Oil Sludge?

When I went to add some oil the other day I noticed what appeared to be a layer of built up oil. I ran my finger inside the valve cover and came back with a small amount of what I would call built up sludge.
I am getting ready to change my oil, so I am wondering if there is a product(not snake oil) that you all use to reduce/eliminate the build up of oil film/sludge just before changing the oil?

if its like this:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...&highlight=oil

Than you have nothing to worry about.

If its yellow gunk stuff that almost looks like mayo, than you have something to worry about.

...no

"yellow gunk stuff" on your oil cap is normal if you do alot of short trips. Few nice 20-30 min hwy runs will get rid of that. This happens on all cars.

Originally Posted by Mclovin1458

...no

"yellow gunk stuff" on your oil cap is normal if you do alot of short trips. Few nice 20-30 min hwy runs will get rid of that. This happens on all cars.

no, its not normal in the sense of what normal is. Its just a sort of common issue, normal would be if there was gunk crap.

If its just that redish/brownish paste, thats "normal". Thats regular deposits that have built up, not an issue at all....unless its some damn thick layers. Get a pic.

If its the yellow gunk crap, its most likely due to condensation; can also be a variety of other issues such as a bad/clogged ccv (crank case vent valve), cold temperatures are the main issue of this yellow gunk, you have nothing to worry abt since you're in FL

Originally Posted by alwaysbored786

if its like this:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...&highlight=oil

Than you have nothing to worry about.

If its yellow gunk stuff that almost looks like mayo, than you have something to worry about.

It was on the internal engine metal I could reach with my finger, not the cap itself. It came off like a paste more than a lite film of oil. I cannot say it looked like mayo, but lets assume for the moment it is. What do you guys use(if anything) to loosen or break it down right before an oil change?

What is there to worry about as you put it if it is more like mayo, and what is typically done to get rid of it?

Originally Posted by VECTOR

It was on the internal engine metal I could reach with my finger, not the cap itself. It came off like a paste more than a lite film of oil. I cannot say it looked like mayo, but lets assume for the moment it is. What do you guys use(if anything) to loosen or break it down right before an oil change?

What is there to worry about as you put it if it is more like mayo, and what is typically done to get rid of it?

This sounds pretty normal for the top of the engine cover. Years of build-up will cause that thick muddy grease. Most synthetics actually contain detergents to keep sludge from building up. You can either:

- change your oil more often
- use something like Auto-RX (don't think it's that drastic, but wouldn't hurt)

I suggest opening the valve cover and check to see if it's the entire engine or just the inside of the cover.

Sounds like standard gunk. I'd change the oil more often, consider running a cycle of AutoRX, but that's about it. I'd run a synthetic that is a little more detergent heavy. BMW's oil is not... it likes to leave red staining behind, or worse.

If you're really concerned, pop the valve cover off and post pics. Some of us really get off on valvetrain pohrn

Originally Posted by antonmn

If you're really concerned, pop the valve cover off and post pics. Some of us really get off on valvetrain pohrn

Ditto.

Nothing like a few pairs of sexy rocker arms to ogle!

many on the E38 boards have reported luck with this stuff:

http://www.auto-rx.com/

Originally Posted by iansanderson

many on the E38 boards have reported luck with this stuff:

http://www.auto-rx.com/

Reading through their site a little... One thing that jumped out at me is that they do not recommend using synthetic oil while using autorx. Is this safe with our cars?

Originally Posted by SamDoe1

Reading through their site a little... One thing that jumped out at me is that they do not recommend using synthetic oil while using autorx. Is this safe with our cars?

You have to use an estoril free oil.......is it safe for our cars? I will only say it is not the BMW approved oil.

Do I think it will cause damage if you do use it for a short period of time? No. How long does Auto-Rx take to work? A long time. Quite a cunundrum isn't it?

My recommendation would be this...

1. Make your trips a lil longer to ensure your car reaches normal operating temp.
2. Replace your ccv.
3. Change your oil with the BMW approved Synthetic oil.....but decrease the frequency of filter changes. Meaning....if you go 7500 miles in between changes.....maybe change out your filter every 1500 miles.....just for this periodicity.
4. Evaluate oil condition by all available means...including sending off an oil sample to Blackstone labs (Do this at your next oil change-after doing the elevated filter changing). They will tell you if you are good to go or not.

Originally Posted by danewilson77

You have to use an estoril free oil.......is it safe for our cars? I will only say it is not the BMW approved oil.

