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Old 09-07-2009, 07:46 AM   #21
InDiGlOM3
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For the HPF guys when it comes to the fuel filter there really is no need to replace is even thou its pretty cheap. Its meant to be takin a apart and the little screen inside is easily cleaned. However the surface area on this new filter is much smaller then that of the Factory one so it needs to be clean or replaced more often, Id say 15-20k Would be safe. Below is a picture of the HPF fuel parts, the piece that says edelbrock is the fuel filter.

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Old 09-08-2009, 11:55 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by mtran850
is there any symptom when the flex disc is bad or do you just have to pull it out to see if it is bad or not
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Originally Posted by ispeedm3 View Post
oh trust me you will know. you will feel a very bad vibration coming from the driveline.
Yeah you will definitely notice.. when mine first started going bad it felt like a rim had gotten bent.. Then i Noticed was only at a certain spd. Its a slight feeling that the center of your car is wanting to jump up and down. Mine wasn't an excessive but definitely noticeable.. some where around 55 56 thousand...
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Old 09-08-2009, 05:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by sniperm View Post
where do get the flex disk?

how hot is it in dallas? i might be moving up to dallas next month..
Cheaper.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:29 PM   #24
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I've done the guibo a few times as well..

I do the SC belt every 15k miles or so, oil changes at 3k, and tranny/diff fluid once a year or so. I've only changed my fuel filter three times over 80k miles.
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:52 PM   #25
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Funny, I cleaned my maf once & I don't remember it being that big of a pita....and I'm not even a mechanic. Maybe I just got lucky & had a good day. Now I'm afraid to try it again...lol!
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:42 AM   #26
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Im doing my flex disc this weekend. It's missing chunks
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:06 PM   #27
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Great post scott!

I havent done my air filter yet i should probly do that very soon.
My flex disk was cracked also pretty bad.
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This is what a bad flex disc looks like.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:10 PM   #28
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I don't see this *important* info posted often so thought I would start a thread to see what everyone is doing to keep thier F/I cars running at top performance. Hopefully everyone is aware that F/I puts a lot more stress on your car's parts that are designed to wear and be replaced. Please post what's on your list of items to check and how often. Here's mine..

Engine Oil/Filter: I believe BMW recommends servicing the oil/filter every 15k miles, even for a n/a car with no mods that seems a little long to me. I may be on the extreme side of caution but my cars gets new oil/filter approx every 2 -3k miles.

Air Filter: Easily overlooked, if you're sucking in a lot more air your filter is going to collect dust and debris a lot faster. Last time I cleaned mine I was a bit overdue. I now clean and oil my filter with each engine oil change.

Transmission Fluid: BMW claims the tranny fluid is good for the life of the car, although they even recommend service @ 100k miles. My car has 50k miles on the clock (most of that was n/a) - I'm planning to change the tranny fluid soon.

Differential: Don't recall what BMW advises - I just changed mine recently. (Wear some kind of gas mask, the diff fluid smells like Sh!t.)

Flex Disk: If you're unfamiliar this is the ultra strong circle of reinforced rubber that connects your transmission to your drive shaft, I replaced mine about 5k miles ago as it was cracked and splitting everywhere. Replace as needed.

Spark Plugs/Coils: I generally replace these as needed. I keep saying I'm going to pony up for the Okada Coils, so far the $1k+ price has deterred me. If you own a HPF car they have recently upgraded to a new high performance plug that is quite expensive, but runs cooler, is pre-gapped, operates more efficiently, lasts longer and puts less stress on your coils.

Tires: uhh..

Brake Pads:

Methanol Injection: If your car has this remember to add two teaspoons of "Alcohol Fuel Lubricant" per 1.25 gallons of methanol. See this thread for more info: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...fuel+lubricant

Coolant: I live in Texas and it gets HOT during the summer months. In the summer I add a mix of distilled water and 2 bottles of Watter Wetter. In the winter months I go back to the oem BMW coolant.

All I can think of for now. Look forward to hearing other's rec's.

There are two very strong threads in this forum that have data backing up the fact that the synthetic oils lubricate the engine better if they stay in for the recomended service usage that is based on fuel consumption. So you might be doing more arm than good by changing your engine oil that often.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooz View Post
There are two very strong threads in this forum that have data backing up the fact that the synthetic oils lubricate the engine better if they stay in for the recomended service usage that is based on fuel consumption. So you might be doing more arm than good by changing your engine oil that often.
I agree, leave it in for at least 5k.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:21 PM   #30
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Unless you race or run it hard a lot, right?

*nvrmd, That would obviously go with fuel consumption*
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:47 PM   #31
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I agree, leave it in for at least 5k.
Actually just going by the OCD was found t be the best for our engines.

Thread 1

Thread 2

I know there is also another thread but I coudln't find it
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:29 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Actually just going by the OCD was found t be the best for our engines.

Thread 1

Thread 2

I know there is also another thread but I coudln't find it
Those are non-m's and NA, very different. But, that info just reassures me that changing oil every 5-7k is perfect for FI M3's.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:32 PM   #33
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There are two very strong threads in this forum that have data backing up the fact that the synthetic oils lubricate the engine better if they stay in for the recomended service usage that is based on fuel consumption. So you might be doing more arm than good by changing your engine oil that often.
Wow, interesting.. first time I've heard this. I will check the threads.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:12 PM   #34
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This is what a bad flex disc looks like.
You want to play that game? You lose:

(not mine "had no idea until it severed an electrical connection")
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:18 PM   #35
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Not so sure comparing an article written about fleet vehicles to high performance, boosted, and most likely hard drivne engines is really a wise idea. Pretty huge differences.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:26 PM   #36
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Not so sure comparing an article written about fleet vehicles to high performance, boosted, and most likely hard drivne engines is really a wise idea. Pretty huge differences.
Well, we won't ever really know if it's a huge diff unless some of those hard driving F/I guys submit their oil for testing.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:32 PM   #37
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Well, we won't ever really know if it's a huge diff unless some of those hard driving F/I guys submit their oil for testing.
I will send mine, who does the testing?
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:38 PM   #38
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Well, we won't ever really know if it's a huge diff unless some of those hard driving F/I guys submit their oil for testing.
I have 3 samples waiting to go in and always test my oil, but it wont make a difference. The oil testing only tell you if there is something wrong, not if it's a little above average.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:50 PM   #39
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I have 3 samples waiting to go in and always test my oil, but it wont make a difference. The oil testing only tell you if there is something wrong, not if it's a little above average.
Hard to understand why there could be any issue with "new" oil. I will have to read up on this. If the oil performs at peak efficiency between 3,000 - 8,000 miles (example) why not ask Castrol to burn the first 3,000 miles before they bottle it?

I'm just say'n
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:52 PM   #40
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I will send mine, who does the testing?
Blackstone Laboratories according to another poster
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