I'm pretty new here, I have'nt post yet in the new member section but will be soon.
I bought a 323ci 2000 this summer. Everthing was working perfectly since last week. I pushed the button to close the top, I heard the motor working and the top raised about 6 inches and stoped working. I noticed a lot of oil coming from the front of the rear driver wheel.
I went to the dealer and they told me that the top hydraulic cylinder was to be replaced. They were right because the mechanic's tried to close the top and we saw oil coming from the cylinder itselfs.
The cylinder itselfs is listed at 600$ and they told me that they would take about 5-6 hour to replace it. I looked at the other posts here and I will send it to http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com to be rebuild. I have two questions left:
1.) Do you think they're right with their estimation of time, so 5-6 hours to replace the left top hydraulic cylinder? Can I do it myself following the procedure on the web or I'm obligated to go to the dealer to purge the air of the system or for any electronical reprogrammation needed? I have to say that I pushed the emergency button, so the motors are disengaged.
2.) If it ever happened to you, would you replace both left and right?
There are 6 cylinders, 3 on each side. I assume you're talking about either the main lift cylinder (pushes the entire top up) or the bow cylinder (pushes the top out to the windshield) since the storage top cylinders are in the trunk.
The bow cylinders shouldn't take more than 1-2 hours to replace as they are accessible just by lifting the top up.
The main lift cylinders require removing the entire top from the vehicle, which requires removing the rear interior to get at the last nut and electrical connections.
My drivers side main lift cylinder is leaking, I also noticed a puddle behind my drivers door. I plan on removing the soft top one weekend to pull the cylinders, then reinstalling the soft top while waiting for the cylinders to be rebuilt. I'm going to have both main lift cylinders rebuilt, yet only one is leaking. For $600 you could have all 6 cylinders rebuilt.
I have a recent post in this form with links that will help in removing the top and replacing the cylinders, as I was collecting info about this very same problem.
Yeah taylor192 it's the main lift cylinder that needs to be replace.
I'll check your post for these infos. But do you think that after replacing these cylinders that i'll need to go to the dealer to do a reprogramation of something? Or everything can be done at home (bleeding the air)?
Filling the fluid looks easy, yet I have not found a DIY on how to bleed the system other than a few comments that it is very easy and self pressurizes. If you find one please post it.
I don't see why you'd need to go to the dealer unless you're unable to bleed the system. The system self-synchronizes, so I don't see why you'd need any programming. If I have trouble bleeding it I'm going to have an independent garage bleed it and verify the top works before reinstalling the rear interior.
As you said in your post, you're going to do this job this week end?
Have you bought brand new cylinders or you're sending them to be rebuild?
With the shipping delays, I won't have the choice to use the car. So I will need to re-install everything et remove another time when I will receive the cylinders from the shipping. I hope the top will be able to be close securely without the cylinders in place.
I'm starting to read a lot from here and the web for procedures.
My car is my DD so I was planning to reinstall the top without the cylinders and manually close it. To reinstall the top is only 8 nuts on the top, and 4 bolts on the storage lid - assuming you leave the rear interior out while waiting for the cylinders to be rebuilt.
To manually close the top you press a button under the rear seat to disengage the hydraulics, so I don't see why the top couldn't be closed manually with the hydraulic cylinders removed.
That said, I also have a motorcycle as my backup plan while the weather is still nice.
To BMM32005, you have to remove your rear cover for the ski pass. Then you'll see the Allen Key and the button. Push that button, then the motors are disengaged.
After that, you have to remove the rear back seat, the one that you sit on it. Then you'll see, approximately 3 inches in front of the emergency button a place to insert the allen key. Then insert it and turn counterclock wise and the convertible lid will raise.
Do I took out the rear interior today, only took an hour including reinstalling the rear seat top/bottom since only the side trim needs to be removed to access the connections and nut.
Hint: the top has to be down to remove the side trim since the top part of the trim pulls up and out.
Next step is to remove the entire top. Any ideas how to ensure the hydraulic lines don't leak at the quick disconnects?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
E46 Fanatics Forum
17.9M posts
592.5K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to BMW E46, E90, and F30 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about M performance, turbo kits, engine swaps, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!