battery would help....I also have to say that I put in 1 more quart of trans oil today even after I had the shop change and fill trans oil last week and made sure to fill all the way to fill hole. and No i did not have an oil leak. I don't know why I would need 1 more quart, but guys I know u had your oil changed, do yourself a favor, take it back to the shop, have them lift the car, make sure it is plane/horizontal, check the level, make sure it is full. My car's high revs and sluggish acceleration are gone, outta here, caput, done...
ah man ! really? But remember, I did the key sequence and disconnected the battery last night and there was a difference. Only this morning did i add more oil, but since last night the car has been good. Time will tell I guess...My next car is likely gonna be stick, but hate shifting all the time, stop and go, can't play with my girl, etc,,,,ugh
MJLavelle: you info IS useful. I thought my high revs were due to needing a adaptations reset, it was not, it was due to a low fluid level. and yes disconnecting the battery didn't do much, Pedi was right
OP: I probably have the record, 181K and first transmission oil change, the car runs way better. Go for it. Just make sure to check the level again at some point after driving the car just to make sure it remains full. You have two guys here who checked their levels a week later and need 1 more quart, no there were no leaks, but for whatever reason it needed 1 more quart
mjlavelle: You info is useful. I thought my high revs were due to needing a adaptations reset, it was not, it was due to a low fluid level. And yes disconnecting the battery didn't do much, pedi was right
op: I probably have the record, 181k and first transmission oil change, the car runs way better. Go for it. Just make sure to check the level again at some point after driving the car just to make sure it remains full. You have two guys here who checked their levels a week later and need 1 more quart, no there were no leaks, but for whatever reason it needed 1 more quart
Both reinforcing my points. I outlined that above. And if Ferrari's were in a league of their own, why do they have the same issue of gear stick? Actually, I'm pretty sure that 90% of cars have this
Same problem revving to 4k in d and reverse and moving at 2-3 mph once warmed up running fine ,,,, help
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