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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 09-09-2012, 01:48 PM   #1
E46330Man
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Bav Auto Power Programmer- Does It Work

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp


Looking to possibly purchase this based on fanatics reviews, has anyone used this, what differences did you see/feel, would it work better in combination with exhaust work and a CAI???

Thanks Guys



I did do a search and didnt find conclusive evidence
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by E46330Man View Post
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp


Looking to possibly purchase this based on fanatics reviews, has anyone used this, what differences did you see/feel, would it work better in combination with exhaust work and a CAI???

Thanks Guys



I did do a search and didnt find conclusive evidence
I have it- its the same as the shark-I love mine- especially in combination with the sprint booster- the biggest difference i notice is the raised rev limit-
GO FOR IT DUDE!!
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:17 AM   #3
E46330Man
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For sure, did you notice any increased off the line power??
Any difference in fuel mileage?
How is the ease of install on the sprint booster,and how do you change settings?
Do you have any other mods?

Thanks for the response man!!!
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:20 PM   #4
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Yes- its notable- but it makes a big difference- the pull is far better- ya I've done a bunch- throttle body spacer, CAI, Cat-less headers to highline exhaust, Bavauto power programmer, sprint booster, bilstein/H&R sport springs, m3 competition package seats and steering wheel, ZHP shift knob... Ac upper strut, all merle hd/ poly bushings ... Sitting on M6 rims 19x9 19x9.5 (265)- basically knowing its never going to be an M I went with as much power as I could but made it a handling machine- off/on ramps usually at 55-65 mph - if you need more advice hit me up!
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:47 AM   #5
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I heard doing headers will unleash alot of power in these cars, where did you get your headers from.....im very happy to see it will pull alot better with the power programmer.........Im looking at doing an AFE CAI, what kind do you have?? as well as the CAI i wanted to do a magnaflow custom catback setup.... i would hope to gain around 10-12 HP for my effort
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:54 AM   #6
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As far an on/off ramps............i have a 2003 330xi, the AWD makes them a huge blast, i hate when ppl are in front of me.........do you use premium fuel??
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:46 PM   #7
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Sounds like you have some great plans for the car! I would highly recommend the aFe Intake, we have sold many of them and our customers have been very happy with the sound and performance. Add that to an exhaust and programmer like the Conforti Shark Injector and you will have a nice little boost in power and a lot funner car to drive!
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModBargains View Post
Sounds like you have some great plans for the car! I would highly recommend the aFe Intake, we have sold many of them and our customers have been very happy with the sound and performance. Add that to an exhaust and programmer like the Conforti Shark Injector and you will have a nice little boost in power and a lot funner car to drive!
YES, YES, NOOO!
yes AFE, gold foil too! yes to ebay header, but they can be improved upon with a little finishing, no to AWD. personal preference. yes too shark or Bavauto, yes to sprint boost.

I'm putting 200cell cats after my headers, helps keep things semi-legal, clear up O2 sensor issues, and saves the planet, in my mind.

for the modder who is starting off, these reflashes are fine, you can always go bigger/more expensive, too. but that'll do fine.

lightweight flywheel is good to. NEXT!

Custom carbon roof. 1st ever on an E46 sedan with a sunroof! ...probably.
not recomended. unless you know what you are doing. and if you think you know what you are doing, you already messed something up.

drive safely! (sprint booster makes this a little tough.)
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:09 PM   #9
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YES, YES, NOOO!
yes AFE, gold foil too! yes to ebay header, but they can be improved upon with a little finishing, no to AWD. personal preference. yes too shark or Bavauto, yes to sprint boost.

I'm putting 200cell cats after my headers, helps keep things semi-legal, clear up O2 sensor issues, and saves the planet, in my mind.

for the modder who is starting off, these reflashes are fine, you can always go bigger/more expensive, too. but that'll do fine.

lightweight flywheel is good to. NEXT!

Custom carbon roof. 1st ever on an E46 sedan with a sunroof! ...probably.
not recomended. unless you know what you are doing. and if you think you know what you are doing, you already messed something up.

drive safely! (sprint booster makes this a little tough.)
Best post ever.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:50 AM   #10
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WTF happened in this thread....

BTW, there are dyno charts on BavAuto's site for this product. For a 3.0L on 91 octane (no mention of other mods) they got 1.9 ft/lbs of torque and 3.4 hp.

I must be the only one not wanting to spend that much time above 6K RPMs with the stock oil pump nut.

