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Forced Induction Forum Sponsored by Active Autowerke
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:28 PM   #61
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I sandblasted the exterior of my oil pan. The bumpy surface increased total surface area which increased cooling capacity.
My next mod for sureee...
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:34 PM   #62
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Lastly building your own turbo kit will always be cheaper and better than a prefabricated kit (not sure on HP Kits and the 40,000 price though). If you know what your doing and know how to adjust the turbo specs to achieve the proper flow based on your head and powerband desire. Simply putting a T67 or whatever the biggest baddeest turbo on the market currently is, is a sign of ignorance unless you have designed your motor to utilize that turbo.
define "better"?

As of now there are three companies that offer kits that can put you over 320rwhp. With supporting mods 350rwhp+ easily. All kits have proven hardware and tuning, I don't see how a custom one-off fabricated kit could be "better" or even cheaper...
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:53 PM   #63
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define "better"?

As of now there are three companies that offer kits that can put you over 320rwhp. With supporting mods 350rwhp+ easily. All kits have proven hardware and tuning, I don't see how a custom one-off fabricated kit could be "better" or even cheaper...
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:06 PM   #64
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attaus, were you once on another forum SCF?
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:19 PM   #65
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:28 PM   #66
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I sandblasted the exterior of my oil pan. The bumpy surface increased total surface area which increased cooling capacity.


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hey all...so today I found out what was making a phit phit sound when I had the windows down...the piece o cr@p ebay headers have a leak on both front and rear where the pipes come together...now I wish I had done it right and found a set of Ss or Technik headers...
lol were in the same boat leak in the collector
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:45 PM   #67
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What?!!

It's true.



Cough Kromer Kraft Cough Cough
do you have all the information he is asking for? how much
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:00 PM   #68
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If you do an S54 swap, then you're $8,000 out and only have 330hp at the crank.

Then what? Turbo the S54? Those kits start at $15,000. So you're talking $22,000.. not $8,000.

Theoretically you could have a 400whp 330Ci for < $8,000, if you can source parts and do everything right.
I'd like to see someone get 400whp for < $8k. I bought my S/C kit, cams, and headers used and I am at 345 whp. I've paid $8k w/ install.

Then the S54 swap will be more than $8k. You can buy an M3 that comes with an LSD and all of the other goodies for about $8k more than a 330. When you do the math (s/c kit, cams, headers, LSD for 330Ci), the M3 is a cheaper alternative.
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:27 PM   #69
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Oh, I totally believe you. I just like that it's your answer to work to your bottom end.

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What?!!

It's true.
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:31 PM   #70
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Lots.

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do you have all the information he is asking for? how much
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:34 PM   #71
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Oh, I totally believe you. I just like that it's your answer to work to your bottom end.
well then, take those headers and send them to me freight paid
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:52 PM   #72
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do you have all the information he is asking for? how much
I don't know what info he's looking for, as my KK setup came directly from a race team. (NIB spare)

The fact that he would be asking a lot of info is a very good sign though, and in your case, probably something that can be benificial. My headers are designed for high RPM N/A use, the design would be different for a lower RPM FI application.

I'm guessing the price to be similar to SS, but you can find out for sure by giving Don a call.
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:57 PM   #73
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define "better"?

As of now there are three companies that offer kits that can put you over 320rwhp. With supporting mods 350rwhp+ easily. All kits have proven hardware and tuning, I don't see how a custom one-off fabricated kit could be "better" or even cheaper...
You lost me....who are the 3 companies that offer turbo kits for the M54?

1.) TT
2.) ?
3.) ?

I try to keep informed about the M54 ya know.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:02 AM   #74
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I don't know what info he's looking for, as my KK setup came directly from a race team. (NIB spare)

The fact that he would be asking a lot of info is a very good sign though, and in your case, probably something that can be benificial. My headers are designed for high RPM N/A use, the design would be different for a lower RPM FI application.

I'm guessing the price to be similar to SS, but you can find out for sure by giving Don a call.
i will, although then I would be tempted to install them on the sedan and move the Ss to the wagon...ugh, two header installs...kill me now
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:15 AM   #75
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Cast iron is always better unless your conserving weight in a na motor. That heat is what you want.
Sorry I should clarify. Aluminum HEADS are better for keeping detonation at bay. Block material not as critical in that respect.

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Heat is what...? Energy... it increases pressure which drives the turbo. There are other routes to lower charge temps without sacrificing the turbo.
Thats not how you do it. You MUST keep the charge temps down because fuel will ignite on its own (without the spark) if the temps are too high. Thats where octane comes in. Higher octane fuel is not better, it doesnt have more energy, it is just more stable at higher temperatures.... so you can run more boost, more compression, and higher temps. Even then that fuel has a limit.

If you keep the charge temps down then you can run more boost and thats where you build power. You have to remember the engine materials and fuel have physical limits under which they are controllable and will operate properly.

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Its just that it don't take rocket science to construct your own. Which is how this will have to be approched.
Yes but what concerns me the most is the ecu control and integration into existing systems. That is VERY difficult to get right without dumping the stock engine controls and going stand alone.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:18 AM   #76
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I'd like to see someone get 400whp for < $8k. I bought my S/C kit, cams, and headers used and I am at 345 whp. I've paid $8k w/ install.
Well, you paid $8k to buy it from someone and then have them install it.

Imagine how much you would save through DIY.. $1000 off the top just in labor, and a helluva lot more on material costs. To be honest, $8k is very conservative. The typical well-built DIY turbo kit costs $3k.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:18 AM   #77
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Attaus, I will be getting an answer to your question shortly. I have talked with TT, maximum PSI, technik and VF. That block can handle around 375hp, maybe 400hp if your blessed and still be very reliable. You can pushed past that but its only a matter of time before something goes wrong. Without building the motor with cams, pistons, rods, etc, the compression is too high. Rear sub enforcement, bushings and diff are a must if you are looking to get tracking and not tear out your rear. I am looking to run 11's and this project is going to get done. I am working with alot of good people, it will just take time. Ill keep you posted.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:20 AM   #78
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^^^ Sweeeet.. definitely. I agree that 400hp would be on the upper side on the stock CR. An 11 second 330 would be sick.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:23 AM   #79
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That is what we are hoping for. Most likely higher 11's without some sort of LSD. 285s with that would put me in mid or low elevens and the goal is to meet emissions and be street legal.
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:27 AM   #80
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I actually have no idea what you are saying. Something about punching steel?
Other people understood the analogy in that materials alone do not make a strong engine.



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Most companies, even with performance cars, are indifferent how much power the engine can make with the stock block. That explains why some cars, like the 2JZ and 03/04 Cobra motor can take 800whp stock, and some - like the LT1, have hyperpeutic pistons that can only take ~400whp stock. However, my Z28 had 160,000 hard miles and it started every time.
I fail to see what your old Camaro starting has anything to do with an engines physical ability to hold power levels far past stock.


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Google intercoolers and methanol injection. Those help lower IAT's.
I dont need to google anything since what I know what I am talking about.



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. But from my standpoint all you're doing is nitpicking my post with invalid points.
I was pointing out your wrong statements and incorrect conclusions.
I was also made an effort to be really nice about how I worded things.. and I am usually not. It is ok to be wrong sometimes and your ego should step back and let your mind lead.

It is obvious from your posts that you have little engineering and design background. There is nothing wrong with that but if you insist on arguing incorrect points about things you know little about then I am going to get annoyed and stop being nice.
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