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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-04-2004, 10:41 PM   #1
mcabr
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Water Pump. Anyone replace their own?

I searched on this topic and it seems reasonably easy so I was wondering if anyone else had done this and how hard it is. I am able to do most installs but playing with the engine seems kind of ify to me. However, when looking into the engine bay the waterpump is pretty much just right there once I take the fan off and radiator or whatever. Any opinions on this?
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Old 05-04-2004, 10:43 PM   #2
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I want to know this too. Car has 50K and I think i will be replacing it in the near future
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Old 05-04-2004, 11:07 PM   #3
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hm

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToeKnee
I want to know this too. Car has 50K and I think i will be replacing it in the near future
Is yours rattling and making churning noises at low rpms?
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:02 AM   #4
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water pump adventure... starting tomorrow... maybe..

My serpentine belt broke and wrapped itself around the water pump pulley. (The pump is junked and I think that cause the failure) So I put a call into Pacific and there overnighting some belts and a new pump. If things arrive when they should, I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow night.

The only area of concern is the Bentley maual says to coat the water pump o-ring with lubricant but not what type. Any ideas anyone?
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:09 AM   #5
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hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by darth
My serpentine belt broke and wrapped itself around the water pump pulley. (The pump is junked and I think that cause the failure) So I put a call into Pacific and there overnighting some belts and a new pump. If things arrive when they should, I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow night.

The only area of concern is the Bentley maual says to coat the water pump o-ring with lubricant but not what type. Any ideas anyone?
Some people say they spray it with WD40. Maybe you could use some ion grease or whatever that stuff is called that is white. Looks like crisco. I think that a thin coat of that would be good. I look forward to your results.
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:33 AM   #6
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if you can get the radiator out it is no problem at all. may i add the radiator is easy as hell to get out too.
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darth
My serpentine belt broke and wrapped itself around the water pump pulley. (The pump is junked and I think that cause the failure) So I put a call into Pacific and there overnighting some belts and a new pump. If things arrive when they should, I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow night.

The only area of concern is the Bentley maual says to coat the water pump o-ring with lubricant but not what type. Any ideas anyone?
In case it helps at all, I find this link helpful for my short memory...

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...countermat.pdf

Use the copper, btw.
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Old 05-06-2004, 10:59 PM   #8
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thanks RushRacer.

mcabr,

turns out pacific didn't ship the same day i ordered the parts..so i wont be doing the change until friday. i've already lossened the old water pump to make sure it will come off and it looks like it will. i'll see if i can get some pix of the process. i don't think there'll be much to it though.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:48 AM   #9
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:48 AM   #10
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sometime at idle i get a knocking sound from the engine compartment usually..its very intermittent it comes and goes, seemingly with no regularity,the car is a 328i and its got 90,000 on it very good condition very well maintained, im wondering if the water pump is going? no leaking coolant that i can see,normal operating temps, but occasional knocking that isnt loud like engine knock and it comes and goes so its not like my motors about to go, it hasnt happend in like 1 month and yesterday it happend again wonder if the bearing in the pump are shot... No obvious clues, can someone shed some light and let me know more about the sound that a failed waterpump would emit. thanks-
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328idriver
sometime at idle i get a knocking sound from the engine compartment usually..its very intermittent it comes and goes, seemingly with no regularity,the car is a 328i and its got 90,000 on it very good condition very well maintained, im wondering if the water pump is going? no leaking coolant that i can see,normal operating temps, but occasional knocking that isnt loud like engine knock and it comes and goes so its not like my motors about to go, it hasnt happend in like 1 month and yesterday it happend again wonder if the bearing in the pump are shot... No obvious clues, can someone shed some light and let me know more about the sound that a failed waterpump would emit. thanks-
Joe
I get a knocking sound at low RPM from the AC compressor - AC still works, but it makes one hell of a whacking sound at 800 to 1200 RPM. It will only happen when the AC button is on, so if you hear the noise try turning off the AC to see if it goes away.

From what I've heard, the WP will make more of a grinding noise when the bearings are going bad.

I will be doing the WP tonight or Saturday, parts are coming in tonight. BMW wants $160 plus $50 core charge, local auto parts store wants $90 plus $20 core charge (CDN) and they are BOTH rebuilds.

Has anyone seen an E46 WP with a plastic impeller (either the old one from your car or the new one)? Didn't they have problems with these in the E36?

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Old 08-02-2006, 09:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck328i
I get a knocking sound at low RPM from the AC compressor - AC still works, but it makes one hell of a whacking sound at 800 to 1200 RPM. It will only happen when the AC button is on, so if you hear the noise try turning off the AC to see if it goes away.
Sorry for the off-topic reply (don't want to hijack the thread) but if you are still experiencing this, check to make sure your aux fan turns on no later than about 15 seconds after you hit the snowflake key and the compressor turns on with the car stopped at idle.

If the fan does not turn on, particularly after a couple minutes at idle, the head pressure in the A/C system is operating well above normal and that's causing the valves in the compressor to chatter. Aside from poor A/C performance (warm air out of the vents while stopped at a light or whatever), you take a real risk in damaging the compressor.

You should get that checked out soon. In the interim, turn off the A/C when driving below about 15 MPH or while in stop-n-go traffic. As soon as you get past 15 MPH, ram air does the job of the aux fan and the A/C should operate normally.

HTH,

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Old 07-31-2006, 09:13 AM   #13
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Replaced the water pump yesterday and had a related but unusual problem. My fan is electric, so I had no problem removing it. But once we removed the four bolts from the water pump pulley, it wouldn't come off! Totally frozen to the hub on the pump. We tried to bang the pulley off with a wrench, but the pulley then got all chipped and cracked - it's very fragile. We finally got it off after spraying all around the inside of the pulley with WD40 and letting it sit for a few hours. Oh, and a few curse words. Those helped, too.

