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Gus M Joins the HPF Stage 2 "6766" Club - 692rwhp at 15psi

12K views 80 replies 34 participants last post by  KamPow3r 
#1 ·
Yes, you read it right. 692rwhp with an HPF Stage 2 running AEM. We swapped in the new Precision 6766 turbo and turned the boost up from 13psi to 15psi on Gus's brutal M3. This car has quite a bit of weight removed and has an amazing powerband. It pulls so hard and so clean. The torque is almost perfectly flat to red-line which makes driving it so amazing. This is the perfect track powerband. Gus has the ECU unlocked so he can make any changes he wants and do datalogging himself. Enjoy Gus.



























 
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#9 ·
I love that turbo! What are the SAE numbers??
 
#18 · (Edited)
Congrats! We added 5 extra gallons of race fuel to the car for you today.

faelar said:
I'm curious why you are not tuning the smaller turbo to make more power under the curve? Seems odd peak power is near redline. You could be making gobs more torque and the car would be far more faster in ET's and track times if you shifted that power band left.
faelar... Below is your previous cars dyno graph at 30psi. Your previous M3 is hitting peak torque at the same rpm as Gus's M3. There's no magic tune that will shift a powerband to the left. Turbo sizing and compression ratios are the main dictators for this. In your dyno graph below peak torque is dropping a full 200 ft-lbs from 5,500rpm to 8,000rpm which is why your horsepower drops off after 6,500rpm. Notice your torque at 8,000rpm (@30psi) is the same as Gus's torque at 8,000rpm (@15psi) except he's running 1/2 the boost. It's crazy how running a turbo outside it's efficiency range can generate so much heat that it literally drops the power to the equivalent of 1/2 the boost.

At lower rpm where the car is starting to respond to boost, notice your previous M3 was down 50ft-lbs of torque at 3,000rpm from Gus's. At 2,500rpm you are literally giving up 90 ft-lbs of torque to Gus. This is where cam tuning can seriously help throttle response and low rpm power generation. The only point at which your powerband surpasses gus' is where you run more boost than him.

We've seen over 50 of these 67 series turbos die for various reasons. The main one is over-boosting as the efficiency falls off and the turbo gets glowing hot. This is a great powerband for a 9 second drag race but not for a 4 hour hot lap session at the track. Running these turbos full throttle at that boost level will not survive one track session. Back the power down to 700rwhp in the 67 and it will last all day and night.







BukAndy said:
Congrats Gus, that is a sleeper man. I will have to look out for that beast when up in the OC. Is this new 6766 going in the Stage 1 and 2's now as standard or was this an "upgrade" to replace the original Turbo that came in the previous kits? Either way I don't feel too bad about waiting now...lots of new and good things on the horizon!
We are using this turbo standard now on all HPF stage 1, 2 and 2.5 turbo systems. Any HPF Stage 1, 2 or 2.5 M3 owner can swap to this turbo without changing their tune. Just be sure to also order our turbo swap kit that includes all the studs and gaskets.

yellowssm said:
Nice numbers! I assume this is a non-built motor. If it is, how long will it last making that much power?
A long time. :)

ky///m3 said:
if warranty.....i will be calling kirk shortly with my credit card #
No warranty on the increased boost maps. Anyone can also unlock their AEM EMS and turn the boost up themselves. You can swap the turbo though and retain your warranty.
 
#13 ·
Congrats Gus, that is a sleeper man. I will have to look out for that beast when up in the OC. Is this new 6766 going in the Stage 1 and 2's now as standard or was this an "upgrade" to replace the original Turbo that came in the previous kits? Either way I don't feel too bad about waiting now...lots of new and good things on the horizon!
 
#14 · (Edited)
:hmm:

I'm curious why you are not tuning the smaller turbo to make more power under the curve? Seems odd peak power is near redline. You could be making gobs more torque and the car would be far more faster in ET's and track times if you shifted that power band left.


 
#25 ·
Congrats on the new setup Gus!


In regards to Chad's old car, it should also be noted that it has a 6765. The new 6766's have been reported to offer the same/slightly better spool as the 6765 while making additional power.
 
#27 ·
VERY good point...2 points of compression is worth alot!
 
#35 ·
dang, I was/am excited for gus but is this a stage 2 or 2.5 low compression built motor?

chris, i didn't see or couldn't find a link for the upgrade kit. must we email you guys for the details?
 
#36 ·
It's stage 2, completely stock internals. Other than the newer turbo, it's all standard stage 2 components. The boost increase was specifically requested by the customer, so he's probably on his own if the motor fails. The components of the kit itself should still come with a warranty.
 
#37 ·
All of these turbo cars have torque, it just depends on what RPM you need to be at to get it. Chad isn't wrong in what he is saying! :) You need the torque on the hit to get the car to leave. The PROBLEM is where the torque is at. If it is at 4krpm, it is MUCH easier to use then if it is at 6krpm. When you release the clutch at a given rpm, the tires are instantly going to try and turn that speed (for simple numbers sake, lets say 4krpm is 30mph, and 6krpm is 45mph). So engaging the clutch at the lower rpm, has the tires spinning slower than the higher rpm, so they get better traction (on DR's or street tires). The other problem is that you are more likely to break parts at the higher rpm launch than you are at the lower rpm launch. If you watch the videos of the Silver Supra I have posted, compared to other 6spd Supra's running 8's, you will notice that the silver car leaves at a MUCH lower rpm. This saves parts, and is much more controlable out of the hole. We also use Anti-Lag and nitrous, the key is to leave with JUST enough power, and ramp it in as fast as the tires will hold.

Now, Slicks work vastly different than street tires or Drag Radials. Once you start to spin a Drag Radial or a street tire...your done... you have lost your best possible E.T. With Slicks, they are designed to spin, and NEED to spin at a nice controlled rate. We could get in to tire speed out of the hole, and what is should look like for maximum acceleration between the tires, but that is a completely different discussion.
 
#48 ·
Easy fix...display it against mph....it still records hp without an rpm signal...it just can't calculate the torque, so when you display it against rpm, it just doesn't show a value...but it's there.
 
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