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Old 05-20-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
2000_328CI
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RRT Racing : An Active (Autowerke) Approach To 400 Horsepower In A 328Ci

For years, my friends have referred to my 3 as "The Turtle". Given the car's color and measly 200 horsepower, I can't say I blamed them. And so began the quest for power. I wanted to do something relatively unique and up to par with the rest of the modifications..

Initially I purchased an ESS kit from Toby out on the west coast. He was an awesome guy and the kit was in great condition, but I wasn't really ready for fully dive in and ended up selling the kit to another local. I ended up doing the same with a VF-E kit I purchased from another member on here. This time though it was because I realized that I wanted to include an intercooler and didn't want to tap the factory oil from the motor.. so, the kit went up on ebay and was shipped off to a guy building an E39 wagon (the updates have been pretty cool).

And thus began the conversations with Viral at Active who has been absolutely awesome to deal with. Our conversations go back almost two years and he's always been extremely responsive, supportive, encouraging. He helped me work with their team to secure a sponsorship, notified me the day the kit was pieced together, had tracking information for me the day it left the shop, and checked in to make sure it arrived without any headaches. At the day's end, we settled upon their Stage 2 kit with an Active intercooler, Rotrex blower (pushing 11-12 psi), an oil cooler for the blower, and all the other needed goodies.

As Active shipped off their kit, I researched and studied up on what additional pieces I'd need to ensure this went smoothly. I fortunately had the support of some key members of this forum including MalibuMafiaV and Anthony at Bimmerbrakes. One of the big questions that I had was how to run headers on the car given supersprint were impossible to find, ebay offered questionable quality, and his shop only had 330 headers. Anthony suggested (and RRT agreed) that we take his high quality racing headers, modify the exhaust side of the flange, and run them. After all, the 330 headers lined up fine on the motor side.. and we had to do custom exhaust fabrication anyhow.



Unboxing of Active Kit


I then needed gauges and some type of installation piece. So I got in touch with Prosport who was able to sponsor their halo series AFR and boost gauges and ATI provided the gauge pod (mickey mouse style)


At this point, we had all the major components... but I wanted to make this even better. So I reached out to AEM electronics who was able to provide their methanol injection kit along with their LED display. I still need to add a hobbs switch to the setup though to ensure every failsafe is in place.

So we now had the following :
--Active Autowerke Stage 2 kit
--Bimmerbrakes Headers
--AEM Electronics Methanol kit
--ProSport Gauges (AFR and Boost)
--ATI Gauge Pod

But it had to all go in. Naturally, I took it to the masters at RRT Racing in Dulles, VA : http://www.rrtracing.com/

Given RRT's racing heritage, expertise, and their familiarity with my vehicle (they built the custom exhaust and have done all mechanical work for years), we began discussing the project and ways to improve upon what's been done in the past. In total, the work alone took roughly two months (I told them I was in no rush to get the car back and they have countless fires they must put out for customers on tight racing deadlines) but the work is SO well worth it.

Stuart who is on this forum stopped by halfway through the build and snapped some these:






And then, after months in the shop, the call finally came in : "So ummm, your car is running and stuff" Mike said jokingly. After a number of test drives, checking for leaks, and ensuring everything was good to go, they took it to the dyno. Without meth, and with misfires in bank one (cylinders 1, 2, and 3), the car put up over 300 at the wheels on pump gas. The AFR levels were 12 across the board, 14 across the board, and 13 across the board with little fluctuation. I'm not really sure what caused the 12, 13, 14 variance but the good thing is that the AFRs were rather linear. RRT is diagnosing the misfires and then we'll re-dyno and tune with meth in place... they are anticipating roughly 340-350 wheel putting the car around 400-420 at the crank. The coil packs were changed out so not really sure what is causing the misfire.. could be that the spark plugs need to be a degree cooler.. also may swap out the fuel pump for the m3 variant.

I can not thank the team at RRT Racing enough for all their incredible work and support. Between the customization to the intercooler piping (they had to fabricate some of it from scratch as it wouldn't fit properly), the work they did with the AEM Meth kit (including a custom trunk installation that I'll post pictures of shortly), and all their patience... they are INCREDIBLE and I can't recommend a shop more!





This past weekend, I was in Carlisle, PA debuting the vehicle at Carlisle Performance & Style. The BMW was brought up by Meguiar's (one of my more recent sponsors) and took first place and I got to meet tons of new individuals.. a couple of which were E46Fanatics members.




