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Old 05-25-2009, 06:36 PM   #1
pnickisson
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Audio upgrade help and DIY

Hi all

I'm wanting to do an audio upgrade as i've just taken ownership of a 2005 330i convertible.

I have come across what'on the face of it' looks like a bargain set of kit here
Infinity reference 5350a 6-channel amp
Infinity 1250w 12" subwoofer including 12" 3/4 mdf box
Infinity reference 9623i 330w 6x9 speakers
[/INDENT]5.25" (130mm) 2-way component system - component speaker system includes woofers, tweeters, and crossovers 5-1/4" Plus One polypropylene woofer with rubber surround 1" silk dome tweeter with multiple mounting options Starfish™ mounting bracket for easier tweeter installation in factory locations 2-way external crossover network (18 dB/octave, 3,500 Hz high-pass and low-pass) power range: 2-75 watts RMS (225 watts peak power) frequency response: 67
4 gauge wiring kit
All coming in at £299.

Can anyone in the know give me an idea about the quality of the Infinity kit as i'm new to this. I also want to do an idiotproof pictorial DIY on how to do this as unless I've managed to miss it there's not what you'd call an idiot proof DIY out there for audio upgrade.

requirements are:-

1) want to retain the stock radio head unit

2) want to put the woofer in the boot - but through the ski bag holder area so that the woofer faces into the cabin

Feedback would be appreciated on the kit specified above is it OK kit for the money

If anyone has done something like this would appreciate them letting me know as I may need their help

regards
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:48 AM   #2
tony325ci_51
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Similar deal to this kit I'm guessing.

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/2865.html

I'm guessing the lack of replies here is due to the complexity of the options. Had a quick look at the amp specs and kit out of curiosity and I can tell you this won't be a trivial install.

Stock HU doesn't have RCA pre-outs, amp doesn't have high level IPs so you'll need converters. These aren't great for sound quality, though the amp can do some level matching adjustment.
If you want to retain front / rear fade control from HU you'll have to re-route all speaker outs to amp via converters.

12" sub is probably too big for ski-pass hatch, check the audio forums for custom type installs if you really want to use the hatch. Else just leave the box in the boot.

130mm speakers will fit stock speaker locations with adaptors (such as Autoleads SAK-1206), but will give no bass at all, so must be used with a sub.

The 6x9's will not fit easily in any of the stock speaker locations, prepare to cut bits out of your BMW or forget them.

Overall I wouldn't do it, I'd find kit which better fits the e46 but the choice is yours.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:33 PM   #3
pnickisson
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Thanks

Tony many thanks for your advice. As it happened I thought that it would be better to do this upgrade in stages so I didn't get the kit as you rightly point out that it would be a ***** to do.

So yesterday i thought I'd just change the speakers, went to car audio shop and the guy behind the counter recommended Alpine: SXE-1750S - components for front and Alpine SPE-13CS 5.25 inch (13cm) component for rear. Installed them today and as you mentioned there's absolutely no base. Can you suggest where I go from here. Really dont want to replace the head unit as its the sat nav/radio/telephone/tv unit that came with the car but feeling a little p____d that I've spent £120 notes and no better sound (actually it seems worse).

I'm quite adept at trim removal and not scared of rerouting wires if thats the best way of doing it (and I've been reading lots of posts re E46 but they all seem quite confusing and there doesn't seem to be a definitive one like there are for most other things so any help/advice would be really appreciated.

I'm away on holiday for 2 weeks from tomorrow so wont be able to respond until I get back but thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:02 PM   #4
Many330i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnickisson View Post
Tony many thanks for your advice. As it happened I thought that it would be better to do this upgrade in stages so I didn't get the kit as you rightly point out that it would be a ***** to do.

So yesterday i thought I'd just change the speakers, went to car audio shop and the guy behind the counter recommended Alpine: SXE-1750S - components for front and Alpine SPE-13CS 5.25 inch (13cm) component for rear. Installed them today and as you mentioned there's absolutely no base. Can you suggest where I go from here. Really dont want to replace the head unit as its the sat nav/radio/telephone/tv unit that came with the car but feeling a little p____d that I've spent £120 notes and no better sound (actually it seems worse).

I'm quite adept at trim removal and not scared of rerouting wires if thats the best way of doing it (and I've been reading lots of posts re E46 but they all seem quite confusing and there doesn't seem to be a definitive one like there are for most other things so any help/advice would be really appreciated.

I'm away on holiday for 2 weeks from tomorrow so wont be able to respond until I get back but thanks again for your help.
http://shop.audioimages.co.uk/alpine...ker-p-645.html

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/5324.html

A quick check at the frequency response of each of the above reveal why you don't have any base!
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:15 PM   #5
pnickisson
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frequency response?

sorry don't quite understand what that means - is there a standard frequency response I should be looking for
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:25 PM   #6
BMWespresso
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnickisson View Post
Tony many thanks for your advice. As it happened I thought that it would be better to do this upgrade in stages so I didn't get the kit as you rightly point out that it would be a ***** to do.

