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Old 11-20-2011, 01:42 PM   #1
JordanBMW
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DISA stripped bolt

I stripped the T40 bolt pretty bad in the cold. I was rushing and It just made matters worse. How the hell do I get it out?
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:44 PM   #2
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Xx
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:54 PM   #3
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here's a great thread with a lot of info: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=864113

good luck
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:02 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Drewdown View Post
here's a great thread with a lot of info: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=864113

good luck
I remember that thread. I added a post to it as well, with some additional advice. One other member, qslim, mentioned the product below:
http://www.ezgrip.net/
I got some, and I have to say, I use it all the time now. It works best for Torx and Phillips head screws. I just use it on every fastener now, and it makes a huge difference! It won't help you with a stripped screw, but there is plenty of info in that thread that will help. Order the ezgrip for future jobs.
Another thing that will help in the future, is to buy a quality set of bits, like Wera. They are a little pricey, but if you just buy the tips and use your own driver, then you can get a decent set for $20. They are great bits, and damn near impossible to strip.
The problem with the majority of bits sold for Torx or Hex type fasteners is that they are cheap Chinese crap being dumped on the market. It is the same problem we are facing with auto parts, bearings, etc. But if a Torx bit is even just a little smaller dimension, then they will bugger up the head of the screw. You can find Wera bits on Amazon.

Last edited by MJLavelle; 03-06-2012 at 02:12 AM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:31 AM   #5
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I remember that thread. I added a post to it as well, with some additional advice. One other member, qslim, mentioned the product below:
http://www.ezgrip.net/
I got some, and I have to say, I use it all the time now. It works best for Torx and Phillips head screws. I just use it on every fastener now, and it makes a huge difference! It won't help you with a stripped screw, but there is plenty of info in that thread that will help. Order the ezgrip for future jobs.
Another thing that will help in the future, is to buy a quality set of bits, like Wera. They are a little pricey, but if you just buy the tips and use your own driver, then you can get a decent set for $20. They are great bits, and damn near impossible to strip.
The problem with the majority of bits sold for Torx or Hex type fasteners is that they are cheap Chinese crap being dumped on the market. It is the same problem we are facing with auto parts, bearings, etc. But if a Torx bit is even just a little smaller dimension, then they will bugger up the head of the screw. You can find Wera bits on Amazon.

I am going to comment on my own post here, just to make the point that it is very important to invest in high quality, German made Torx and Hex bits, if you are going to work on these cars. I know that the Harbor Freight and other stores that sell the cheap sets are tempting. But most of these are Chinese made, and they have very poor control over the dimensions of these bits. This will lead to major problems like the OP is having. And it will happen on the screw that is in the worst position at the worst possible time. Look at the mess the OP has with such a simple job.
Also, that product I pasted a link to - EZ Grip, is really good stuff, and worth every penny. One $15 bottle will probably last you a few years. I use it on every single screw, Torx, and hex bolt that I need to remove. Forum user qslim recommended it, because he uses it when he works on Air Force Jets. He claims that they use it all the time, to reduce the number of stripped fasteners. You can't get a better recommendation than that.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:07 AM   #6
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here's a great thread with a lot of info: *http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=864113

good luck
You really need to read this thread that Drewdown posted a link to. You're best bet is going to be to use a screw extractor/easy out/whatever local term you use. I posted a fairly long comment in that thread as well, and you may want to read it. If you finally decide to use an easy out, make sure you use the correct size. Most people tend to use one that is too large. There is usually a guide that is printed on the package, or a booklet inside that describes what size drill and extractor size to use acording to the size of bolt you are trying to remove. Follow that guide. I have seen way too many people try to use an extractor that is almost the same size as the bolt. That will not work. The extractor is tapered. If you drill a large hole, and screw a large extractor in there, it is going to make the broken off bolt expand, and just hold on tighter. So, use the recommended size, and it will come out.*
Make sure you use a T handle Tap holder, to drive the extractor in. If you don't have one, buy one. Don't try to use vice grips or pliers to drive in the extractor. They are made out of a very hard metal, so they are very brittle as well. Any axial pressure on the extractor could break it. A T handle tap holder will allow you to drive it in straight, and reduces the risk of breakage.*
If the head is still on there, but is just buggered up, you may be able to drive a larger extractor in to it, and it may get enough bite to turn the screw, so try that first. Buy a set of extractors, and see if one of the larger ones will dig in and turn the screw. It is worth trying before drilling and going in with a smaller easy out. But the T handle holder is a necessity. It is the best way to drive the extractor in there. Also, if you have not already done so, soak that bolt with PB Blaster or some other lubricant/solvent. PB Blaster is the best, but there are plenty of others that will work. Here is a link to a T handle tap holder, in case you are not clear about what I was talking about***********:
http://www.amazon.com/Westward-2CYR9...052815&sr=8-13
Here is a link to a screw extractor/easy out set. These have the drill bit size stamped on them. There are also sets that have the proper size drill bit in the set with the extractors.*
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53...2053055&sr=1-8
Don't buy the double ended ones with the drill on one end, and the extractor on the other end. These are meant to be used in a drill, and don't work well on engine parts. They are better for wood screws. You probably don't have room to get a drill in there any way.*
Sorry for the long post. It is hard to describe how to do these things in writing. You need to realize that you are rapidly reaching a point of this being a real mess. I have removed hundreds of buggered up or broken bolts, screws, and set screws during my time as a manufacturing engineer. The one thing I tried to teach the assembly techs was to stop trying, as soon as there is a problem. Then, you need to get the proper tools, and make sure that you use every trick in the book on your first attempt to remove the fastener, because every time you fail, you only make things worse. It is a hard lesson to learn. I hope this helps.
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #7
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What they call a "screw extractor" is what we call an "easy out" here in the great white north. You can get what you need at Can. Tire or home depot sells an 8 pack of various size easy outs for $23.
never heard of an "easy out" before.

