Hello folks! I'm just looking for all the "e46ers" in Kansas.... I feel so left out :bawling:. I cant find anyone else that does these cars around Johnson County! Met a really cool guy awile back and will be meeting him next weekend you can find his thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...664&highlight= . Other than him the only other person I know Has a 325xi with cheap ass wheels and hes a total douche! HE EVEN KEYED MY CAR AND IS TELLING EVERYONE I COPIED HIS "CAR IDEAS" AND MODDED MY CAR WITH HIS IDEAS BEFORE HE DID! :ben: :censor:. So anyway calling all Kansas E46 Fanatics!
HAHAHAHA, Na not this time. I just want a street monster that will kill it at the track. I can take a 450+ hp e46 M3, throw some MCS 2-ways on it, and smash my old M3 not to mention everything else that would be out there on track. Plus the more I look at the e92 I would have to spend 5k before I would even like the way it looked more than a stock e46.
Now I'm not saying I won't go full retard down the road but until we get have 3 cars again this will pretty much be my daily.
Buy mine! Buy mine! Mine isn't an 05-06, but it is an SMG, 85k miles and I'm only asking $17,500 obo, so you'd have PLENTY of cash left over for any mods you want.
Help me out guys. What are some other cars out there that meet my criteria of being good on the track, ok on the street, can fit a car seat, and a women can drive?
If it has track suspention she's not going to want to drive it...
BMW is one of the few brands who figured out automated manuals before 2012. You'll have to look to the VW/Audi to see any other dual clutches that are any good. Otherwise the only options for automatics are torque converters.
So not true. I could dial out the rebound and compression in my Motons and it was more than civil. It was the solid mounts that made my car dumb. The only thing she ever complained about was the loudness of the exhaust and the no windows.
I ordered shocks and tires for my truck, shocks get here tomorrow, then its all installed saturday...wooo, 1800$ down the drain assuming no front-end parts needed....
today I installed my fan switch on my dash next to my radio. What do you guys think? Too ghetto? I like how I have control and easy access to it so I may leave it there permanently.
Brad did you ever figure out what was wrong with the brakes (specifically the brake pedal feel) on your car? I know you replaced the booster...
I ask because I would really like to figure out why the brakes on my car feel like a suburban. When the engine is stopped you can pump the pedal and build up resistance, but when the engine is on the first 10-20% of pedal travel doesn't do much of anything.
Last summer at the track, as I pulled up at the paddock my pedal went to the floor and almost nothing happened. I was running racing brakes, racing fluid, good cooling, and street tires. I should not have boiled the fluid. Even if I did... I know what boiled fluid feels like. There is resistance but nothing happens. My pedal didn't have resistance. Its like the first 99% of pedal travel did nothing. But then when I got to the floor something weird happened, some loud metal noises came form the passenger front (I think, front of the car at least), and I ground to a halt. :dunno:
I did some research and people have replaced their master cylinders and brake boosters and bled their systems and abs modules with the GT1 to no avail. Someone suggested there could be a problem with the calipers. My dad's Porsche has amazing brake pedal feel so maybe I should just get Brembos and call it a day :rofl:
That sounds almost exactly the same as the issue I was having.
Has there ever been a time that you let your blake fluid resevoir run dry, or get so empty that air could have gotten into the master cylinder?
Like I mentioned, I was having similar issues so I called James and he asked me the above questions. Honestly I wasn't sure if I had or not but I listened to him and he recommend I do a reverse brake bleed using a brake bleeder gun. He told me that when air gets in the master cylinder it can't be bleed out the conventional way. A picture of the gun below.
You attached it to the bleeder screw on the caliper and force fluid through the lines, through the master cylinder, and into the resevoir. Forcing all the air out of the system.
I did this along with replacing my brake booster and my brakes were solid as hell. I would for sure do this bleeding method before I replaced any parts.
I rented a gun (not that specific one) from a M3 forum member, I'll see if I can find the e-mails to get you in contact. I'm not gonna lie though, I may buy one in the near future, it is by far the best and most effecient way to bleed brakes.
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