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Old 01-10-2013, 02:24 PM   #1
HallisterJ1
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Turn car off, turn it on, extreme shaking.

I have no check engine lights.

Example: You're driving pretty hard through the city but not racing, you stop and park at Vons to grab a drink, it takes about 5min. You get back in the car, start it up and you slowly leave and the car starts shaking like it's going to blow up internally, but if I give it gas it will generally go away. This problem has never stalled or stopped my car, it's just given extreme discomfort and worry on what's wrong in my engine.

For some reason my car likes going down hills, when it goes up a hill it will start doing this shaking thing if I give it too much gas.

Quick Parts History (5< miles)
FCAB's
Fuel Pump/Fuel Filter
Cooling System Overhaul (E46 Mango'd)
OFHG, VCG
Air Filter
ICV Cleaned, TB Cleaned
Spark Plugs/Boots
Slotted/Drilled Centric Rotors/Brakes
Both Pre-o2 Sensors
All Air Boots Replaced

I have an engine mount/tranmission mount/rear differential bushing waiting to be installed.

Any thoughts would be SO helpful.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #2
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Sounds like motor mounts to me.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:35 PM   #3
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If that's the case, that is the best thing I've ever heard considering I'm just waiting to slap that on. Any other thoughts?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #4
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Highly doubt it's the engine mounts. worn mounts will just make the drivetrain sloppy. sounds like your car is just idling low or misfiring. that means you have vacuum leaks/ICV malfunction or other running problems.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #5
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Highly doubt it's the engine mounts. worn mounts will just make the drivetrain sloppy. sounds like your car is just idling low or misfiring. that means you have vacuum leaks/ICV malfunction or other running problems.
No misfires, had that checked along with cylinder tests. I was scared I blew my head gaskets months ago. I'll check the leaks, and check the ICV.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #6
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Highly doubt it's the engine mounts. worn mounts will just make the drivetrain sloppy. sounds like your car is just idling low or misfiring. that means you have vacuum leaks/ICV malfunction or other running problems.
I'm going to +1 the misfires.

It did it once before for me, then again last week.

Car starts up fine, start it up again and it starts shaking horribly.
I misfired on 3 cylinders.

Although for me it's only been when it's cold.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:52 PM   #7
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should clean/check maf sensor, double check coils, and scan for codes even though there is no CEL.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #8
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should clean/check maf sensor, double check coils, and scan for codes even though there is no CEL.
MAF has been cleaned so much, it's the first thing I clean when I rip my air box off. Coils though...I'll check that out tonight.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #9
lsteg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HallisterJ1 View Post
I have no check engine lights.

Example: You're driving pretty hard through the city but not racing, you stop and park at Vons to grab a drink, it takes about 5min. You get back in the car, start it up and you slowly leave and the car starts shaking like it's going to blow up internally, but if I give it gas it will generally go away. This problem has never stalled or stopped my car, it's just given extreme discomfort and worry on what's wrong in my engine.

For some reason my car likes going down hills, when it goes up a hill it will start doing this shaking thing if I give it too much gas.

Quick Parts History (5< miles)
FCAB's
Fuel Pump/Fuel Filter
Cooling System Overhaul (E46 Mango'd)
OFHG, VCG
Air Filter
ICV Cleaned, TB Cleaned
Spark Plugs/Boots
Slotted/Drilled Centric Rotors/Brakes
Both Pre-o2 Sensors
All Air Boots Replaced

I have an engine mount/tranmission mount/rear differential bushing waiting to be installed.

Any thoughts would be SO helpful.
missed that part.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:09 PM   #10
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Misfires won't always show as a CEL especially if it's only the first time it's happened. How long has this been going on OP?
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:35 PM   #11
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cam position sensor?
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:27 PM   #12
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^^ thats a likely culprit also, when my cps went bad, I had hard time keeping the engine from stalling. I distinctly remember reving while the revs dropped stalled the car.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #13
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^^ thats a likely culprit also, when my cps went bad, I had hard time keeping the engine from stalling. I distinctly remember reving while the revs dropped stalled the car.
The picture with more codes was taken 10/11/12, and the one with less and after TB, ICV, DISA cleanings was taken last month, 12/15/12.