So if you're about to try this job, maybe spray a little PB Blaster or WD40 onto the pulley the night before you start. Also, when replacing the pulley on the new water pump, maybe put a little anti-seize on there, too. The pulley is mostly plastic but the mating surface is metal.
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:51 AM   #14
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I'd recommend buying uderdrive pullies or a new water pump pulley, that way you can skip the wd-40, forget waiting a few hours, say more curse words and have fun beating the pi$$ out of it to get it off! Ah, but you know me ask, curse, hammer...sometimes skip the ask part
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Old 08-01-2006, 11:00 PM   #15
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My pulley snaped while installing a belt, wasn't even touching it. Go non oem for the pump and pulley

Autohauz.com

better pump, half the price. Free shipping
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Old 09-02-2006, 08:55 PM   #16
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I just replaced my belts and idle/tensioner pullies to find out that my water pump is the one that was makes grinding noise. Obviosly I want to replace it.

My questions are:

1. How much of coolant do I have to let out and how do I do this?
2. My dad mentioned something about being careful of air getting into the cooling system! ?? anyone know if I should be worried about this?

Btw, here's the video of my water pump
http://rapidshare.de/files/31736665/MOV03445.MPG.html

P.S. It wasn't like this prior to belt change. I would notice it if it was like this before.
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so 2004 bmw's dont come with a diff?
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Old 09-03-2006, 10:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croat View Post
I just replaced my belts and idle/tensioner pullies to find out that my water pump is the one that was makes grinding noise. Obviosly I want to replace it.

My questions are:

1. How much of coolant do I have to let out and how do I do this?
2. My dad mentioned something about being careful of air getting into the cooling system! ?? anyone know if I should be worried about this?

Btw, here's the video of my water pump
http://rapidshare.de/files/31736665/MOV03445.MPG.html

P.S. It wasn't like this prior to belt change. I would notice it if it was like this before.
Wow dude - that baby's ready to go! I'd get that fixed ASAP before she ends up in the radiator...

Have you done a coolant change yet? If not, you may as well do it since a good 1/2 of the fluid will drain anyway when you pop that pump. Plus if you don't drain first, it will be significantly more messy since you can more easily control where the fluid goes when you drain from the plugs. Either way do not reuse drained fluid - always top up with new fluid. Plus use the same fluid to top up, so if BMW fluid is in there (blue/green in colour) stick with it.

As for air in the system, it has to do with the way you refill. You don't want air pockets in the cooling jacket or the car will overheat. There are a few threads going on this just recently.

We actually had a "coolant meet" last year in TO - changed out 4 cars in an afternoon!

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Old 09-03-2006, 06:44 PM   #18
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man this just happened to my car after my friend was racing someone with my car without me in it ....but its an easy change it looks like and i had to replace my thermostat anyways...
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Old 09-03-2006, 07:52 PM   #19
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Canuck,

Yes, that thing is ready to pop out. I used to hear the same noise you hear in the video before but then it would go away and come back.
I thought it was my idler and tensioner pullies. Also my belts would squal. So I replaced those this past Saturday and the chirping/chatter noise was still there. Two hours after it got worse. I popped the hood to see that in disbelief. It's so scary looking. Anyways, car is parked and water pump+bmw coolan have been ordered from www.autohausaz.com. Should be here by Friday so I'll be doing stuff on Saturday.

My questions about coolant flush are:

1. There are two plugs to drain the coolant, correct? One on the radiator (driver's side on bottom) and one on the engine block (passenger side, underneath the engine)?

2. If those are the only plugs, so I go ahead and drain everything then plug them. Now thru which hole do I fill up 50/50 mixture of coolant+destilled water?


Thanks in advance
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so 2004 bmw's dont come with a diff?
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Old 09-04-2006, 04:55 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by croat View Post
My questions about coolant flush are:

1. There are two plugs to drain the coolant, correct? One on the radiator (driver's side on bottom) and one on the engine block (passenger side, underneath the engine)?

2. If those are the only plugs, so I go ahead and drain everything then plug them. Now thru which hole do I fill up 50/50 mixture of coolant+destilled water?


Thanks in advance
Hey Croat...

Check out www.autopartsonlinecanada.com next time you are after parts. They are in Canada (so no duties/customs issues), shipping is free for $75+ orders and they are damn fast. Ordered rotors and pads for the 328i on Monday eve, got them Wednesday aft. Two thumbs up for these guys.

As for the Qs:

1. Yes. There may also be a third one on the expansion tank, depends on your car. I've also read that the rad one is no longer there on newer rads.

2. Yes, drain what you can then reinstall plugs. Refill is through the rad cap - turn car to IGN (do not start), turn heater on full heat and full fan (opens the core valves), then slowly fill at the rad cap with the bleeder screw (on the top hose) OUT. When you are nearly full, fluid will bubble out the bleed screw (have a basin underneath to catch overflow) - continue filling SLOWLY until you see no more bubbles coming out with the fluid. Button up and you're done. Usually you should get no air pockets with that method but keep an eye on the temperature just in case.

Also I didn't go right to the coolant after the first drain - I flushed with distilled water 3 times. Basically the whole routine over and over until the drained water was basically clear and clean. Then I did the final fill.

BTW, here's a DIY I wrote on my home forum: Water Pump DIY on Tuning Emotion. Maybe that'll help, but feel free to PM anyway if you have any more Qs.

Cheers...
Mark
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