Last edited by Drewfus2101; 09-24-2012 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:32 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by E46330Man View Post
I heard doing headers will unleash alot of power in these cars, where did you get your headers from.....im very happy to see it will pull alot better with the power programmer.........Im looking at doing an AFE CAI, what kind do you have?? as well as the CAI i wanted to do a magnaflow custom catback setup.... i would hope to gain around 10-12 HP for my effort
Hey man- sorry for the delay- ya headers added a lot of power... And sound- I had to wire in an o2 sim ( see my posts for the link) I went through eBay- used trader nas- I've heard bimmer brakes makes nice ones too- I use an Afe pro dry s filter on a custom intake setup- oil free is definitely the way to go with our finicky maf sensors- conforti shark and power programmer are the same tunes
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:37 PM   #12
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:59 PM   #13
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:58 AM   #14
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While I can certainly recommend the Shark Injector, a custom tune is always the best option.

Personally, I would recommend waiting to do any kind of software flashes until you have "the basics" down, as all the N/A mods kinda "stack" on top of another.
Example:
1) true CAI (Dinan CF), or if you can't find one or make one, the AFE Stage 1 is probably the best of the "RAM Air intakes"
2) Headers (Supersprint is the best but most expensive IME), you want ideally equal length mandrel-bent tubular stepped headers; having them coated by SwainTech is worth the money (huge decrease in underhood temps, and containing the heat improves the scavenging effects of proper equal length headers)

