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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 01-21-2009, 02:25 AM   #61
mujjuman
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wow, i never knew the blower fan looked likethat
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:14 AM   #62
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Interesting. Mine is being replaced Tuesday under CPO Warranty. The BMW Tech I talked to said they go in and replace it by taking apart the dash from the inside. It's still a big job doing it that way though as they told me they'd need my car most of the day.
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:42 AM   #63
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I sprayed that bad boy down with while lithium grease like three years ago and it hasn't made a peep since. Easier and cheaper than replacing, but you have to do all the same disassembly...
David, white lithium grease was exactly what I was thinking too...yours has been good for all this time? Where did you spray the grease? Did you still remove the filter housing and all that?

For everyone else, why buy a new part, can't you just take the current fan apart and either repack the bearings or clean and reoil? Seems awfully expensive for a noise that (at least for me) goes away once the car warms up?
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Old 01-29-2009, 03:08 PM   #64
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Great thread

Very informative DIY. I'm pretty sure my blower is going. The squawking is coming from the middle of the dash, especially when I start the car ('00 323ci coupe). The colder it is the worse the noise. Thanks to this DIY I'm pretty sure I can replace the little monster myself!
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:41 AM   #65
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My car needs this bad. I had a thought that graphite powder may be a temporary fix, if I could get it on the bearings. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:09 AM   #66
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Mine isn't making the cricket sound, but it sometimes groans at around 75% speed (not very loud). It seems only only happen in the cold, but does not happen all the time. Increase or decrease the speed a little and it goes away. Think it is the same culprit?
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Old 02-22-2009, 04:01 PM   #67
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Great DIY, I had to change mine on Saturday, found the DIY very helpful although I have a slightly different inlet manifold on my M54 which seemed to get in the way. Found that when I removed the old blower motor the fans snapped quite easily when removed as it is now 9 years old. The new fan slid in fairly easily and I didn't snap any fan blades. Seemed like it was slightly more flexible than the old one. Just for the record my new fan was a Bosch unit from BMW and the fans were fixed not removable. This is a real pig of a job to do but follow the guide above and it will be pretty easy. You wont be able to do it any other way and you cant try and cut corners other than dropping the engine! Just to help the new fan in a put some grease on around the opening so that it would slide in slightly better.
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Old 03-18-2009, 11:38 AM   #68
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Awesome thread and DIYs!!! Thank you!!

Will be tackling this today!
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:21 PM   #69
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Before anyone goes though this hassle, I have a very quick check/ fix. I had this same problem, and removed the fan, put it back together, and wasted three hours. Put it all back together and had the crickets. Took the cabin filter cover off, and the noise instantly went away. Turns out there was a part number sticker that dried out, and the corners peeled up. This ended up being the cause. So, before you go out and order a new fan, remove the cabin filter cover, and remove the dried out part number stick there. Hope this saves someone some trouble and some money.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:56 PM   #70
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wow. great thread, thanks, it'll def be of help.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:54 AM   #71
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I replaced the blower today to cure the car of crickets. Getting the new unit in was not too difficult in the four cylinder model that we have in Australia. The replacement was uneventful except for the fact that I found myself with an extra plastic clip at the end. It is similar to the three on the ventilation air filter cover and the one on the ECU side cover. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 07-18-2009, 05:40 PM   #72
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- Pelican Parts lists the replacement as $390 but it is not in stock... the equivalent replacement from ACM is $180 but I can't speak to its quality because...

- I only had five days to get this done before relatives came to visit so I bought from the dealer. The genuine Bosch is $490!!! But, it DOES have removable fan blades via squeeze clip. This simple feature made dropping the new blower in a 10 minute effort. You can remove the black blade assembly and then snap it back on once the rest of the motor + green blades are in.

I hope this lasts! Very expensive fix so we'll see.

--Trip
I searched on getbmwparts.com for part no. 64118372797 and it said it was superceded by 64113453729 and it only costs $104. getbmwparts is part of Tischer BMW, so they should only sell OEM BMW parts and not aftermarket. Why is the blower so cheap?? Does anyone know if the Tischer blower does not come with removable fins? Is it Bosch brand?

On another note, I have the Bentley E46 service manual and read over the the A/C blower replacement section many times. The manual makes it seem very easy: a simple drop-in procedure, and I quote:

"Pry off blower motor retaining strap.

- Pull blower motor forward to remove."

