Official Forced Induction Maintenance/Service Thread

Originally Posted by Estoril-E46

I have 3 samples waiting to go in and always test my oil, but it wont make a difference. The oil testing only tell you if there is something wrong, not if it's a little above average.

That may be so but it doesn't jive w/what I read on those threads about it. I'm not arguing...just seeking knowledge. What you are saying needs a little more explanation.

Remember to use some kind of injection cleaner every now and then , dunno how ESS/VF kits work but AA routes the CCV to the intake of the S/C , which puses quite abit of oil through the intake, which will eventually clog injectors and give missfires.

Lambdas could also be an item which requires replacing with F/I , but you'll notice when it's time

Originally Posted by Pir4t

Remember to use some kind of injection cleaner every now and then , dunno how ESS/VF kits work but AA routes the CCV to the intake of the S/C , which puses quite abit of oil through the intake, which will eventually clog injectors and give missfires.

Lambdas could also be an item which requires replacing with F/I , but you'll notice when it's time

That is interesting info, never heard this mentioned as a possible issue. Surprised some of the F/I vendors have not chimed into this thread with recommendations.

Originally Posted by RACEMX-M3

Surprised some of the F/I vendors have not chimed into this thread with recommendations.

VF does have a recommendation but not sure what it's based on. So yeah, be nice to have some vendors chime in.

Originally Posted by Pir4t

Remember to use some kind of injection cleaner every now and then , dunno how ESS/VF kits work but AA routes the CCV to the intake of the S/C , which puses quite abit of oil through the intake, which will eventually clog injectors and give missfires.

Lambdas could also be an item which requires replacing with F/I , but you'll notice when it's time

Perhaps I'm missing somthing, but I don't see how it will clog injectors. Engines with significant blow-by will have some oil being sucked into into the intake, but it shouldn't affect the injectors, should it? Paraklas was concerned that residual oil could affect the cooling abilities of the Laminova core of his intake, so he introduced a catch can into the system.

Originally Posted by lkstaack

Perhaps I'm missing somthing, but I don't see how it will clog injectors. Engines with significant blow-by will have some oil being sucked into into the intake, but it shouldn't affect the injectors, should it? Paraklas was concerned that residual oil could affect the cooling abilities of the Laminova core of his intake, so he introduced a catch can into the system.

Isnt the injectors mounted in the intake manifold ?

Oil during engine operation isnt a big factor , but once engine is shut off the oil will dry and if this is done often enough without running some inj.cleaner it will disrupt the flow of gas.(not much though , but could eventualy cause missfire in an extreme scenario)

Since the CCV is cut out when running boost you dont have the oil / oil vapours seperated , all of them gets sucked in...

When you say distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter, is that all you put or is this with the 50% OEM coolant?

Originally Posted by alibusoul

When you say distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter, is that all you put or is this with the 50% OEM coolant?

During the summer the distilled water/water wetter mix (nothing else) is the most effective for transferring heat. "Antifreeze" or the oem BMW coolant (which is a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze) must be added during the winter to prevent the engine coolant from freezing, which could easily crack your engine block.

Originally Posted by RACEMX-M3

Hard to understand why there could be any issue with "new" oil. I will have to read up on this. If the oil performs at peak efficiency between 3,000 - 8,000 miles (example) why not ask Castrol to burn the first 3,000 miles before they bottle it?

I'm just say'n

Oh didn't agree there would be an issue with new oil, I think the opposite and the tests being cited are pretty poor and should not be compared with our cars. The one link was about fleet vehicles which are pretty much the exact opposite of a hard driven performance car.

Originally Posted by azjimi

Blackstone Laboratories according to another poster

Originally Posted by azjimi

That may be so but it doesn't jive w/what I read on those threads about it. I'm not arguing...just seeking knowledge. What you are saying needs a little more explanation.

I'm saying blackstone does not provide test results like what that "study" is claiming to find. Blackstone simply tells you the amount of various elements in your oil. Like lots lead/copper/aluminum and your bearings are probably being eaten for some reason. They also give a good indication of fuel dilution and flashpoint which are good indicators of various possible issues.

The best they give as a lubrication test is a measure of viscosity.

Originally Posted by PatmanSC

hope this gets stickied

Better it got Acktung'ed.

A link to the HPF trouble shooting guide. For people who have a HPF setup.


http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=795096

An earlier post on this thread said to replace the AA SC belt about every 15K miles THEN when I asked AA they said to replace it every 7K miles (at least inspect it). So now I really need to know what is the best interval for the AA SC belt?

Jim

I have a Dinan supercharger kit on my 2.8L Z3. I need to replace the K&N filter, on the cold air intake, but I don't know the K&N part number. I presume the part number is molded into the filter, but I work long days and don't have time to pull it out and replace it just to find the part number. Anyone already know the K&N part number? My local parts store carries K&N - it's just a matter of cross-referencing...

Any experience with those pre-filter "socks" that I've heard are available?

For SC'd cars ALWAYS carry a spare belt. They can be HELL to find in a pinch...special order very often. Dont forget a spare AC belt. The SC belt will take out your AC belt if it is a catastrophic failure.


Cut vent holes in your valve cover to allow your coils to run cooler. Get creative and create a venturie effect.

Look in getting a better LSD for traction like an OS Gikken. Monitor ALL your bushings, sub frame bushings, front diff bushing, RTABS, etc. They will be more prone to failure.

Look into getting a CATCH CAN.

Monitor for OIL LEAKS in your lower oil line hoses near your alternator. For some reason these can tend to weep when you have any F/I, so I am told.
Mine did.

Keep ALL oil off any SC belts. The belt will slip and self destruct.

Severely lowered cars like those on KW coil overs are more prone to axle breakage, especially if you have any wheel hop with the DSC turned off. A BMW shop foreman said that the new angle of a severely lowered car puts a LOT more strain on the Axle and CV. Look into getting DSS 1000 HP axles or the very least, raising your ride height just a LITTLE. That right there will help a lot.