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Front Control arm bushings install (Pictures/Instructions)

379K views 333 replies 153 participants last post by  Brenda325 
#1 ·
Background info here

http://www.e46fanatics.com/features/feature.php?news_id=40

Use this at your own risk. There might be better ways to do this, but this is what I did.

<p>1. If your car is lower you might need to use ramps to get the jack under the car.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/1.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_1.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>2. Use a floor jack and the center jack point.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/2.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_2.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>3. Put jack stands under the stock jack locations.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/3.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_3.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>4. Remove the wheels.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/4.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_4.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>5. Remove the under engine cover. There are some plastic plugs up front and screws underneath. The screw layout is going to vary depending on model.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/5.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_5.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>6. Drop the engine cover.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/6.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_6.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>7. Here you can see the both the control arm mounts
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/7.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_7.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>8. Drivers sides mount. You can see how the chassis brace is in the way of the rear bolt.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/8.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_8.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>9. Remove the driver***8217;s side bolt for the rear brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/9.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_9.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>10. Remove the front drivers side bolt for the brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/10.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_10.jpg"></a>
</p>
 
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#227 ·
Many thanks to Tim. Based on his great DIY post I had the courage to do this.

On my 2001 it was a piece of cake. I bought the bushings already installed in the carriers. Took about an hour.

Made a big difference!!

BikerBil:thumbup::thumbup:
How hard was it too do with the new bushings already in the carrier?!?

Im doing this very soon?

Any special tools required?
 
#233 ·
Caution for your first DIY

I've done my shocks along with new Control Arms and CAB, so if you're not that experienced, read lots anywhere you can find it about this project and get yourself a Bentley manual before you act. This is a project where you can make a mistake, and instructions must be followed. Would be great if you had a friend who knew more than you who could help.
I used the Powerflex preinstalled CAB because life is too short and consider how much money you'll save over paying the dealer.
I've driven coast to coast twice with the Powerflex. The handling with precision improves greatly, and I can detect no deterioration in any ride qualities. So pay no attention to guys who are just making it up! And Powerflex will last way longer than oem.

Are you experienced enough with getting the car up on jack stands? Doing this incorrectly could kill you.
 
#234 · (Edited)
When inspecting control arm bushings (and other suspension components) for play, does this count as abnormal?

[youtube]qiNcxjyeT2U[/youtube]

I see play in the control arm bushings and some in the end links, but I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not this constitutes replacement. I have noticed some extra clunking in the front end when I go over low-speed bumps. I think you can hear it in the video when move the caliper/rotor.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
#235 ·
Hard to tell

Look, even with the vid it's hard to give you definitive answers.
Your sway bar links look OK from here, but then again a pair is real cheap, so what's the harm in getting new ones on?
I'd say you're ready for new CAB, or will be in short order. And I'd expect you'll be able to tell the difference in driving with new CAB installed. Strongly urge polyurethane for tighter handling with no downside except the higher cost.

When inspecting control arm bushings (and other suspension components) for play, does this count as abnormal?

[youtube]qiNcxjyeT2U[/youtube]

I see play in the control arm bushings and some in the end links, but I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not this constitutes replacement. I have noticed some extra clunking in the front end when I go over low-speed bumps. I think you can hear it in the video when move the caliper.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
#237 ·
Before I read your question of if the clunk came from the CABs, I was impressed by the video that the clunk and the movement did not seem to be related. It looks as if you need new control arm busings. Since the clunk seems to be independent of the control reaching the end of the travel within the bushing, I was gonna say the ball joints are suspect. I can't tell what you are pushing and pulling on to get the clunk, but if you replace the lower control arms and the bushings, you would take care of the clunk and the movement all at the same time. The lower control arms are not difficult to replace. Lift the car and let the suspension hang freely, and you can get the lower control arm off with a couple of nuts being removed and a pickle-fork.

If you wanted to inspect the ball joints, then reproduce the clunk noises again, and look at where the steering knuckle mounts to the lower control arm. There should be absolutely no movement in the ball joint.
 