Meguiars also really hooked me up with some quality products. Really to their team


Upon returning home, I had a few quick pictures taken for the forum





STATUS Racing also sponsored some new 4 point harnesses (for display purposes.. I don't use them on the road for safety)






Saving the best for last


Out of car video (day I picked it up)


In car




For kicks, here is my buddy's AA Stage 2.5 E46 M3... It makes my car feel so wimpy LMAO


A videographer is looking to do a small video on the vehicle so will keep this updated with additional media

Many many many thanks to :
- RRT Racing
- Active Autowerke
- Bimmerbrakes
- Prosport
- AEM Electronics


For those who will be attending Bimmerfest East in July, make sure to check out RRT Racing's vendor booth. The vehicle will be on display with their team available to answer any questions you may have about the work we did or other projects you're considering for your own ride
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:14 PM   #2
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Good to see the car has a set of testicles now! Gotta love boost.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:05 PM   #3
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Legit Chase!!!
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:12 PM   #4
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gr8 move.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:21 PM   #5
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Project Ninja Turtle : An Active (Autowerke) Approach To 400 Horsepower In A 32

Looks awesome man. Did you dyno it yet?


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:37 PM   #6
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Looks great.

When you get it running just right, post up your final numbers on "iceman00" Dyno thread in the Driveline sub forum. Preferably a Dynojet, Correction Factor set to SAE, w/ RPM and AFR.

Enjoy.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:40 PM   #7
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:06 AM   #8
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Oh... My... Gawd...

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Old 05-21-2013, 06:05 AM   #9
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Nice write up- the car looks awesome too!

Please post final numbers and the solution to the issues you are currently having.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:06 AM   #10
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This is awesome. RRT FTW, they really do it right.

So did you buy the kit before getting a leakdown test?
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:17 AM   #11
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Turtle power!

[bimmerapp]
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buy my sedan rear seats (gray leather)

sell me sedan A pillars!! (black fabric)
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by choxor View Post
Good to see the car has a set of testicles now! Gotta love boost.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer View Post
Legit Chase!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozen06 View Post
gr8 move.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iRide113 View Post
Oh... My... Gawd...

fapfapfapfapfapfap
Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post
Turtle power! [bimmerapp]
Thanks guys
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by HBizzo88 View Post
Looks awesome man. Did you dyno it yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by breiwa1 View Post
Nice write up- the car looks awesome too!

Please post final numbers and the solution to the issues you are currently having.
The car put up 303 with misfires and no meth. The expected result is between 330-340 with meth and misfire free. My main goal was just to get to 400 crank horespower... even though that's not really relevant (as all that matters is what you can put down to the wheels) that was the mark I was shooting for. We're going to dyno with Zak from Active remote tuning to try and get it just right.. but my goal isn't to pull every last horse out of the motor.. rather, to create a fun, powerful car that's reliable and testing (not pushing) limits
Quote:
Originally Posted by SK330ci View Post
Looks great.

When you get it running just right, post up your final numbers on "iceman00" Dyno thread in the Driveline sub forum. Preferably a Dynojet, Correction Factor set to SAE, w/ RPM and AFR.

Enjoy.
I'll definitely get those numbers for you guys. I have the initial runs and will get a screeshot next time I'm by the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsima325 View Post
i knew you were on Meth

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdny516 View Post
This is awesome. RRT FTW, they really do it right.

So did you buy the kit before getting a leakdown test?
We didn't do a compression or leak down test but only went that route as RRT has been intimately familiar with the vehicle for years and knew it was more or less good to go. In retrospect, it would have been smart to do it regardless but they were confident and, so long as they're confident, I certainly am
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #13
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Congrats!
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:35 AM   #14
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I dont know the in's and out's of your gorgeous vehicle but are you ever planning on installing a M3 diff? Or possible 6 speed transmission swap or both for better gearing?
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #15
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I dont know the in's and out's of your gorgeous vehicle but are you ever planning on installing a M3 diff? Or possible 6 speed transmission swap or both for better gearing?
That's a great question.. I need to do a few things in the coming months :

- Clutch. I've got 138k on the factory clutch and with the additional power, it's lifespan has been cut significantly. The good news is I drive like an old woman and, so long as I'm babying it, the clutch should hold out. The big question becomes what clutch do I swap it with when the time comes? Part of me just wants to throw a factory clutch back in for the driveability. It won't perform perfectly but would "work" well.

- Diff : Issue here is that if I put in an M3 diff, I believe I would have to swap out the entire subframe... and the problem with that results from the fact that I already did the subframe reinforcement kit. I believe that would make it a huge pain to swap out the diff.

- Pistons, rods, head gasket : I did the head gasket something like 15-20k miles ago but imagine it will also have a limited lifespan with boost pressures. Part of me wants to pull the motor when that time comes and rebuild the bottom with forged pistons, rings, and perhaps sleeve the motor (though I haven't really looked into this as much). Also, could add the head gasket that TT uses along with the longer head studs/bolts.