I cant remember the shape or placement of the bolt off the top of my head right now, but OP might want to try something like vice grips before spending any money and running a risk drilling things. Always easier to try the solutions yyou can do at home without running out and buying things
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:26 PM   #8
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You have it wrong. Get the right tool for the job - ALWAYS - before you do more damage. God knows what will break when the vice-grips slip - maybe the plastic DISA valve, maybe something else. If you are familiar with the location of the DISA screws then you'll know that there is very little room for vice-grips. Added that the screw stripped with the torx tool why would he get more leverage on a round head screw with little room to work. Go ask your mechanic if he's ever heard of "easy outs". Every shop I've ever known has two or three sets on hand for this very common problem. I was always taught to use the "right tool for the job".

BTW search Google for the term Easy Outs - here's a link to set

http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Scr.../dp/B0002UJNWE
right, my point was Ive always heard them called screw or bolt extractors... Different places, different terms i guess. Us brits call vice grips molly clamps.

As for the DISA, I couldnt remember the placement of the bolts. I think we could argue about the best or easiest way to extract something for a while, but without seeing the actual bolt, condition of it and the tools available its quite pointless
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:24 PM   #9
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been there done that on the DISA bolt. due to the angle and tight space every recommendation is "usless." your best bet is to use a dremel and cut a hole on the bolt. make sure your cutter plate is just big enough to cut a slant on the bolt but not big enough to cut/damage stuff near by. after the slant/grove is cut then just pop in a flat head screw driver and remove.

again...been there done that and this is what worked for me. good luck!
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:27 PM   #10
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Angle? Space? Really?

Take the upper intake boot off and you'll have plenty of space to get a 3/8" ratchet and T-40 bit in there. Even more room if you take out the plastic drug bin divider. Also if you used a T-30, that's your problem right there. It's a T-40.
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do you park near poodles?
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:05 PM   #11
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Are all of your posts this well thought out? You haven't a clue what your talking about. Have you read the thread - the bolts stripped. Others have suggested vice-grips!! I have the DISA in my hand with no other obstructions and I still could never get a pair of vice grips on the f****g screw. And before you suggest needle nose pliers remember that the the head is rounded and there is no room within the recess to turn the pliers even if you get them on the head.
Drunk much?

Yes, I'd go with long-nose locking pliers not the giant ones you've got, and you'd probably have room to turn it. I'd also consider a sacrificial TORX bit and some JB weld.

Then again I was referring to taking the bolt out without damaging it in the first place. Using any driver at an angle will easily round out the bolt. Take the intake boot off and you've got room to get a proper bit + ratchet and reduce the risk of rounding anything off to, well, zero.
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do you park near poodles?
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:25 AM   #12
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Taking the bolt out without damaging it?? The f****g bolt is already stripped, what you can't read.

JB Weld and a sacrificial torx bit - you are an amateur. You should probably only offer advice on Kia's or lawnmowers.
You aren't, by any chance, that guy who was going to stick a ghost chili up his ass, were you? If so, that'd explain your attitude. I'd be pretty sore if my ass were on fire like that.

Otherwise, you're barking up the wrong tree and lacking in the whole reading comprehension department. Re-read what I wrote, sit in a corner like a bad little boy, and think about why your response was entirely unwarranted.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:55 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the suggestions, going to go with the easy out way. I can use it for future purposes as well.
I did use 40, mis-typed the title.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:08 PM   #14
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And, yes, I suspect you'd have room to rotate them if you kept them on-axis with the bolt.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:54 AM   #15
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any update Jordan?
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:20 AM   #16
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dremel / easy out FTW. If it was a bolt that was located somewhere else other than in the engine bay I'd suggest channel locks or something like that, but you don't want to waste time and effort. Hopefully you got this worked out.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:16 PM   #17
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any update Jordan?
Easy out works like a charm, I had no problem with it.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:20 PM   #18
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How to use an Easyout.

Found this DIY. Thought it might be useful to post ...

http://crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:59 PM   #19
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I am in the same position now, used a t30 being stupid and the DISA bolt stripped.
Any recommendations without using power tools? don't have electrical outlet in the parking lot.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:50 PM   #20
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I did the same thing, ended up pushing like a mother ****er into the bolt to try and get the torx seated as far into the bolt as possible...finally got it.
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