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Quick question about the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the head

17K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  e46bmwlife 
#1 ·
Are they replaceable if one snaps?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Bimmer App
 
#3 ·
Sure they are. Search 'incolnel' and 'Arhennius.'

Many have issues getting the stud out, but it's replaceable...with a $20 bolt. Ouch!

According to the thread I think you'll find, some use some other grade of bolt...but I'm not sure how good/bad an idea that is.

You know of realoem.com I assume.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Oh, I'm sorry...don't know how I missed that!

Sure the bolts are replaceable for the intake. You just have to get the snapped one out carefully.

Realoem.com Search under engine and then 'intake manifold.' I'll get you started! brb

Nope...under cylinder head.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=11_2213&hg=11&fg=15


I know you need #12...that might actually be the only one for attaching the intake mani...
 
#10 ·
^ Tires, not wheels. Just scuff up the tire with 100 grit sandpaper, prime with flexible bumper primer, then whatever color you want. I clear coated mine so they shine.

Unfortunately the way my wheels are turned in my sig photo, the green just doesn't show so well. I'll have to redo the photo some day.
 
#11 ·
Brokers bolts can be removed with an extractor kit. Just make sure you get you pilot hole drilled on center. If its a stud that broken its way more difficult due to the material the stud is made made from. They are way harder than your typical grade 8 bolt and usually require a carbide drill or bit to drill into. There is a separate extractor kit available to aid in removal especially if it is a pressed in stud versus a screw in type.
 
#12 ·
#16 ·
There is a stud left and that tool looks very helpful, but I can't figure out how it works.

By any chance would it be possible to basically only undo the break booster hose, oil dipstick hose, hose to the front of the valve cover, wire harness box and connectors, MAS hose, two hoses in the back and fuel rail harness to pull up the manifold. I'd like to do this with as little removal as possible - especially the fuel rail! I figure everything else is attached only to the manifold so I can kind of pull it off to the side.

I'm dreading this job because I basically just put everything back once and than pulled part of it out again and put it back a second time.
 
#15 ·
that might be it, but double check the vac lines behind the intake under the cabin air filter housing. If you moved that around when removing intake, they get dry rotted and crack pretty easily. Remove the panel the cabin air filter housing screws into to make access easier...that is, if this stud doesn't fit the issue.

HTH
 
#18 ·
A vac leak could cause that, but so could having left a number of connectors off.

When I did my intake (in the last few weeks), I'd forgotten a few connectors...and had the EML light...and CEL. As I started plugging things in, the lights disappeared!

That round connection to the icv gives a number of people problems...but you can reach it by just removing air box. I don't think you can wiggle around the intake too much, but maybe if that stud is in the right spot, you could get to it.

Don't forget that bolt on the bottom of mani prevents it from sliding down at all...and as it's plastic, you don't want to be bending it around too much.

Sucks. BTW, I didn't remove fuel rail at all...just the plugs for injectors...by pulling off the little wire clips on them. Don't lose them!

Also, you don't have a lot of free play from those vac lines or the fuel supply hoses in back either I don't think.

Definitely sucks! None of the stud is sitting proud of the intake mani?
 
#19 · (Edited)
Congratulations on getting your car running good again. I can't wait to experience that feeling.

Actually the only thing I have not replaced are the little wire clips for the injector plugs. I was thinking that the injector plugs might be loose and causing the eml - but I figured that was a long shot.

I'm glad to hear the broken bolt is most likely not the cause of the problems. I know I have to fix it at some point - Just not ready to do it yet. I need a brake! Plus none of the bolt is sitting above the manifold.

I'll double check the ICV tomorrow, but I know the plug that connects the white connector on it is connected. I'm also going to remove the throttle body too insure there are no leaks. I did have some trouble with a round plug on the tb, but today I seemed to have put it in correctly and twisted the lock. It seemed fairly secure. I'm also thinking that I needed to reset something after adjusting that plug?

The other thing I wanted to ask about was brake cleaner. I read somewhere that I could spray it around the intake, tb, icv to see if there are any leaks. I also read that this might not be that safe! Considering I live in a condo complex I wanted to double check before trying this. Once in a while I can get the engine to idle without giving it gas. I figure I could try spraying at that time. Otherwise I would have to have my wife keep her foot on the gas and I'd like to try and avoid that especially if this method is not safe.
 
#20 ·
I think carb cleaner is safer, but either is safe(ish).

If you don't have the clips on the injectors, then that might be it.

Also, fyi, I didn't have an eml before I did the intake...did that for cooling system hard pipes. I got the eml because in wrapping things up, I forgot to plug back in a few things...Round plug (thought that was icv, not TB...but guess you're right)...the oil pressure sensor on ofh...and also the temp sensor...and I think I forgot one plug back by the driver...forget which one it was.