Transmission : I hope the 5 speed holds out and harnesses the power.. if it becomes and issue, I think there are a couple other options I could look into. The only problem I face now is that, with a short second gear, I slam through 1-3 wayyyy too quickly. The amazing thing about the power is how smoothly it hits and, even while driving like miss daisy, how quickly I'm hitting 70-80 mph. One headache is that, at 80, I'm around 3500 rpms.. would prefer that to be a bit lower.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:10 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 2000_328CI View Post
That's a great question.. I need to do a few things in the coming months :

- Clutch. I've got 138k on the factory clutch and with the additional power, it's lifespan has been cut significantly. The good news is I drive like an old woman and, so long as I'm babying it, the clutch should hold out. The big question becomes what clutch do I swap it with when the time comes? Part of me just wants to throw a factory clutch back in for the driveability. It won't perform perfectly but would "work" well. Yes, you need a new clutch. An OE clutch/flywheel might work well for a short period of time, but it will be prone to quick failure based on its new load. I'd recommend the UUC Stage 2 w/ Performance Organic Clutch, it's not cheap but it's completely proven to work under these conditions. Do it right the first time. http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/light...dels-p285.aspx

- Diff : Issue here is that if I put in an M3 diff, I believe I would have to swap out the entire subframe... and the problem with that results from the fact that I already did the subframe reinforcement kit. I believe that would make it a huge pain to swap out the diff. No, leave this stock.

- Pistons, rods, head gasket : I did the head gasket something like 15-20k miles ago but imagine it will also have a limited lifespan with boost pressures. Part of me wants to pull the motor when that time comes and rebuild the bottom with forged pistons, rings, and perhaps sleeve the motor (though I haven't really looked into this as much). Also, could add the head gasket that TT uses along with the longer head studs/bolts. No, don't touch anything until you have a problem. You know....don't fix it, if it's not broken.

Transmission : I hope the 5 speed holds out and harnesses the power.. if it becomes and issue, I think there are a couple other options I could look into. The only problem I face now is that, with a short second gear, I slam through 1-3 wayyyy too quickly. The amazing thing about the power is how smoothly it hits and, even while driving like miss daisy, how quickly I'm hitting 70-80 mph. One headache is that, at 80, I'm around 3500 rpms.. would prefer that to be a bit lower.Again, don't do anything, that 5 speed will hold all day long. Gearing, I wouldn't touch that either. Those RPM numbers sound real good, but hears a BMW gear calculator for you to play with. http://www.bokchoys.com/differential...calculator.htm
Also, what brand Dyno are you on?
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:15 AM   #17
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Thanks for the reply.

I've been contemplating going F/I but with those Stage II kits dont you need at least an MLS low comp headgasket & studs to run those boost levels safely? Once you're breaking 6psi, you really shouldn't use a stock headgasket. With just the MLS gasket and studs, people push 16+psi. Low compression gaskets are popular and are cheaper than a built low-compression motor with custom rods and pistons. However, the low compression gasket is basically a training wheel for tuning the motor and I would like to see some more high compression builds using the same thickness headgasket.

You'll need a clutch to hold the extra power (since your still on the OEM factory one). The transmissions have been found to handle tons of power but the clutch won't last. Unless you putt-putt around town and shift slowly like you said. Upgraded clutch is only $500. MLS gasket is under $200 but there's the labor to install it and do the machine work on the cylinder head.

I may be totally wrong on all counts, but this is what i've read and understood. I really want to do this though LOL My motor only has 104k.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:24 AM   #18
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Thanks for the reply.

I've been contemplating going F/I but with those Stage II kits dont you need at least an MLS low comp headgasket & studs to run those boost levels safely? Once you're breaking 6psi, you really shouldn't use a stock headgasket. With just the MLS gasket and studs, people push 16+psi. Low compression gaskets are popular and are cheaper than a built low-compression motor with custom rods and pistons. However, the low compression gasket is basically a training wheel for tuning the motor and I would like to see some more high compression builds using the same thickness headgasket.

You'll need a clutch to hold the extra power (since your still on the OEM factory one). The transmissions have been found to handle tons of power but the clutch won't last. Unless you putt-putt around town and shift slowly like you said. Upgraded clutch is only $500. MLS gasket is under $200 but there's the labor to install it and do the machine work on the cylinder head.

I may be totally wrong on all counts, but this is what i've read and understood. I really want to do this though LOL My motor only has 104k.
That's an interesting idea.. I suppose you would need to fully retune the vehicle with the LCG correct? The guys at Active argued that it should be safe even with the stock gasket but it does seem like it would be pushing limitations.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #19
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Its been heavily debated, maybe someone else can chime in (FI guys?)

I've been trying to do a lot of research before pulling the trigger on a S/C kit or to do a motor swap or just save for an M.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #20
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Its been heavily debated, maybe someone else can chime in (FI guys?)

I've been trying to do a lot of research before pulling the trigger on a S/C kit or to do a motor swap or just save for an M.
After this project, I can say that an S54 motor swap is definitely the way to go unless you have heavily invested already in the non-m. I fortunately was heavily sponsored both with parts and labor but, were I paying retail, the cost of this FI setup would certainly outweigh the S54... And between the custom fabrication required for the intercooler piping, headers, meth, and gauges, the labor would have likely not been much more for the motor install.

For my particular application, I preferred FI over the S54 for the "custom" feel of it. Had I done a motor swap, I would have been M3 fenders away from creating an M3 clone.. and I really wanted to veer from that.
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