E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 02-19-2008, 11:23 AM   #1
stick5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2000 323i/manual
Suspect Heater Valve, but no DTC's??

seems like many of us are having HVAC problems which are difficult to troubleshoot. like some of you, my problem is that my heat works for 10-20min, then it blows cold until i crank up the temp another 10-15 degrees. this cycle continues until i hit MAX temp (91F). sometimes air stays hot, sometimes gets cool again. as i start to lower temp again, the fan speed also backs off...so far, so good...until i back down to approx 65F...then fan speed goes back up and system blows cool air. after reading numerous posts, i'm thinking the problem is the heater control valve. but my peake reader shows no faults other than 92 (small evap leak) which i'm guessing is probably my gas cap (unrelated to this problem).

anyone know if a bad heater valve would result in a fault code? i would think so, but i'm not getting one.
stick5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 02-19-2008, 08:54 PM   #2
stick5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2000 323i/manual
this is the best e46 board, hands down...and nobody out there knows anything about fault codes on bad heater valves??
stick5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2008, 05:08 PM   #3
Ivegotissues666
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,015
My Ride: 88' BMW E30 SETA
Send a message via AIM to Ivegotissues666
No it will not trigger a fault code for a faulty heater valve.

Jared
Ivegotissues666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2008, 07:29 PM   #4
stick5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2000 323i/manual
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivegotissues666 View Post
No it will not trigger a fault code for a faulty heater valve.

Jared
thanks, jared. that surprises me - would have expected a fault. based on my problem description, do you agree that the heater valve is bad?
stick5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2009, 09:45 PM   #5
eweis
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Hilliard, Ohio
Posts: 147
My Ride: 1999 328i
This is an old thread but it turned up on my search for "heater control valve".
I found this post intriguing because I am also throwing code 92 EVAP capillary leak, .5mm detected. Aside from the code, I'm noticing a regular tapping sound which occurs every 8-12 seconds or so. I have narrowed down the sound as coming from my heater control valve (attached to left front strut housing just below/beside the MAF sensor and intake boot).

It hasn't started getting cold yet around here so I have not had a chance to test the heating ability of the system --a symptom noted in other posts.

So, my question is: is my heater control valve bad or is it more likely that related hoses are cracked/leaking? or is it indicative of other problems?

As a side note, possibly related, my coolant reservoir bleeder screw has broken resulting in some fluid leaking. I've just ordered all the parts for a cooling system overhaul. Anyone think this will stop the heater valve from tapping?
eweis is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use