They don't mention about having to go sideways, or remove fins before placing in. Perhaps the Bentley manual missed a nuance of the procedure.
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Old 07-18-2009, 08:19 PM   #73
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On another note, I have the Bentley E46 service manual and read over the the A/C blower replacement section many times. The manual makes it seem very easy: a simple drop-in procedure, and I quote:

"Pry off blower motor retaining strap.

- Pull blower motor forward to remove."

They don't mention about having to go sideways, or remove fins before placing in. Perhaps the Bentley manual missed a nuance of the procedure.
The current FSR is an "upgrade" from the original part. It was first used on E39s and X5s, and has longer porcupine quills/heat sinks.

Those Bentley instructions sound like they're attacking it from under the hood and removing the blower fan to get at the FSR. It's much easier to get to it from the front passenger's footwell after removing the glove box.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:56 PM   #74
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The current FSR is an "upgrade" from the original part. It was first used on E39s and X5s, and has longer porcupine quills/heat sinks.

Those Bentley instructions sound like they're attacking it from under the hood and removing the blower fan to get at the FSR. It's much easier to get to it from the front passenger's footwell after removing the glove box.
Thanks for the info, but I am actually trying to replace the a/c blower motor (cricket noise), not FSR. The bentley manual makes it sound and seem easy to remove without having to remove the fins and what not, which is totally opposite of what others have posted from experience.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:38 PM   #75
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i'm doing it right now as i'm replacing the vanos seals and the valve cover gasket, seem like you get a little more opening if you take the valve cover gasket out and work from there, i took it off and put it back in probably in 45 min, but still is a pain to work on...now put the valve cover gasket back together...
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:30 PM   #76
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Anyone replaced blower motor on an M3?

Airbox (intake plenum) cover on the M3 makes blocks the removal path shown in this DIY. Only way I can see to do it without removing this is to get the BEHR model with removable squirrel cages and reassemble the fan inside the fan box. You would also have to remove the wiper motor and linkage and remove in order to remove right side fan box cover and to remove to front fan box cover (which must be removed from the right as well). This makes the whole task a lot trickier -- like assembling a ship in a bottle.

Has anyone successfully done this on an M3? Is there an easier way?

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Old 09-29-2009, 09:47 AM   #77
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Ok here we go...

I was trying for 4 hours to remove the fan and eventually I broke the plastic blades in an explosion of anger. I was then trying for another 4 hours to get the new fan in without breaking anything.

I need to replace my spark plugs so i'll be removing the cabin filter housing and my fan just died so will do that too. Seems like it will be easier to remove the fan while the engine cover is off too!
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:06 AM   #78
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Also...

I jsut replaced my cabin air filter and the blower seems to have stopped working right after that so I am hoping an inspection will reveal some dirt or something causing it to stall. Sound reasonable? Seems like before anyone pulls the fan they should inspect for a cause.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:00 AM   #79
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Well replacing the cabin air filter should not cause the fan to stop working. Even if you let dirt fall into the fan assembly, due to gravity, everything should fall below the fan. Or perhaps it's just a coinsidence, blow fues, final stage resistor etc
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:34 PM   #80
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So the part from Tischer that only costs $104 is OEM and works perfectly fine.

Follow the instructions that have gone before. I found it helps to remove the plastic (BMW) camshaft cover also. Rip the old fan out - have some fun - it's already damaged so you're not going to hurt it.

BEFORE you put the new part in, since the fins don't come off the Tischer unit, it is IMPERATIVE that you remove the right side (cars right side) blower housing. If you don't you can be assured you will break the fins trying to get the new unit in. If you take this cover off it's like 5 minutes to get the new fan in - no kidding!

NOTE: if you did happen to break a piece of the fin(s) off of the new unit trying to wedge it in, find the exact opposite fin and take off approximately the same amount of plastic. This might help keep you from buying a new one!

IMPORTANT: My old unit had a black side and a white side. The black side was on the cars right side. Make sure you orient the fan correctly when you install it.

With the right blower housing off (cars right) the fan unit literally just slips right in to the housing - no problems - no risk of bending/breaking the blades. Slide the metal keeper in place and lock it in place on top; use the torx screw driver to slide into the hole at the bottom of the clip and force the clip into place on the housing. Rotate the blades to see that it's installed correctly and you have the correct clearance. Test run the unit by inserting the key and turning the ignition on but don't start the car. If everything is correct it should turn as expected with no vibration or rubbing.

Now put it all back together and you are good to go! I'll post some pictures later but thought I'd get this out here for others that may be trying this soon.

NOTE: This was on a left hand drive car - US model.
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