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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
Have all your A/V and electronics questions answered here. Ipods, A/V, Radar Detectors Oh My! Sponsored by Bavarian Soundwerks |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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My new system pics- ski pass sub
Just finished installing the new system in my e46 convertible.
-Boston Acoustics SC60 components in the front doors -Boston Acoustics SE50 components in the rear -Infinity Reference 8" sub -Alpine MRP-F300 4 ch amp for the front components and the sub I built the custom ski-pass sealed box to get the exact internal volume specified with minimal loss of trunk space. The setup gives me more than enough bass with great clarity of instrumental and vocals from the speakers. I can finally go top down on the freeway and hear my stereo! I'm currently working on porting the ski pass cushion to complete the setup. Having pulled all of the panels, wiring and installing the system, and putting it all back together, I'd be happy to share thoughts/advice with anyone considering the same type of setup. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Looks good! Care to share any more details on how you made the box? I have a M3 vert and I plan on upgrading my sound system too. I want to go with a JL 8W7 in a sealed enclosure like yours. My plan was to buy it from http://fgseonline.com/, but after seeing this, I almost want to attempt it myself. Was it hard to make? How heavy is it?
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Good job!
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Thanks! It wasn't hard to make at all, just a bit time consuming. I spent a good 6-7 hours on the construction, then another half hour on sealing and carpeting the box.
Materials- -1 sheet of 3/4 inch MDF (2ft X 4ft) $11 -A pack of wood screws $2 -Some sort of sealer (I used dap quik seal and sealed the external seams after the box was put together- worked fine). $3 -Vinyl for the front $5 from JoAnn fabrics -Carpet for the rest (had leftover from another project) Probably $10 max -Speaker wire terminal $5 from ebay -L-brackets $5 Total=$41 Tools Used -Table Saw -Drill -Circular Saw -Cordless Power Screwdriver -Dremmel with sanding wheel attachment (used this to make the indentations on the sides which will be necessary to fit the box in) You could also use a router. I basically made the front part of the box first- the part that sits into the ski pass. From there, I knew the length and width of the ski pass opening into the trunk, so the only calculation left was the depth necessary on the rear part to give me my full internal optimal volume of .35 cu ft. I think my final depth of the rear portion was between 7-8". Once the two portions of the box were completed, I screwed the rear portion to the front. I would also note that I chose an 8" over a 10" because, although a 10" will fit in the ski pass, the 10" would require a greater volume box. Finally, to avoid rattles and the box moving around, I secured it in place with simple L-brackets into the existing ski-pass bolt holes, and reused the ski pass bolts. Worked perfectly and the sub box is bolted down nicely. No rattles, and great bass. I would guess the box weighs about 15 lbs with the sub installed (total guess though). |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the write up. That's lighter than I thought it would be. I just ordered a JL 8W7 and it requires .875 cu ft., so mine will unfortunately have to be a lot bigger, hopefully it will not stick out too far in the trunk. I might need to look at making the box wider as soon as it clears the ski pass.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Yeah, that is much larger. Keep in mind that if you craft the box to be larger in the back, you won't be able to slide it into the ski pass as one piece. You'll need to construct the front box and the trunk portion separately and screw them together through the ski pass. The only downside of that is it won't be easily removable.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Could you give the width and height of the back of the box (the portion that goes through the ski pass)? Thanks.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Width- 8"
Height- 8.5" Both of these dimensions left good deal of wiggle room through the ski pass. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Ok thanks. I was just trying to determine if a could make a box where it would fit through the ski pass via the trunk instead of inside the cabin. I was thinking of making a "T" shape box and I could insert the middle into the ski pass, and therefore I could make the box much wider in the back so it would not take so much depth. With those dimensions that would be pretty tight though, unless you had .5" to spare on each side.
Last edited by MikeS123; 11-29-2012 at 09:33 AM. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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It would be tight, but you might have enough space to get half an inch on each side. It's hard for me to tell now that the box is in there.
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#11 |
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Mod
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Nice job! Looks oem in the trunk as well
__________________
Follow my cross country drive to Bimmerfest West 2013
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=987217 ![]() Youtube - Electric Fan Swap/Aux Fan Removal - Projector Retrofit - E46 Bulb Guide |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Are you still able to put your armrest back in?
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Haven't tried yet. It will definitely fit, but the plastic in the back of the armrest might come into contact with the woofer. My next step (when I have a free weekend) will be porting the armrest with a speaker grill. This will allow me to replace the armrest while ensuring it won't come into contact with the sub as well as ensuring full sound delivery to the cabin.
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#14 |
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Registered User
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great build! just did mine on my e46m vert too...but still have the 10w3 in a temp sealed box u can get from best buy till i decide if i should go with a wickedcas option or your skipass option. i'm curious though. would u be able to show your amp positioning with pics? thanks!
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