I always fill my car up, never letting it get to less then 1/4. I've never seafoamed or done fuel injection cleaner, maybe I should?
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:57 PM   #14
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How much gas do you have in your car? Sending units go bad...and if you're not filling the tank up, you could be short when gas drops below half and the sending unit needs to deliver gas to right side of tank with pump? Maybe?
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:59 PM   #15
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How much gas do you have in your car? Sending units go bad...and if you're not filling the tank up, you could be short when gas drops below half and the sending unit needs to deliver gas to right side of tank with pump? Maybe?
Or low fuel pressure. pump going bad.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:04 PM   #16
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He did the fuel pump and filter...so I was thinking about fuel delivery from left to right lobe...the sending unit fails too. But, unless it can fail 'soft' or unless OP never fills up his tank, that wouldn't explain his symptoms if they've been persistent for a while...and it sounds like they have been.

OP...as mentioned, scan for codes. The car will have something recorded about what you've been experiencing.

Oh, and the other thing is that if any of this work you did was prior to these symptoms, and you got them shortly thereafter, consider an issue with aftermarket parts, especially electronic things. You didn't happen to do something else prior that you don't think is in any way related, and thus didn't mention it, did you?
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #17
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He did the fuel pump and filter...so I was thinking about fuel delivery from left to right lobe...the sending unit fails too. But, unless it can fail 'soft' or unless OP never fills up his tank, that wouldn't explain his symptoms if they've been persistent for a while...and it sounds like they have been.

OP...as mentioned, scan for codes. The car will have something recorded about what you've been experiencing.

Oh, and the other thing is that if any of this work you did was prior to these symptoms, and you got them shortly thereafter, consider an issue with aftermarket parts, especially electronic things. You didn't happen to do something else prior that you don't think is in any way related, and thus didn't mention it, did you?
Mentioned everything, well not exactly...everything's been kept OEM on this car, except Lemforder for FCAB (Shop Recommended)

Angel Eyes 81-LED
Carbon Fiber Emblems

My battery is old though, I'll be replacing it in a bit.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:33 PM   #18
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Mentioned everything, well not exactly...everything's been kept OEM on this car, except Lemforder for FCAB (Shop Recommended)

Angel Eyes 81-LED
Carbon Fiber Emblems

My battery is old though, I'll be replacing it in a bit.
...and if it's not the exhaust flap, then I'm betting on battery.

Say you have a known low battery...drive it a bit to the store. Start it up...taking the last little bit of reserve the car has...and maybe your battery is low because the alt is delivering weaker voltage.

Do a cluster test (#9) for voltage both off and on. Check bat connections, grounds...
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #19
HallisterJ1
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...and if it's not the exhaust flap, then I'm betting on battery.

Say you have a known low battery...drive it a bit to the store. Start it up...taking the last little bit of reserve the car has...and maybe your battery is low because the alt is delivering weaker voltage.

Do a cluster test (#9) for voltage both off and on. Check bat connections, grounds...
Going to get a battery in the morning, nothing worked. Boots are all well connected, still brand new. ICV was clicking normally as it should, MAF re-cleaned...

I get it WORST when I'm on the freeway and it comes to dead stop in heavy traffic and I'm going 1-4mph, and then it'll start shaking and eventually get so bad the car sounds like its housing a jet engine, but it'll never stall or give me RPM problems, and it seems to go away once I drive off and maintain 60mph+ for a while.

As for the exhaust problem...would getting a new exhaust fix this problem? I was looking at getting one anyway.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:16 AM   #20
Mango
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Originally Posted by HallisterJ1 View Post
Mentioned everything, well not exactly...everything's been kept OEM on this car, except Lemforder for FCAB (Shop Recommended)

Angel Eyes 81-LED
Carbon Fiber Emblems

My battery is old though, I'll be replacing it in a bit.
Uhh... Lemforder IS OEM.

Genuine BMW is OE.

Do not get those terms mixed up.

And what is this forum saying? Exhaust flap causing stalls? battery causing stalls?? huh?? how???

OP: misfire and/or vacuum leak. When you experience these vibrations, take note at what your RPMs are and report back. Are they dipping around 500 RPM and below?
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