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Lets Talk Motor Mounts

23K views 95 replies 36 participants last post by  stosh1 
#1 ·
I have not seen a discussion on this recently.

I dont give my motor mounts much thought really. Should I?
2005, 30k miles. Its not the mileage, its time passage that make me think.

How many people are on their OEM set still?

What is your opinion on solids? HPF Solids? What about delrin or poly mounts?

Please include noise, vibration and comfort in your explanations.
 
#2 ·
Saad just switched me over to the solid mounts.

The stock mounts with 14k miles were not worn, however, did flex sufficiently, to the point where the new intake, and down pipe may have been compromised whilst under driving conditions.

I have yet to experience their feel/sound quality, and will report back with findings.
 
#4 ·
For a forced induction car I would definitely recommend a poly mount at least. If the car is making considerable amounts of power then a solid mount would be an option to look in to as long as you aren't too concerned with increased NVH.


Have you physically checked and or measured the mounts to verify that? I'm at 100K and this past week I just replaced a bunch of parts as preventative maintenance. My passenger side motor mount was pretty worn, by eyeballing it I would say it was a good 1/2-3/4" shorter than the new mount I replaced it with.
 
#6 ·
I know a good visual clue to bad mounts can be seen on non m engine mounts as they will create a hole in the hood insulation right above the power-steering reservoir cap. I changed mine out in the blown 330ci at 120k

On my current m3, @ 40k miles, last time I chcked it looked good will be looking for one at around 60k with new spark, and general maintenance
 
#7 ·
#22 · (Edited)
I've been running these same mounts in my car for several years now and have been extremely happy with them. The car does "jump" quite a bit for a split second at startup until all the cylinders have started firing and they do transmit an ever so slight increase in engine growl into the cabin but otherwise they're hard to differentiate from stock in terms of noise and vibration - although you are more likely to notice if the car is running a bit rough as you'll start to feel some extra vibration in the cabin. There's just enough noise and vibration over stock to add a little character to the car without offending your passengers but they really do keep the motor fixed firmly in place relative to the stock non-M mounts (the M mounts are only slightly stiffer than the non-M and the BW mounts are significantly stiffer than both). For anyone looking for a civilized upgrade over the stock mounts, I'd highly recommend these.

I should also mention that they don't seem to compress down as much as the stock fluid filled mounts so they cause the motor to sit a few mm higher than stock. For most this won't be an issue but since my ESS TS already makes the fuel rail sit ever so slightly higher than stock, I can't fit the stock plastic fuel rail cover under my current strut tower bar (so I ditched the fuel rail cover).

I also gave a set of poly mounts a try for a few weeks and the vibration at idle with the A/C running was horrible plus there was a very nasty buzzing within the cabin when accelerating around the 2000-2200 rpm range. While acceptable for a track car, poly and solid mounts aren't really a good choice for a street car that sees much use.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Are you talking about the mounts in the link in the post above yours?
http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmer...x-m3-performancetrack-engine-mounts-p930.aspx

They are not solid.
I have some time to think before i must decide. I would still like to hear some different mounts being used out there to help me to decide which ones I will eventually buy. I really an hesitant to buy purely solid mounts. I think there must be plenty strong mounts made in delrin or poly. Perhaps the Bimmerworld mounts. I would love to hear more. My goal is maximum strength with minimum deflection, noise and vibration. ie the best compromise.
Figure on a 800+rwhp car.
Thanks to everyone who posted so far. Good info.

I am kind of thinking something by AGK. They seem to be the "go to"company right now for mounts in a wide variety of hardness levels.

My tranny mounts are new UUC blacks with limiting cups BTW.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/tranny_mount/html_tranny/about.htm

Transmission Mount Enforcer cup...cool concept, but do they work?
 
#10 ·
anything UUC Sucks.....so you might want to change them now before they rip apart, i ripped both my tranny mounts and 1 engine mount apart from UUC, everything ive ever had from them is trash.

Anyways, I went back oem for engine mounts til I figured out what to do, so whats a good poly engine mount that wont rip apart.
 
#11 ·
Dont buy polyurethane mounts. They are terrible under high stress and will deform/wear/break easily due to temp increase. I think they are only good till about 160 degrees or so before they begin to wear/fatigue. If its a high performance or tracked/raced car then forget poly urethane. PPL sell it cuz its cheap
 
#12 ·
I love the HPF mounts. They work on all E30, E36, E46 and E92 M3s. There is definitely more noise in the car after doing these mounts, however I have driven some M3's with our mounts that are still fairly smooth and quiet. It really depends on the car.

Chris.
 
#16 · (Edited)
The HPF mounts are dead sexy good looking. I could almost buy on that note.
I dont want a pure track car. I have already made so many concessions/compromises in mounts and vibration. My solid diff mounts ought to be something to listen to. Would you like some cheese and crackers with that whine?