Get an inspection mirror and 100 lumen flashlight (or thereabouts) if you don't have those things...and start by just looking. It's hard to see the vac hoses behind the intake mani, but getting off the cabin air filter housing is very easy...ditto air box.

I can't see that that one broken stud is leading to a large enough leak that it would trigger eml. I think some electronic thing is unplugged...

Vanos solenoid maybe? Remember, you unplugged a lot of crap to remove that thing.

You could carefully spritz short blasts of carb cleaner by the likely sources of leaks. Your wife doesn't have to keep it running. If the engine spurts up where you spray, there's your leak...if your issue is a leak, that is.

I think you're going to find an unplugged connector. Sorry!
 
#21 ·
Same here - no EML before this little project. I have the mirror; though I found today that a good flashlight would be very helpful as it's very dark under there.

I was so careful taking everything off that I can't imagine it being a plug. Each plug I taped with masking tape and labeled it. Unless there is one I missed by the engine block.

Just returned from Auto Discount and got carb cleaner. I'll give that a try tomorrow first. And if no leaks I'll start pulling everything apart to see if I missed a plug tomorrow.

As far as the fasteners for the plugs on the injectors - is there an easy way to put them on. I tried the first one quickly and it seemed almost impossible.


I appreciate all your help. I feel like I'm stranded on an island without my car.
 
#22 ·
I have some very good news to report today! Last night when I purchased the carb cleaner I also got a can of dry gas and put it in as soon as I got home. The car has been sitting for about 8 months. (Long story short we had a truck that we sold recently specifically to get this car up and running) This morning I went out there with my carb cleaner to eliminate vacuum leaks. Started the car and it started right up nice and smooth - No EML!! Then it started running rough again. It was just the boot that connects directly to the MAS. I clamped that down good and she is running so much better!

Though there are still some problems, but I have faith that they are little ones. The check engine light is still on. Though I'm not to concerned. The one thing I am noticing is that sometimes I feel a click or popping on the gas pedal and one on the engine. I know when I cleaned the TB I did a quick job and it was still sticking sometimes. And also I'm not 100% sure I reinstalled the throttle cable correctly. Either way I figure they are not that major of problems. At least as far as cost or time to fix.

And the one last thing that I haven't done yet is put the clips on the injector plugs (Wire harness) - There must be some kind of trick to that because it looks very time consuming.
 
#23 ·
As I recall with the injector clips...just pull the rail up, put the clips on the 'rail' that has the injector connectors on them...then push it down. The clips will click into place. Easy peasy!

Glad you found the problem...and hope you figure out your CEL. If you haven't cleared codes, that might disappear after the car gets used to running without a major leak.

GL!
 
#24 ·
I didn't come back in to read the above post until after I had been trying to get them on for a good hour! After I read this post I went back out and they went on with out a hitch. If only I knew.

And you were also right about the missing bolt not causing a vacuum leak. I cleaned the MAS this morning very very good and the EML light came off afterwards. Though, the DSC light has seemed to stay on along with the service engine light.

I'm not that worried about the service engine light because I know I need to get new garments for the valve cover gasket. There is oil getting to the spark plugs and I'm fairly sure that is whats causing the check engine.

As far as the DSC light ... I'm thinking it could be because one of the connectors isn't making a good connection and needs cleaning or possibly the MAS still?


Anyways the car is running much much better today. It revs up without issue and has power. Still have a lot of work to do, but the biggest problems I think are in the past!

Thanks again.
 
#25 ·
For some reason, I'm recalling a post yesterday that surprised me about someone having eml, dsc, and brake light on...and I think it was a bad throttle body...I think that's what I heard.

That round connection gives folks problems too...but if you haven't cleaned it, I wonder if maybe it's hanging up. That's speculation...so I shouldn't have said anything. I know you have different lights.

Have you done a thread title search for all your lights yet...I'm sure you're not the first to have them all. I'm not sure if you meant your eml light is on or off...but the way you wrote it makes me think it's on still.

Next step is the 100%, no holds barred jfojing of your car...getting rid of anything aftermarket...painting it green. Fern Green.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Right now it's only the dsc and service engine. The brakes light was never on for my car. Plus, I think you're are right about the round connection. The first chance I get I'm going clean it. Well maybe not the first chance. I need a brake. Feel like I've been living under the hood.

Now for my next project ... 100%, no holds barred jfojing on my car...getting rid of anything aftermarket...painting it green. Fern Green (in photoshop)
 
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