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Old 10-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #1
BB BMW
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Placing Jack Stands Under Car

What is the best way to jack up a BMW and place Jackstands underneath it.
I need to remove both front wheels.
After jacking up the car at the jack points on the side, where do I place a jackstand so that I can lower the jack and move to the other side of the car?

What are the best locations for jackstands? (front and rear)

Thanks
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #2
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AaaHaaa

Before you guys flame me for not searching, I found what I was looking for.
I wasn't wording it correctly in the search.

However.......any suggestions will be appreciated.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:59 PM   #3
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Good save!

http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_jacking.shtml

The only difference is that newer non-Ms do not have a central jack point, so don't try to jack up on the subframe/engine brace.

And BTW about 6 million other forums members have the same quote in their sig, a little played out.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:25 PM   #4
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Good save!

http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_jacking.shtml

The only difference is that newer non-Ms do not have a central jack point, so don't try to jack up on the subframe/engine brace.

And BTW about 6 million other forums members have the same quote in their sig, a little played out.
newer as in what year moving forward?
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:42 PM   #5
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newer as in what year moving forward?
Newer as in 9/01+ MY02 cars with aluminum reinforcement plates versus the triangular black tubular steel crossbrace.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:56 PM   #6
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Newer as in 9/01+ MY02 cars with aluminum reinforcement plates versus the triangular black tubular steel crossbrace.
hmmmm

My 01 330ci I used to jack from the circle on my aluminum reinforcement plate. It didn't dent or deform at all, so far my new 03 I have only used ramps. Would the sedans be different from the coupes?

Last edited by zander271; 10-16-2012 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:00 PM   #7
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hmmmm

My 01 330ci I used to jack from the circle on my aluminum reinforcement plate. It didn't dent or deform at all, so far my new 03 I have only used ramps. Would the sedans be different from the coupes?
Not sure. maybe coupes have a different plate? too lazy to look up part #s
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:41 PM   #8
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And BTW about 6 million other forums members have the same quote in their sig, a little played out.
I've had that in my sig for years. (I have'nt seen any others)

There are also millions of black ZHP's around here, are they played out?

Thanks for you input anyway.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #9
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When you jack up from the front center jack point, make sure you chock your rear wheels and put on the e-brake and have the car in gear...remember to chock when only lifting from the rear center jack point.

Lower it slowly onto the the jack stands under your jack pads, BB...and keep the jack there.

If you can't get the jack under the center jack point, you could just drive up on a 2x10 to get enough extra room to see and position the jack. I can get mine under without getting the car up a little, but it's much easier on me to just drive onto my 4 homemade ramps...a 2x10 with a 1x10 on top...I also put a 2x4 at the end to stop me from going too far.

Also, you know, depending on what you're doing, you could just jack up one side from jack pad and put something under the car in case the jack falls...like a spare tire. Just work on one side at a time.

GL!
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:16 PM   #10
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And make sure you're using a level HARD surface. So no yards or inclined drives.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:12 PM   #11
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And make sure you're using a level HARD surface. So no yards or inclined drives.
or mustaches
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:40 PM   #12
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Hmmm just took a quick peak under my car...the bump looks different.

My coupes looked like this (01 330ci)

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330..._Pan/ES130062/

I used a hockey puck as the cushion for the round bit.

For vehicles with production date up to 02/2001

My sedan looks like this (03 330i)

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330...Body/ES128604/

-For vehicles with production date from 02/2001

Looks like my hockey puck will not fit now.


So it looks like there are 3 different types of reinforcement that that BMW uses.

A reinforcement bar, and 2 different metal plates. Maybe the earlier plates are heavier duty that the later ones?

Last edited by zander271; 10-16-2012 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:29 PM   #13
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If you put the front end on ramps and then jack up the rear, you need chocks to stop the front wheels rolling off the ramps. The transmission and e-brake only act on the rear wheels - as soon as they're off the ground, the front end can roll, and so can your jack. If you're lucky, that will just shove the jack handle where you really don't want it, as 3400 pounds of car comes back down the ramps. Possibly a lot worse.

I mention this because the link in Post #3 doesn't.

Oh, sorry, just noticed dmax mentioned this too. But it's specially important if you're on ramps at the front.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:05 PM   #14
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Front:

- Chock both rear wheels. You also have a wheel chock in the back of your trunk
- Use factory jack, or another floor jack preferably, to lift up the front end slightly, just enough to get a jack + wood under the car. This can also be accomplished by driving the car on a 2x4, or even ramps.
- Place a block of wood on the jack to distribute weight, put it directly under the frame rail. You'll know what it is when you see it, it runs most of the length of the vehicle. There is one on each side.
- Jack to desired height
- Place jack stand under rubber jack point
- Lower car onto jack stand
- Repeat on other side

Rear:

- Chock both front wheels
- Look for large U-brace in front of differential
- Place a block of wood, or a rubber pad of some sort, onto jack
- Jack directly on U-brace to desired height
- Place jack stands under factory rubber jack points
- Slowly lower onto jack stands

Getting the car off jack stands is the reverse of the above.

I've done this many times and have had no damage whatsoever. Nothing is bent, everything is good, and I've inspected them thoroughly to make sure. The car can be supported by those frame rails. In fact, the Bentley manual mentions those as valid safe jack points in a few places. Remember, weight distribution is important. It is not ideal to have all the weight on one part of the rail, even though I am sure it can support it. A big block of wood to distribute it is always best.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zell View Post
Front:

- Chock both rear wheels. You also have a wheel chock in the back of your trunk
- Use factory jack, or another floor jack preferably, to lift up the front end slightly, just enough to get a jack + wood under the car. This can also be accomplished by driving the car on a 2x4, or even ramps.
- Place a block of wood on the jack to distribute weight, put it directly under the frame rail. You'll know what it is when you see it, it runs most of the length of the vehicle. There is one on each side.
- Jack to desired height
- Place jack stand under rubber jack point
- Lower car onto jack stand
- Repeat on other side

Rear:

- Chock both front wheels
- Look for large U-brace in front of differential
- Place a block of wood, or a rubber pad of some sort, onto jack
- Jack directly on U-brace to desired height
- Place jack stands under factory rubber jack points
- Slowly lower onto jack stands

Getting the car off jack stands is the reverse of the above.