So yesterday i thought I'd just change the speakers, went to car audio shop and the guy behind the counter recommended Alpine: SXE-1750S - components for front and Alpine SPE-13CS 5.25 inch (13cm) component for rear. Installed them today and as you mentioned there's absolutely no base. Can you suggest where I go from here. Really dont want to replace the head unit as its the sat nav/radio/telephone/tv unit that came with the car but feeling a little p____d that I've spent £120 notes and no better sound (actually it seems worse).

I'm quite adept at trim removal and not scared of rerouting wires if thats the best way of doing it (and I've been reading lots of posts re E46 but they all seem quite confusing and there doesn't seem to be a definitive one like there are for most other things so any help/advice would be really appreciated.

I'm away on holiday for 2 weeks from tomorrow so wont be able to respond until I get back but thanks again for your help.
When you loose all the base, ussually one of the speakers is connected backwards, they are out of phase, just flip the connections on one
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:56 PM   #7
pnickisson
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'll change the wires over tomorrow. One worrying thing though is that there does not seem to be any sound coming from the left rear speakers at all but I do have sound on the both left and right fronts and right rear. Would this be an indicator of getting the cables the wrong way round as well?
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:29 PM   #8
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:57 PM   #9
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yes, and there is nothing wrong with the frequency response on those either. 50-60 hz bottom end is about as low as a driver is going to go. 30hz and lower is where typically you would crossout with an amp or eq subsonic filter, as this is in audible noise which only leads to distortion and sub damage. so your losing 30-50hz no biggie thats what a powered sub is for, subs usually you cross between 90-120hz top end. I have no idea what the factory crossover points are but if there is no limit on the botom end then you will have overlap from 50-90/120hz when you add a sub. Btw you will want a sub as any door speakers will give you bass, but if you want alot more than stock you need amps and subs. putting a amp on your upgraded speakers will give you a little more bass and better volume and clarity, but bass wise will not be overly impressive. adding an amp is easy your rear speaker wires where they go into factory amp "t" into those with the ends of a stripped rca cable, buy an amp that accepts high voltage balanced inputs, attach power and ground cables from amp to battery, attach amp remote turn on to white remote turn on wire for factory amp, set gain on amp, set amps crossover presto bass.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:03 PM   #10
pnickisson
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Thanks

Thanks MustangGuy.

I've managed to check he wiring and everything is wired as it should be - traced the wires back to the amp. and it looks like the AMP is at fault as I've tested the speakers are OK, and the wiring is OK then it must be the BM54 amp that has become faulty on that circuit.

bearing in mind that I wish to retain the head unit as its radio/sat nav/bluetooth/computer/TV monitor + CD Changer and also want to put in a sub in the ski pass would you be able to suggest my best option.

As I see it from my limited knowledge of this area they are as follows

a) get a new BM54 amp (not cheap) and then cut into the rear speaker wires and wire it to a new amp that powers the new sub.

b)get a new amp and sub and run the sub from the signal on the rear right (would the one circuit be powerfull enough to power the sub) and this option still leaves me with no sound on the left.

c)as above but also take the signal from right rears be able to power the left rears and new sub as well????

d) get a new 5 channel amp and run all signals from new amp to all the speakers both front and rear and the new sub (but would this mean I lose radio mute facilities when answering phone) etc.

Thanks for any help offered as this is a totally new area to me and so all help and advice is gratefully appreciated.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:33 PM   #11
pnickisson
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Double din

A final option now being considered?

remove widescreen boardmonitor, sat nav, bluetooth + tvmodule + associated wiring and place on ebay and sell individually.

Purchase double din bezel, double din unit, + wire to new 5 channel amp, speakers and sub.

Particularly like the modern look of the Pioner AVIC F900BT

With what I get for the price of the items on EBAY I assume it would help to offset the cost of the new kit and make the interior of the car look a bit more modern.

is this the best option as I would get the same as I've got now and have infinitely better sound and avoid having to pay over £300 for a crap BM54 amp.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:25 PM   #12
98mustangguy
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why not just buy a 5 channel amp, a passive crossover set 3 way for front and 2 way for rear, hook all wires front/rear into amp and hook up your sub, then as you can afford it upgrade speakers, that leave factory nav in, retains wheel controls and saves you the 1k+ for a replacement nav.
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:33 PM   #13
pnickisson
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Thaks MustangGuy

Posted this on the ICE forum as well (due to someone above kindly telling me I'd posted in the wrong forum) and another user in the ICE forum suggested the 5 channel amp option too

Only thing not sure about would be which wires are which on the connector to the BM54 amp. I know which are the output speaker wires but not sure which are the input speaker wires.

and does the muting of the phone etc still occur if I get a 5 channel amp.
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