Do I think it will cause damage if you do use it for a short period of time? No. How long does Auto-Rx take to work? A long time. Quite a cunundrum isn't it?

My recommendation would be this...

1. Make your trips a lil longer to ensure your car reaches normal operating temp.
2. Replace your ccv.
3. Change your oil with the BMW approved Synthetic oil.....but decrease the frequency of filter changes. Meaning....if you go 7500 miles in between changes.....maybe change out your filter every 1500 miles.....just for this periodicity.
4. Evaluate oil condition by all available means...including sending off an oil sample to Blackstone labs (Do this at your next oil change-after doing the elevated filter changing). They will tell you if you are good to go or not.

I'm not asking because I have any issues right now, I'm just asking because I'm curious. If it is a viable solution, it might help out quite a few people.

Originally Posted by danewilson77

Do I think it will cause damage if you do use it for a short period of time? No. How long does Auto-Rx take to work? A long time. Quite a cunundrum isn't it?

That why it's broken down in phases, ie; clean and rinse. In a larger sump like our cars, you can go as far as 5K on either phase. ANY current crop of group III oil (sprintman makes a good recommendation with a 5W-40) will easily go 5K without, putting it like our favorite forum "expert" would say, blowing up your engine. I will throw in my .02 and say go with any non-syn HD diesel oil. If you're concerned about lots of stuff in there, run another clean/rinse cycle (which is recommended for engines over 100K anyway).

I ran my last lot of RX about 12,000kms from memory. 10,000kms/6,000 miles this time. My shop says it's the best running E46 they see period. RX is my little secret!

Last year I ran with 2/3 of a can of SeaFoam (basically a solvent) in the the crankcase for about 2500 miles. It really loaded up the oil filter with flaky crap, and caused the filter pleats to distort, as though they were under a lot of backpressure.

Long story short, it loosened a lot of garbage and sent it to the filter, which is what we want. But I'd probably only run it for maybe a thousand miles at a time. Maybe do that a few cycles with a cheaper dino oil.

Originally Posted by antonmn

Last year I ran with 2/3 of a can of SeaFoam (basically a solvent) in the the crankcase for about 2500 miles. It really loaded up the oil filter with flaky crap, and caused the filter pleats to distort, as though they were under a lot of backpressure.

Long story short, it loosened a lot of garbage and sent it to the filter, which is what we want. But I'd probably only run it for maybe a thousand miles at a time. Maybe do that a few cycles with a cheaper dino oil.

The issue here is you want a sloooooooooooow breakdown of the sludge. I fear this method (above) my clog a small oil passage port to a vital area of the engine. That would be my only concern with Kerosene or Seafoam.

Originally Posted by antonmn

Last year I ran with 2/3 of a can of SeaFoam (basically a solvent) in the the crankcase for about 2500 miles. It really loaded up the oil filter with flaky crap, and caused the filter pleats to distort, as though they were under a lot of backpressure.

Long story short, it loosened a lot of garbage and sent it to the filter, which is what we want. But I'd probably only run it for maybe a thousand miles at a time. Maybe do that a few cycles with a cheaper dino oil.

thats very bad, Instructions clearly say drive 100 miles than change oil

Originally Posted by antonmn

Last year I ran with 2/3 of a can of SeaFoam (basically a solvent) in the the crankcase for about 2500 miles. It really loaded up the oil filter with flaky crap, and caused the filter pleats to distort, as though they were under a lot of backpressure.

Long story short, it loosened a lot of garbage and sent it to the filter, which is what we want. But I'd probably only run it for maybe a thousand miles at a time. Maybe do that a few cycles with a cheaper dino oil.

I use SeaFoam as well. I usually dump in about 1/2 a can and then drive about 50 to 100 miles, then pull right up on the ramps for an oil change. Then change the oil while it is still smoking hot, so that it is still real thin. Also using M1 0W-40.

Just changed my valve cover, not a DROP of sludge.

I agree that 2500 miles is too long.

Ive heard Sea Foam is all placebo.

Originally Posted by OrientBlau

Ive heard Sea Foam is all placebo.

You might be thinking of the induction cleaning, which is what most use it for. It's a solvent, and the problem is that it works too well. I posted an oil analysis about a year ago that showed how it lowered my oil's flashpoint and viscosity.

Can't say what it does in the fuel, and the induction cleaning might be nothing but a smoke show. But it certainly loosens stuff up when it's in the oil.