Also:
3) Header-back Exhaust (with headers, I have found that the RE DMS is the best choice, at least of those I've tried)
4) Underdrive Pulleys (TMS/RE/etc, frees up some rwhp/rwtq by reducing parasitic losses, makes power throughout the Rev Range but peak power will likely only just break into double digits; does seem to scale somewhat as overall power increases)
5) Lightweight Flywheel + Clutch (works in essentially the same way as the pulleys, giving you more of tthe power you are already making;makes eengine speed much more responsive during shifts, whether dropping or while blipping throttle)
6) More Aggressive Differential (could be a 3.15, 3.23, 3.38, 3.46, or even 3.64; essentially a torque Multiplier, each gear willbe shorter and you sacrifice top speed for acceleration, so finding a balance is key which for me (non-M) is the 3.23ish; HIGHLY recommended is to go for an LSD, and while the more "basic" 3-clutch types work fine, I have tried all different kinds and havingdone so, I run OS Giken LSD's on every car tthat has an LSD, with a few clutch plates WPC treated for smoother lock-up)
7) UUC EVO3 SSK + DSSR + Transmission Bushings + Diff/Motor Mounts (the SSK/DSSR, and I recommend the ZHP knob as well, don't make power but they do greatly improve the "fun factor"; UUC "Race" trans mounts w enforcement cups pretty much eliminate the transmission movement and are very beneficial when shifting under heavy load or under high lateral acceleration; the motor and diff mounts/bushings (AKG/UUC/BW/TMS/PF) keep the rest of the drivetrain taut, for example the engine is not able to flex anywhere close to as much as it does w stock bushings, and while it MAY result in +1-2rwtq (no clue, never dyno'd them to see) the primary benefit is having all the drivetrain components much more "locked together", working much more in sync; NVH increase isn't that bad for me, with AKG 75D/UUC Race + Enforcers, and even with TMS/BW Solid Bushings/Mounts (Diff/Subframe/Transmission/etc; engine w semi-solid) it's still streetable though the increase in NVH may be excessive to most)
8) Heat Reduction via Coatings/Wraps/Blankets/Shields which when used strategically will decrease IAT (for example, I ran a Dinan CF long tube CAI w AFE ProDryS cone filter, modified AFE Stg1 Heatshield w "traditional" insulation on the inside and outside as well as Gold Foil applied as best as possible to the outside which acts as a thermal barrier by reflecting heat; the MAF housing was wrapped w the Gold Foil, the intake "boot" ie the intake tubing between the TB and MAF was replaced w Samco Sport multi-layer insulated silicone tubing, and the Hamann CF Foglight/Brake Duct Surround + TMS CF Brake Cooling Kit were slightly modified to direct a good portion of air right into the AFE filter; lastly, I used some 14GA high quality aluminum and essentially extended the AFE Heatshield downward by mocking up the shape w cardboard and then having a machinist friend cut it perfectly and even score the "fold lines" after which I painted it with black "high heat rresistant" paint, put rubber U channel moulding around the entire thing to eliminate the sharp edges, and did the same insulation + gold foil as on the AFE Heatshield... The results were much better than anticipated, but I had also replaced all coolant lines w Samco Sport insulated silicone, the radiator was upgraded to the Zionsville aluminum w integrated expansion tank, the front end was "sealed up" to prevent air from going anywhere but through the radiator, and the PWM-controlled fan mounted as "pull" usinga CF shroud aallowing me to somewhat insulate the exposed sides of the rad/expansion tank)
9) "Air Scoops" like AFE can be effective but the gains aren't substantial (I had the same friend who Machinedtthe Heatshield extension look at the "scoops" and he had a set made by the next day after taking measurements, which have nearly 3x thearea of the commercialones, are made of fairly tthick aluminum (which have since been treated by SwainTech), and are much better shaped to the kidney grills; another friend and fellow BMW enthusiast had been learning how to properly make things from carbon fiber (very experienced w fiberglass already) and has the equipment needed to produce hand-laid dry CF items, which he did for himself and I many times (very high quality CF, I guess I should say was as it's been a year, for $75/m*2 bought in bulk of 75m*2 or more ffrom his supplier), including the aforementioned rad/fan shroud, but also a pair of "improved" intake snorkel things (ICR thename, but tthe piece above the radiator, very front top of engine bay, that moves air from the "scoops" to the factory airbox); trial-and-error resulted in a piece that has far more internal space due to a more gentle curve radius, and the "neck" is huge compared to stock while also "dipping" lower, enough that the airflow is routed to the cone of the true CAI; he Machined a hole in the Heatshield, I put the U/C channel moulding around said hole, and the "neck" of the piece extended thru, curving slightly and therefore keeping it as well aimed as possible at the filter; the "arm" was a separate piece from the main section, like the OEM, so that if either of us changed to a different intake from the Dinan, it could be swappedffor one that much more closely follows the OEM piece; we designed, but (at least so far) have not actually made, a version VERY similar to the GruppeM E46M piece in appearance, where it's a single huge piece and the "neck" actually functions as most of the Heatshield and the entire top cover... His '05 330Ci ZHP still has the Dinan carbon fiber intake, tho, so no changes have been nnecessary beyond what he's done thus far)
