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Koalty HID Vs DDM Apexcone

5K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Slick-Vic 
#1 ·
#9 ·
The slim ballast has a less than 1% failure rate. We sell more than 10,000 kits a month so if you see a warranty box full of ballast that failed, you will know why. With the full size ballast people don't usually buy bc of the size. Both are great kits, its just what type of money do you want to pay. I have the slim kit in another car that is not BMW, and it hasn't failed on me for 5 years, unfortunately I can't say the same on the full size ballast which failed on me once for my fog lights but now it is stable for the past 3 years.

Since it comes with warranty, you are set. Electronics are prone to fail no matter what, they can't last forever. If it fails, just warranty it out for a new one.
 
#10 ·
the older full size ballast was the good one. the newer looking one is not fully digital as well. digital ones suck. they are unstable during initial startup and down even put out the claimed output power. i've had problem with both the new big ballast and the slims.

bring back the old hella gen 3 replica ballasts
 
#11 ·
I purchased a set of ddm slims 55w a while back they work fine, however installing this I lost my high beams? When I pull the lever back my high beams flash but when I push the lever forward for high beams to be constant I get nothing. My high beams are oem H7's am I missing a wiring harness or something? I never really cared about this in the past but will not pass inspection now that they have caught on. Any advice would be great thanks guys
 
#12 ·
i'm assuming you reprogrammed your car? just find someone that knows how to use NCS and have them code your car to enable the highs again. otherwise, you just have to do the bixenon retrofit, but instead of using that to activate the solenoid, you use it to activate the inner highs. either way will work.
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
for NCS, you need the software and cable. then need to learn it. i would just look for a fanatic in your area that already knows how to do it. the bixenon retro, the average joe can do. it just takes awhile.

but it sounds like you had OEM bixenons in the first place from your last post?
 
#16 ·
Yes, original oem bixenons that's why I don't understand what I'm missing or doing wrong. Seems like no one else has this issue. Should the ddm slims be a plug and play with no high beam conversion needed?
 
#17 ·
well the problem is that, with OEM bixenons, the power for the highs go through the OEM ballast and then activates the shutter. because you bypassed that, there's no connection anymore. you can go ahead and rewire it to work if you want. the aftermarket are just plug n play for the lows only.
 
#18 ·
Do you have any write ups for rewiring the highs? Or is there any wiring kits for this offered? What would you recommend for the quickest easy fix? Thanks for your input!
 
#19 ·
Anyone have anything to show me how I could retire my high beams? Write up or video.
 
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