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Old 03-10-2012, 03:16 AM   #1
joshism
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Designing a subwoofer enclosure.

Subwoofer just came in. Need to save space but meet sub-woofer's ft3 requirements. It's a JL Audio 10W0v3-4. Thinking about a JX500/1D for an amp. Don't need to out thump anyone. Got 2 small kids in the rear seats. How do alla yalls have enough ft3 through the ski pass? My sub needs .65 ft3. I don't know how people be measuring their fiberglass enclosures.

I'd have to extend the box kinda far into the trunk if I want to go skiing, golfing, or fishing. I want it to be removable, but still save space.

I was thinking about attaching the below to a box inside of the ski pass.

Came up with a few funny designs. Maybe the box in the ski pass attached to another box shaped like the ski pass leather cover.

Thinking about putting the amp inside the frame in the rear seats by the driver's side.

Crazy ideas. This box below might work if it's detachable. Perhaps with a clamp with a rubber gasket? I don't want a huge box inside my trunk.

Last edited by joshism; 03-12-2012 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:53 PM   #2
joshism
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The problem:

I have a 2004 330CI convertible. Anyone have a solution to my problem?
1. Need space as close to original as possible
2. Need it to fit a 10 inch subwoofer
3. Need it to have 0.65 ft3 of air inside the enclosure.
4. Need the enclosure to fill the ski pass.
5. Need it to be removable.

Do people just make their subwoofer enclosures without considering the ft3 requirements?

Last edited by joshism; 03-10-2012 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:16 PM   #3
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Here's a couple of solutions.

http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...&cat=10&page=1

http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/pr...e-M3-3-Series/

They are both pretty expensive, but they look like they will be able to satisfy your requirements. I don't know if BavSoundWerks will sell the box by itself, but if they will I think that it is the closest solution to the ski-pass through design you are looking for. The most cost effective way will definitely be to build your own. I also think that the wicked C.A.S. box offers a little more volume, but it won't negatively affect your bass response in any way. I have a similar set up for a 12" sub and it works great.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:21 PM   #4
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As far as measuring the cubic feet of your enclosure, I have heard that you can use packing peanuts. Get a 12x12x12 box and see how many boxes of peanuts it takes to fill the fiberglass enclosure.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:38 PM   #5
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^ That's an interesting way. Here's a link to various enclosure calculators depending on shape, etc. It also has a lot of info regarding SQ, SP and such.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:56 PM   #6
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This is probably the only way that I can meet my subwoofer's ft3 requirements along with all my other needs, but it'll look funny. The thing is that yes, it is removable, but I'd have to remove the rear seat each time that I need to remove it. I should just sell my BMW Z3 and get a van. I already purchased a subwoofer. I don't plan on spending that much money on a BSW system.

Last edited by joshism; 03-12-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:04 PM   #7
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Most likely, I'll be going with this design, but the subwoofer will be slanted in order to fit in the trunk because it's 10.52", and when the convertible top is down, it's only 10 inches. This is the only way to do it if I want to be able to remove the subwoofer. Took me forever to calculate the dimensions to meet the subwoofer's requirements. This design allows me to use up the space inside the ski pass, and allow me to remove it whenever I need to.

Last edited by joshism; 03-14-2012 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by relentlessone View Post
As far as measuring the cubic feet of your enclosure, I have heard that you can use packing peanuts. Get a 12x12x12 box and see how many boxes of peanuts it takes to fill the fiberglass enclosure.
I saw this guy measuring with rice grain, which is a bit more accurate. I have a buddy that is a professional car audio installer, and he says fiberglass enclosures don't sound as good as wood.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshism View Post
I saw this guy measuring with rice grain, which is a bit more accurate. I have a buddy that is a professional car audio installer, and he says fiberglass enclosures don't sound as good as wood.
1) Rice is a bit more accurate but it is a mess. I prefer to use packing peanuts.

2) Your friend obviously isn't building quality fiberglass enclosures then. Glass enclosures can sound EXACTLY like wood when done properly. Very few people in car audio know how to use glass the PROPER way. Just because it gets hard doesn't mean it is laid up properly.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by BigT330Ci View Post
1) Rice is a bit more accurate but it is a mess. I prefer to use packing peanuts.

2) Your friend obviously isn't building quality fiberglass enclosures then. Glass enclosures can sound EXACTLY like wood when done properly. Very few people in car audio know how to use glass the PROPER way. Just because it gets hard doesn't mean it is laid up properly.
Not dry rice grain. If it's cooked, then yes it would be a mess. About the fiberglass enclosures: I believe my friend, because musicians use different kinds of wood for drums, and they say maple is superior to birch if you ask any professional drummer. Same goes with guitars. An Epiphone Les Paul solid body is only in the $400 - $600 range, as compared to a Gibson Les Paul, which is in the $1000 - $3000 range. They look almost identical, and made by the same company. The Gibson has a higher quality and harder wood, that's why it's more expensive. My point is that material does matter.