I've done this many times and have had no damage whatsoever. Nothing is bent, everything is good, and I've inspected them thoroughly to make sure. The car can be supported by those frame rails. In fact, the Bentley manual mentions those as valid safe jack points in a few places. Remember, weight distribution is important. It is not ideal to have all the weight on one part of the rail, even though I am sure it can support it. A big block of wood to distribute it is always best.
I know you don't mean harm but do not ever jack up the car from the aluminum reinforcement near the differential. It should be lifted from the subframe body itself. As far as the rest of the points go, only the four jack pads around the perimeter of the vehicle. TIS reinforces this.

Under no circumstances should you lift the car by the "frame rails." Those aren't really rails, but merely boxed sheet metal. They're not meant to support the weight in the car in one spot as they aren't reinforced/designed for that purpose. Any creased/boxed sections contribute to the overall structural integrity of the vehicle and are not meant for lifting purposes. You can easily poke a hole through your floor pan if you do this, ,especially if the jacking area is small (like a small auto parts store chinese jack)
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:44 PM   #16
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I know you don't mean harm but do not ever jack up the car from the aluminum reinforcement near the differential. It should be lifted from the subframe body itself. As far as the rest of the points go, only the four jack pads around the perimeter of the vehicle. TIS reinforces this.

Under no circumstances should you lift the car by the "frame rails." Those aren't really rails, but merely boxed sheet metal. They're not meant to support the weight in the car in one spot as they aren't reinforced/designed for that purpose. Any creased/boxed sections contribute to the overall structural integrity of the vehicle and are not meant for lifting purposes. You can easily poke a hole through your floor pan if you do this, ,especially if the jacking area is small (like a small auto parts store chinese jack)
That's what I was afraid of. I haven't found any definitive answers on it at all, that's the problem I've had.

Some people have said you can hold them up by those "rail" things (though I just call them frame rails since they look like them and it seems to just be a carry-over from the old days), others have not. Honestly I do not know. I've always been nervous doing so, but it seems like it holds fairly well with a good block of wood. I remember a few places in which Bentley mentioned them.

I don't know, I need to do more research. I got most of that information from this thread:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=348089





It also seems to be a widely debated topic:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=412799&page=2

I would greatly appreciate it if you could help explain that to me, or if someone that used to be a tech can let me know. I've always gone right around that green spot with a plank of wood.

Edit: That part is called "Rear Engine Support," P/N 41117047885.



http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...41&fg=10&hl=10

Thoughts, anyone? It looks like it's connected to part 1, "Front Engine Support," which is a very strong part. I am also noticing part 9, "Engine Support Reinforcement," connects seemingly right where it would join to that "Front Engine Support" (if it in fact does), which would make me wonder if this part actually is connected directly to "Front Engine Support." In that case, I would imagine that the closer to the front you are, the more stress you'd put on that engine support rather than the floor pan.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #17
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Q
Iím attempting to replace the brake pads on my 2003 525i. I want to put the front end on jack stands, but it looks like there is only one place to put the floor jack, to raise the car on each side. If Iím using that place for the jack, where do I put the jack stand, before I remove the jack?

A
We find that the late model BMWs, that have full splash shields under the car, can be a bit frustrating in respect to placing jack stands. If the front of the uni-body frame rails or the engine crossmember are exposed, you can place the stands or the jack there. If using the frame rails, place the jack or the stands at the point just before the frame units curve up, along the firewall. You can also use the control arm bushing mounting points as a temporary stand location. These are often not covered by the splash panels. Alternately, you can jack the vehicle up, temporarily place a jack stand under the control arm (or something that would keep the car from falling if the jack failed (keep the jack in-place), remove the splash panels to expose frame rails, engine crossmembers, etc. You can then re-jack from either a frame rail, the crossmember or the rocker panel lifting pads and reposition the stands on the rails, crossmember or the rocker panel pads.
http://blog.bavauto.com/6718/bmw-lat...8-e39-e46-etc/

That's convincing enough for me. Green location it is.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #18
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http://blog.bavauto.com/6718/bmw-lat...8-e39-e46-etc/

That's convincing enough for me. Green location it is.
Eh... I'd take anything BavAuto says with a grain of salt. They're just a vendor with the ability to blog. For the trillionth time, those are NOT frame rails. If you ever see a video on how cars are constructed, the entire unibody is stamped from sheet metal or sheet aluminum. Although those parts are "boxed" for strength (half boxed really), they're not meant to take concentrated loads the size of a jackpad. If you lifted the entire "rail" evenly on BOTH sides of the car, that may be permissible. But even then, I'd try not to. I've seen those deformed on BMWs before from botched jacking attempts. I've seen a camry drivers seat tilt to one side due to someone trying to jack on the "frame rail."

They're not frame rails. These cars are NOT body-on-frame design. There is no frame.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:18 AM   #19
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http://blog.bavauto.com/6718/bmw-lat...8-e39-e46-etc/

That's convincing enough for me. Green location it is.
They are still called frame rails, regardless of body-on-frame or unibody design.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:39 PM   #20
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center point behind motor with jack, stand under front jack pads each side, drive up on 2x4 to get jack under car
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