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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW! |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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Hooked up jumper cables incorrectly
Hello everyone. Hate to admit it but I was working in the dark (in sub zero temperatures) up here in Northern Minnesota and accidently hooked up my jumper cables incorrectly. Have never done this before EVER until now. I noticed the sparks and smoke and quickly unhooked the cables but it was too late. I do not see any visable damage to the vehicle or battery itself, but I cannot get the vehicle to start. I have check many fuses pertaining to starting the vehilce and havent found a blown one. The battery is charging and holding its charge as well. The dash, radio, display, lights, etc all are working normal. The vehicle will only "click" when I attempt to start-wont turn over at all. Does anyone know what else I should look for? I have other vehicles so I havent been driving this one since it happened (about a month ago). Worked on it in the cold all afternoon and cant get any results. Even ran some heat on the engine block and battery to warm it up (its outside in my driveway). The car is a 2002 BMW 325xi. Would be battery be toast after 3 seconds? Alternator? Starter? Any input would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Auto or manual? If manual try giving it a push start and see what happens.
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Huntington Beach -Surf City USA
Posts: 15,089
My Ride: M3 & 323Ci (sold)
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well you could have done some damage but...
it sounds to me the battery doesn't have enough charge to start it still if its clicking. i would jump start it again but the right way. or likely replace the battery. the Alternator charges the battery and/or runs the car after its started, so the alt has nothing to do with it not starting.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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There is probably a fuse you blew
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#5 |
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Registered User
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I believe there are two cables running from the battery. A small one to supply almost everying on the car, and then a large one to hook into the starter and alternator supply. Sounds like you're not getting voltage to the large cable.
Test the voltage at the large cable on the back of the alternator to confirm my theory. Could be there is a large fuse on this large cable. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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There are also fusible links located behind/above the fuse panel in the glove box that require a screwdriver to change and there is an explosive disconnect on the big positive cable from the battery to the starter. One or more of these could be blown. You also could have blown some electronics modules in the car. It is not uncommon for expensive modules to blow first to protect the 25 cent fuse.
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#7 |
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Stay stock my friends!
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There is, I'm almost certain, a large fuse...50-100 amp hiding somewhere. This has happened before.
One thing...were you jumping from the trunk or hood? I don't know where this fuse is, but someone will know. Not in e-box, I don't think. Might be behind the fuse panel...but hang on...I'll see what Bentley says... brb
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#8 |
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Stay stock my friends!
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Okay, main harness fuse...200 amp...behind liner by battery...little wire feeds into one side of the fuse...main cable keeps going past. Bet it's that.
There are large fuses behind fuse panel...see 102 (80 amp) B+ term/DME mail relay/ECM/Fuse pack in e-box (hmmm...see if you have power there...if not...could be this, and 105 (50 amp) ignition switch
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![]() This huge woman, like 400 pounds comes up to me and says, "Doug, I would rock your world." I replied, "but I need to breathe." The girl in my sig:http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...highlight=dmax |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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If you're getting a click, start by charging/jumping the battery. Click indicates starter circuit is still intact, which means no blown fuse.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Not so fast. Two sources for power to starter. One directly from the battery for the motor, and the other from the ignition switch for the solenoid.
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
The fusible link shouldn't be blown from a brief short.
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#12 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I think all your conclusions in your first paragraph are correct. But you say a brief short. Technically this is not a short, but connecting one battery in series with another with low resistance heavy cables. That would give the potential for an immediate pulse of upwards of 500A! Takes a fuse out in milliseconds. |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Huntington Beach -Surf City USA
Posts: 15,089
My Ride: M3 & 323Ci (sold)
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i have already given the next step in diagnosing what is wrong. you're in the cold in MN so im inclined to think it's still the battery. although you say it's charging and holding a charge are you sure? just because the light and dash go on doesn't mean it has enough CCA to start the car. a low battery will light the dash lights.
next for those thinking it's a fuseable link or the battery cable fuse, if this is burned out tell me how the car is getting power for the dash, radio, lights and display?? the clicking sound is the solenoid for the starter. it can either be not enough power to start it or next would be the starter is faulty. if doing a proper/correct jump start doesn't get the car started and you're able to push start it (if manual) then it leads that the starter is likely the culprit. do things simple and in order of likely suspects before doing other hunts for possible reasons. right now that is eliminating the power source for the car to start. Battery.
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 5,172
My Ride: '06 330CiC, '03 M5
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Likely you have a bad starter, you were obviously using jumper cables because the engine would not start before the cables were hooked up backwards.
For some reason the xi cars seem to eat starters more often than other cars and the starter is a real PITA to replace. Try to get a hammer and bang on the starter, however, the starter is very tough to reach in these xi cars. If you get the car started, make sure your alternator is not damage and is charging correctly. Most components in the car have protection diodes that will cause a fuse to blow if reverse polarity happens. If your battery was fully charged, likely you did not get a chance to actually damage anything if you were quick to remove the backwards cables.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501 Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491 Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619 E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299 |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Haha, I had "connect two batteries in series" then erased it. Technically it is a short, because the circuit is closed! The first pos > neg connection was in series. The next was a direct/dead short.
Perhaps the best course of action for OP to to check continuity between pos battery and the underhood jump terminal if possible. I can't remember the exact location of fusible link, but I believe it's between those two. If not, just charge/jump and try again.
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#16 |
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Stay stock my friends!
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Alex is right...charging battery is best. If jumping, keep them on longer...rev donor car for 5 mins, and if it starts, don't stop for about 30 mins...it'll take some time to restore the battery.
__________________
![]() This huge woman, like 400 pounds comes up to me and says, "Doug, I would rock your world." I replied, "but I need to breathe." The girl in my sig:http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...highlight=dmax |
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#17 |
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Registered User
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Uhm, op does all your interior&trunk lights turn on?
This happen to me in texas and weeks if not days when giving someone a jump start and cable miss connected for few sec 2-5 Some reason: battery leaked : starter went out so did the alternator few weeks after the starter got replaced Moral of self experience story : if you do not know how old Battery or when last replaced starter & atlernator plus/ bearing Id just replace it all. $100 battery ( 3/5 year warranty ) Try bmaparts.com other parts: 2cent sent from phone to bimmer app |
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#18 |
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Registered User
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Fixed-Thank you all!
Hey everyone. Thank you so much for your time, knowledge, and suggestions. I could've sworn the battery was fine (it was virtually brand new-just a few months old) because everything was lighting up and working. Turns out I just replaced with another new battery and it started right up. It appears that three seconds of my error was enough to destroy a $165 batttery! The car runs and drives just fine. I love these BMW's. Lesson learned I guess. No matter how much of a hurry Im in, no matter what temperature, I will at least make sure I am working with a light! Thanks again to you all and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
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#19 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Huntington Beach -Surf City USA
Posts: 15,089
My Ride: M3 & 323Ci (sold)
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Gee, I wonder who said that from the beginning. And kept telling others this when they were going all over the place.
__________________
![]() ![]() OEM CSL WHEELS - OEM CSL BRAKES - OEM AUTOFOLD MIRRORS - CSL TRUNK - CSL DIFFUSER - AA SPORT TUNE - AA PULLEYS - BILSTEIN PSS9s - AUTOSOLUTIONS SSK CF CSL RACE LIP - NAVI HU - BMW PERFORMANCE CF STRUT BAR - BMW GROUP-N MTRMTS - UUC SS BRAKELINES, TRANS MOUNTS, RTABs - 4.10 BMW M-SPORT DIFF |
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#20 |
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Registered User
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