Bimmerworld mounts do say something about poly motor mounts being bad around heat. So poly mounts are out I guess.

Right now, I am thinking a rosy new set of OEM's or Bimmerworld mounts.

I just have a hard time reasoning going all out to a solid motor mount with out trying some other alternatives FIRST.

Switch conversation to transmission mounts:
I cant in good faith pull a component because someone, one time had a problem with them. Not that I dont believe you. But I am going to let the UUC tranny mounts ride until proven guilty. AFAIK, it consists of OEM type bushing in a limiting cup. I will just have to keep an eye on them.

This is them. I like the concept. I will honestly report any failures with out embarrassment. My luck with components not failing is better thasn most, so I dont hesitate to take leaps of faith on gut feelings. This approach has served me well over the years. We'll see.
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/tranny_mount/html_tranny/about.htm

I may end up with solid motor mounts and hard poly tranny mounts yet. Just not right away.

How many HPF owners just stick with OEM mounts? I doubt every single person changes them out.
 
#24 ·
I thought I would add to this thread. I have been talking via PM with a member here about my transmission mounts. I am bringing this up because for a proper discussion IMO, we should be addressing BOTH sets of mounts at once...motor and tranny.

I emailed UUC about my Gen 1 questionable tranny mounts. I asked them if they would send me N/C their Gen 2 mounts in black for the transmission.

I am also considering Rogue Engineering heavy duty street mounts for M3 transmission. I dont know why they say dont bother for an SMG. Does anyone know why? I have SMG and it needs same mounts as 6 speed AFAIK.

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/TM/TM.html

End result..maybe:
Motor Mounts: Bimmer world
Transmission Mounts: RE

What do you all think?
 
#26 ·
I guess. I will say that I want to thank all participating members. You all helped immensely in my choices. This is forum magic at its best. I love it when we can have a civil thread and friendly exchange of information. This thread was a great help for me and hopefully others.
Special thanks to InDiGlOM3 who took time out to help me behind the scenes. Well done, sir.
 
#34 · (Edited)
mounts AND bushings

The Bimmerworld engine mounts are currently on backorder, doesn't say when they will have stock. Edit: called and asked, they could not give me a date, but said should be in soon...
http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworld-e36e46-also-e30-318is-and-e9x-m3-performancetrack-engine-mounts-p930.aspx
What type of material do these mounts utilize? polyurethane?

Are AKG's polyurethane motor and tranny mounts a no go then since they're polyurethane?
motor: (#MTS368MM) "for street or performance use". Polyurethane 80A (straight bolt-through).
tranny: "Group N Transimission mounts - Polyurethane 80A" (#GNTM 3036)

Seems like the BW engine mounts, along with the RE tranny mounts are the best choice for some added rigidity, while attempting to keep NVH etc. low, and staying away from polyurethane.
This is what i'd like to get, but the damn BW's are on backorder.


What about FCAB's?
AKG #FCN4609 (polyurethane 90A) "recommended for race street or high performance use". thoughts?

What about RTAB's?
AKG #RTAB369 (polyurethane 90A with aluminum sleeves) "recommended for street or performance use". thoughts?


ps, while doing my 4.10s & subframe reinforcement install, pretty sure i'll be going with:
for subframe: AKG #SF469 (polyurethane 90A/Black)
for diff: AKG #DM463 (polyurethane 75D/Red)

Thoughts?
 
#35 ·
#38 ·
Pretty sure the oem diff bushings are removable, and are able to have new bushings installed.
Would be nice if someone can confirm this 100%.

As for the fcab and rtab, I'll most likely go with the black instead of red (part numbers I posted), as I am only naturally aspirated, and do not want the harshness of full solid/for race use only.
 
#39 ·
oems are the best but replace em soon, I kinda broke mine and didnt know it and about 2000 miles later the motor shifted a little bit making the fan blades hit the shroud (0 blades remaining attached to the fan clutch), nothing left of the shroud, punctured radiator, dented hood and other parts. all cuz I was redlining while drifting, I pulled into the gas station to get gas and was like WTF is all that, look under the car as if some1 had a bottle of water opened pooring it is how bad the stream was, rushed home at 140+ mph on a 50 mph road and saw my fan blades, pieces of shroud in the entrance of the parking lot next to the gas station. GOT HOME WAS SMOKING BUT NO DAMAGE OTHER THAN THE $400 just for the cooling system and 2 months later replace manifolds and say WTF both engine mounts are broken thank god im doing the swap or I would of gone through that **** all over again
 
#48 ·
Here's the link (below) to my GB thread over on M3F for the VT engine mounts. Sorry guys, don't get over here much...think that you can still pick them up directly through Colin@greeneperformance.com for about $290ish shipped. They were actually originally developed w/FI guys in mind too, as lots of folks were having issues with tearing out O.E. mounts.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=427164
 
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