#239 ·
Question re: carrier with bushing

I've read this thread a few times and maybe I just over looked it:

I plan on replacing bushings today with new "carriers with bushings"
How difficult is it to remove the old bushing and carrier from the control arm ?

In addition: Getting the new bushing on the control arm?


Thanks In Advance
 
#240 ·
Search on youtube for good vids for this DIY.
Bavauto has a good one there as I recall.
What you ask about is easy to do once you're under the car and have access.


I've read this thread a few times and maybe I just over looked it:

I plan on replacing bushings today with new "carriers with bushings"
How difficult is it to remove the old bushing and carrier from the control arm ?

In addition: Getting the new bushing on the control arm?


Thanks In Advance
 
#249 ·
Are you talking about the shield or the reinforcing structural plate?
If the plate is what you are referring to, they are special bolts and should only be used once and then thrown away. Failure of the chassis could result if these instructions are ignored.

When I took down the Shield [held on with 8 bolts] one bolt was missing.

Instead of going to the dealers, anyone know the thread size ?

Thanks In Advance !!
 
#250 ·
Clunks Abound

1st a little back ground: 2002, 330ci, 180,000 miles. Replaced Front and Rear Shocks 5 months ago. Last week going over a speed bump I first noticed the "clunk" coming from both sides, also "clunks" at low speed on rough roads. Pulled wheels and without a doubt both LCAB's were visally shot. Yesterday replaced both with Beck Arnley parts. [PS: Was A Piece 0 Cake using FYI]. Rethinking prior post, Went for drive after car sat for at least 30 minutes. A day after replacement another drive: Suspension feels much tighter, response much better, shimmy under braking gone but "clunks" still there. Without a doubt LCAB's were shot, but not sure where to turn next. Thanks In Advance
 
#251 ·
The first thought that comes to mind is to ask where the clunks come from as best as you can tell?
Then I'd want you to look at the rear subchassis to check for sheet metal tears where it mounts to the car. Also inspect the bushings.
And take a close look at all four shock towers to see if you note any deformation or tears. Or failure of the rear shock mounts at the rubber bushings?

1st a little back ground: 2002, 330ci, 180,000 miles. Replaced Front and Rear Shocks 5 months ago. Last week going over a speed bump I first noticed the "clunk" coming from both sides, also "clunks" at low speed on rough roads. Pulled wheels and without a doubt both LCAB's were visally shot. Yesterday replaced both with Beck Arnley parts. [PS: Was A Piece 0 Cake using FYI]. Rethinking prior post, Went for drive after car sat for at least 30 minutes. A day after replacement another drive: Suspension feels much tighter, response much better, shimmy under braking gone but "clunks" still there. Without a doubt LCAB's were shot, but not sure where to turn next. Thanks In Advance
 
#253 ·
Have you inspected all the linkages such as the swaybar links and the swaybar bushings?
How are your ball joints and tie rods?
I'm just trying to think of everything.
I'd stick my head in there and grab ahold of things and start shaking them.

You're running a high mileage car. How far back do you know the history?
 
#255 · (Edited)
I'm trying to remember back to when I did mine the DIY's cautioned against prying the taper out before the nut was completely removed for just the reason you describe.
My first guess to help you would be to tighten up the bolt again to "lock" the taper, and then take the bolt completely off.
I realize you will have a problem tightening the nut because the ball joint will spin. I would try to put a jack under the control arm to force the taper back up tight enough to grip. Then take the nut off completely, then pickle fork the taper apart again.
Does that sound like it might work?
Take extra care if usiing a jack to force the ball joint taper tight not to come close to lifting the car up off the jack stands if that is what you are using. Easy go!
Come back here and tell me if what I described doesn't make sense.
Just trying to get back to you in a hurry.
 
#267 ·
Well today I finished installing the new CA. Sorry no pics.Yesterday I decided not even to go into the garage. Today I lower the engine by removing the 4 bolts for the support bar and used a 9" metal blade on a recip. saw and cut the top of bolt off. The piece from the CA then just fell right out. I tightened everything back up install the new CA and went for a drive. No problems.
 
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