Last edited by joshism; 03-14-2012 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshism View Post
Not dry rice grain. If it's cooked, then yes it would be a mess. About the fiberglass enclosures: I believe my friend, because musicians use different kinds of wood for drums, and they say maple is superior to birch if you ask any professional drummer. Same goes with guitars. An Epiphone Les Paul solid body is only in the $400 - $600 range, as compared to a Gibson Les Paul, which is in the $1000 - $3000 range. They look almost identical, and made by the same company. The Gibson has a higher quality and harder wood, that's why it's more expensive. My point is that material does matter.
You are 100% right when you are dealing with frequency ranges above what a subwoofer produces. At the sub 100hz range there is no audible difference, given that both enclosure are built properly, equally and without any resonance or flex.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:19 PM   #12
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I have a JL13w7 going in the trunk of my 04 M3 convertible. I have 3 sets of MB Quart q's with mcintosh pushing them. I hope to have this finished soon. Does anyone know anything about the Porsche brake swap job? (brembo)

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Old 03-13-2012, 10:28 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BigT330Ci View Post
1) Rice is a bit more accurate but it is a mess. I prefer to use packing peanuts.

2) Your friend obviously isn't building quality fiberglass enclosures then. Glass enclosures can sound EXACTLY like wood when done properly. Very few people in car audio know how to use glass the PROPER way. Just because it gets hard doesn't mean it is laid up properly.
+1
Fiberglass when done properly sounds the same as wood enclosures but they are more time consuming and you have to know what your doing.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:53 AM   #14
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I'm going with fiberglass because of the weight distribution over the rear axle. I ordered a setup from Turner motorsports that levels your ride and adjust the rear end for ride alignment. I was wondering if any of you have put the thought into that? As far as enclosure wood, I've heard that MDF is the way to go; I don't hear much of Mahogany enclosure these days so I would tend to think wasting $$$$ on nice wood for a barely noticeable difference in car audio maybe frowned upon and create issues with tree hugging hippies! Stick to the industry standard, unless you plan to put a window in your enclosure to marvel at the beauty of the wood.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #15
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I'm going with fiberglass because of the weight distribution over the rear axle. I ordered a setup from Turner motorsports that levels your ride and adjust the rear end for ride alignment. I was wondering if any of you have put the thought into that? As far as enclosure wood, I've heard that MDF is the way to go; I don't hear much of Mahogany enclosure these days so I would tend to think wasting $$$$ on nice wood for a barely noticeable difference in car audio maybe frowned upon and create issues with tree hugging hippies! Stick to the industry standard, unless you plan to put a window in your enclosure to marvel at the beauty of the wood.
Trunk space is what's important for me. I'm not a drifter or a racer, so balance doesn't matter as much to me. I just take my wife and kids to Disney movies at the drive in theater with the convertible top open. So all I need is a little bass for the audio experience.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:04 PM   #16
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Getter dun! Yeah, finally have a little time to make some progress. This design is supposed to allow the trunk floor mat to be opened/removed. I could've built a simple box, but I built this to save space, yet have 0.65 ft3 of volume to meet the subwoofer's requirements. Got some actual photos of the MDF cutting, and some photoshopped images of what I hope it'll look like. I wonder where I can get some of that carpet/mat (or whatever) that'll match? If I build more, is there anybody interested in buying? I have yet to see the total cost, so the price will be determined. I might be able to customize it a little to meet people's needs. Especially because people have different sizes of subwoofers and amps.








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Old 03-23-2012, 02:11 AM   #17
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Gonna add a little JL Audio badge like how they have it on the 3 series stealth boxes: http://www.jlaudio.com/product/54216...580.0/3-Series
This is just another photoshop rendering below.

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Old 03-23-2012, 02:29 AM   #18
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Most important thing on a vert is to have that bass pressure actually enter the cabin. Any type of venting from the trunk to the cabin will suffice, however metal will need to be cut. It will be worth it in the long run. I've heard cars with sealed trunks and you can barely hear the bass like it should as if were in a hatch back. Look into venting into the cabin via the backseat sheet metal or rear deck lid.

Also the JL500/1 is too much power for the W0, you would be better off with the 250/1, its still a great amp and will have nice output.
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:48 AM   #19
joshism
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Most important thing on a vert is to have that bass pressure actually enter the cabin. Any type of venting from the trunk to the cabin will suffice, however metal will need to be cut. It will be worth it in the long run. I've heard cars with sealed trunks and you can barely hear the bass like it should as if were in a hatch back. Look into venting into the cabin via the backseat sheet metal or rear deck lid.

Also the JL500/1 is too much power for the W0, you would be better off with the 250/1, its still a great amp and will have nice output.
But my subwoofer is running 4 ohms. So according to JL, the amp will only use 300 watts at 4 ohms, which is the right amount of power. If it's running in 2 ohms, then yeah, it would be 500 watts. About the venting -under the headrests or on top of the rear seats are a bunch of vents that go all the way down to the trunk through the frame. There's holes in the frame, so I hope it'll be enough. By the way, this one is the new JX500/1D, not the old JX500/1. The new JX500/1D is 43% smaller than the old JX500/1. The new 1D is a class D, hence the D. The old one is class A/B, which is supposed to sound better, but is way less energy efficient than the new one.

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Old 03-25-2012, 11:53 PM   #20
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I know it's better not to use a terminal cup, but they just look cool. Perhaps I could seal it with silicone. Anybody have a recommendation on this? I was just thinking about buying one from ebay.
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