10) Camshafts are the best of the NA mods that don't involve digging into the bottom end, and I have found that despite the common belief otherwise, the gains are present across the powerband, increasing significantly at around 4k+, but NO loss in torque in fact the torque delivery is MUCH smoother and notably flatter on my M3 (328Ci is now TS SC'ed, has been for long enough that I ddon't feel confident in my memory regarding the differences aside from the broader observations already stated; since this isn't about the S54, though, I will use my friend's 330Ci ZHP as the basis for my comparisons (one of my best friends since childhood, he has beenbig into BBMW since not long after myself, and we basically modified our cars "together", consequently the extent to which his is mmodified is at least equivalent to mine in most areas, although his ZHP is naturally aspirated vs my 328Ci FI, and while both cars retain nothing of their original suspension, my stronger focus on track use vs his focus on having an extremely high performance Street car that is fully ready for the 2-4 yearly track days (he does more autocross, as he recently said that he is trying to catch up to me in terms of driving, and feels that autocross will help form a solid foundation with regard to control and "technical" driving) so where I run JRZ RS Pro's/Pillow-ball Mount Camber Plates/Bearing mount TMS Adj RCA's/a mix of solid+semi solid+Delrin (AKG's highest durometer "levels") bushings and mounts/ME "Race" 1pc Front Tower Brace + Rear Tower Brace w Full "X" bracing for both the subframe and the differential/a 28-clutch OS Giken 3.23:1 LSD/CF CSL roof w less than 2lb of insulation+the Alcantara Headliner/etc, his setup consists of KW Clubsports (actually my "old" ones, sold to him very cheap w just a few K miles)/Vorschlag Stg2 camber plates/standard mount TMS Adj RCA's/AKG+RE+TMS poly or Delrin bushings and mounts/ME 1pc "Race" F+R solid tower braces without the X braces/custom 3-clutch 3.46:1 LSD/CF sunroof delete panel/etc)... Regarding the cams, he's had a few sets: originally, he kept the ZHP cams but did a full "head job" (porting/"polishing", intake+exhaust port and manifold matching, +1mm intake and exhaust valve sizing, hand fitted valve seat polishing, entire interior surface lightly smoothed to eliminate hot spots and I suppose improve flow, etc) while upgrading the entire rest of the valvetrain w 1pc Inconel oversized valves (1/3rd lighter than stock, approx), stiffer springs, titanium retainers, etc. This was when he and I both repaired/upgraded our VANOS systems w Beisan parts, him for his ZHP and me for my M3, and also upgraded the oil pumps w VAC parts and replaced the CCV w the cold climate versions/new SAP's w Samco Sport silicone hoses as well/removed and cleaned ICV's (neither needed replaced at all)/he removed his TB and replaced w a Dinan BBTB (after further machining to smoothen airflow, match the IM to the BBTB, and "razor edge" the butterfly plate) and we replaced the OEM ITB's on mine w the VAC BBITB's (I would not recommend unless you are or know a highly talented machinist as OOTB the fitment was bad and there were multiple other issues; however, he was able to fix the assembly to even better than "how it should have been", making fitment perfect, perfectly sized runners/throats, no "sticky plates", etc; he's been on thellookout for an M3 and we're going to attempt to make CF ITB-IM spacer to mostly eliminate heat transfer into the TB's, likely won't make noticeable power but should improve consistency + greatly reduce the cooldown time), replaced a number of other hoses w Samco, this is when we tapped the fuel rails for -AN Fittings and swapped the stock lines for double walled SS braided lines all the way back and the same for brake lines (same exact size and length for the brake lines, but instead of SS only at the end, now they are entirely), and upgraded the fuel pumps on both to 270lph units. The gains weren't big, but the much lighter valvetrain + flowbenched head (much improved breathing) + BBTB + further reduced IAT + perfect VANOS had a profound impact on the attitude of the car, and power below the curve was greatly improved while top end showed a lot of potential but limited by the ZHP cams/6500rpm Redline. Next the ZHP cams were swapped for Schrick 272's, both cars had the injectors upgraded to higher flow rate Bosch Gen 3, and a second custom Dyno Tune for him (my car was awaiting some parts) made a HUGE difference! The torque curve was flatter, idle quality wasn't adversely affected, but from about 3300-3500rpm to the new Redline of 7100rpm, it pulled ferociously. GB got us the ATI dampeners, so I could run my M above 8500/significantly increase Redline for 328Ci, and it allowed him to finally take advantage of using Underdrive Pulleys and a lightweight flywheel/clutch assembly which he'd held off on due to the few horror stories about running both without the damper. THUS, custom pprofile CatCams (I believe they're around 282 intake), a stage 2 semi-organic clutch and 8.5lb flywheel (total weight of around 21lbs) w new TOB and Delrin clutch pedal bushing, UUC Race transmission bushings w enforcement cups, EVO3 SSK+DSSR and new Delrin bushings AKG 75D diff/AKG engine mounts, Zionsville oil cooler (both of us; upgraded lines), VAC Ultralight Underdrive Pulleys (and the rest of the pulleys not ubderdriven he Machined custom lightweight ones out of billet for both of us), and after discussing how often he drove the car vs worked on it decided to follow my lead and switch to Titanium valves (extremely light, but Ferrea aren't cheap). This is the heart of his current setup, and while he's waiting for his OS Giken 3.35:1 diff, he's putting down some impressive numbers. He's strongly considering even more aggressive cams, around the 288-292 range, and with yet another Dyno tune, along with a carbon driveshaft and lighter brakes (currently ST60 355 and ST40 348) and wheels (currently HRE 3pc forged 19x8.5 and 19x10) he should be able to pull on E46M's...
11) UNSPRUNG WEIGHT! The more you lose, the more you benefit, in every aspect of the car's performance from acceleration to braking to handling to comfort.
11.1) Lighter Wheels, square setup for more neutral handling unless you have extensive enough suspension mods and enough power to benefit from staggered (18's are the sweet spot for comfort/handling and weight/cost; APEX ARC-8 are a grea, iinexpensive, lightweight but strong wheel. 18x8.5f and 18x9r shaves weight, and with 245's front and 255's rear, gives you a wider contactpatch; if youhhave the money, Volk/BBS/J-Line and others make quality forged lightweight 19s)
11.2) Lighter and More Powerful Brakes, starting with Wilwood on the lower end of the price scale and going to AP Racing and PFC at the higher end (I have AP Monobloc 6P/355mm J-hook and 4P/348mm J-hook 2pc Floating Rotors and it dropped over 10lbs a corner despite the increase in size and IMMENSE increase in capacity; Brembo aside from the GTR's and StopTech aside from the Trophy aren't worthwhile IMO/IME; Wilwood Dyna-Lite, AP Racing Radi-CAL, and PFC are what to get; stainless steel brake lines and a quality fluid, I prefer Motul RBF600, are beneficial regardless of the brakes themselves; slotted rotors are the best type, avoid drilled)
12) VANOS repair/upgrade via Beisan
13) SS Clutch Line + CDV Delete
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