DIY: Cross Drilled Rotor Brake Install! StepByStep

Will be doing this in a couple of days! any other info that i need??

torque specs would be nice..

well written DIY

Originally Posted by artgod33

When you have the the brakes apart could you paint the calipers?

I hate seeing "open face" aftermarket rims on a car with stock brakes underneath.

And a full set of brembo's can run as much as a 95 Jeep Wrangler!

Would you suggest high heat paint? Gloss? Matt?

I was going to use black high heat paint, caliper paint is expensive.

can you reuse the spring? or do you need to buy a new one? thanks

So is it okay to only put the front on jack stands (will only be doing front brakes) and leave the rear on the ground? or do I have to put the whole car on stands?

That's the way I did it. Had no problems... Just have your parking brake engaged though. Good luck!

I'm getting the wear indicator squeak in the rear so 'tis Brakejob time for me.

I'm wondering where you guys are buying your parts?

Making sure to get every part I'll need..

* New front and rear rotors
* New front and rear brake pads
* New front and rear brake wear sensors
* New e-brake shoes
* New brake disc retaining bolts

586.75 on pelican.

I'm Looking to get quality parts for most reasonable price, obviously. Tomorrow sometime I will cross ref the parts with tischer for lowest price, but i Would appreciate any other inputs on sources?

Thank you

Nice DIY!

try

http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp

I'm getting ready to change out the front rotors and brakes in a couple of days. At this time, I'm not planning on flushing the brake fluid. As I've read in quite a few places that moisture should be kept away from this fluid because it would potentially cause corrosion on the brake pistons. However, I've also read in places during the rotor/pad installation process to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, which to me would allow moisture to go into the reservoir. Am I correct?

Originally Posted by phatchunk99

I'm getting ready to change out the front rotors and brakes in a couple of days. At this time, I'm not planning on flushing the brake fluid. As I've read in quite a few places that moisture should be kept away from this fluid because it would potentially cause corrosion on the brake pistons. However, I've also read in places during the rotor/pad installation process to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, which to me would allow moisture to go into the reservoir. Am I correct?

Im not a pro but have done this on another vehicle in the past. For the first question, Moisture is not good but i really don't see moisture getting into your system if you just do the job and close it up right after-wards. Its also good to replace the fluid because it gets dirt, debris,and the fluid its self becomes burnt from everyday use. For the second, as long as the system is bled properly, there shouldn't be any issues at all if it's open or not.

Wanted to post the torque specs I found in another thread (thanks frogg):

Originally Posted by frogg320

From the Good Book:

caliper to brake pad carrier mounting bolts: 22 ft-lbs.
brake rotor to hub mounting screw: 12 ft-lbs.
pad carrier to front steering arm: 81 ft-lbs. (what a pain!)

and, for completeness:
pad carrier to rear trailing arm: 48 ft-lbs. (rear brakes only!)

-J

Just did rotors and pads and as an FYI I did not have to take apart the caliper with the 2 allen bolts listed below:

Originally Posted by 5speedsteve

2 Small Allen Keys (the outer caliper to inner caliper)

I took the pads out like such:

Originally Posted by 5speedsteve

Take the pads out of the caliper and slide two pieces apart (stationary section and sliding section)

But I did not take the allen bolts off to take the caliper apart like the OP:

Originally Posted by 5speedsteve

Take the two Allen bolts off

I just put both pads back into the caliper and then mounted it back up.

Thanks for writing this, really helped me out today as I was doing my rears. Something i learned, if your fluid is near the max mark you might want to put a rag under the reservoir because some fluid will spill when you compress the calipers.

The DIY should have indicated applying anti-squeal to the rear of the brake pads and grease to the metal surfaces that come in contact with each other.

Brake squeal is generally caused by the vibration of brake pads. Anti-squeal provides a soft material that absorbes these vibrations as well as an adhesive that binds the pads to the brake piston.

Metal parts like the caliper dowels and the brake pad edges that mate with other metal parts should have grease applied to them to prevent wearing and ease of operation.

Is this DIY also the same for Brembo BBk's?

It should be. The only extra step is the installation of the caliper relocation bracket.

Found this 3 diy video on youtube, they are all good demonstrations!!

Did mine two weeks ago with new cool carbon pads! It was super easy and I saved mad dough!

Great write up!