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Old 08-13-2009, 01:41 AM   #1
Phoenix330ci
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2882/2883 codes + Chirping

Ok I'm going to start this thread because I have looked and read a lot and and frankly I don't want to change about $2000 worth of parts for nothing to work or permanently work. So here is my story. By the way I'm taking this car into the dealer tomorrow if I can get in there without an appointment and I'll have them make the repairs only if this is covered under my CPO extended warranty which looks to cover just about nothing if you read it. So check back because I'm going to post what happens.

Anyway, I have been chasing around this SES light and a slight rough idle for about 20K now (back at 50K miles on the clock). Mainly I was only getting the 2883 code which is mixture preparation bank 2. Yeah great description. Anyway tried a few different things and managed to keep the light off now for about 10-15k. All I did was clean the MAF with MAF cleaning spray picked up at Autozone and run a can of Sea Foam through the gas tank, then turn the ses off. However the rough idle started back up just out of the blue again, the same way as before, coming to a stop at a light and it started to rough idle. Take off and about five minutes later the ses is on. This time now I'm getting both a 2882 and 2883 (both banks now) and I have a new addition to the problem, a high pitched chirping noise coming from either the Adjuster Unit or the ICV which is hooked to this unit.

So my bet is that it is either of these two parts, and at roughly $300 each, I'm not about to play lets see if this works, I suck at 50/50 guessing, I always get the wrong one. I checked my repair orders and the fuel pump was replaced a little over a year ago at 41K so I'm ruling that out. Only other part is the MAF and that is another high ticket item. Or an air leak in the intake tubing after the MAF. But since there is actual noise coming from the above two parts area.....however no ses light that would directly point me to these. I'm also wondering that if the previous light also had to deal with one of these two parts but maybe they were not all that bad yet??

I'll update this if they do the work and in hopes that this will help someone out with a similar problem. I just hate part swaping for no reason at all especially in this tight economy. I'm hoping that what ever gets changed finally cures the ses. I can't imagine that I would have to clean the MAF every 10-15K is the correct solution especially since you never had to do it before 50K.

If anyone else has had this problem before and has gotten it fixed then please do tell.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:21 AM   #2
mkodama
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I like to start with easy and free thing first. In this case, it would be taking out the intake boot and maybe the idle control valve. I would inspect the intake boot for any deep cracks or tears, and would spray some MAF cleaner through the IAC valve and make sure it rotates freely.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:51 AM   #3
Phoenix330ci
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Maybe I'll get up in a few hours and pull the boot first and look for a crack. Or maybe I'll wait until Monday to bring it in and try your suggestion first on Saturday morning.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:44 AM   #4
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Ok here is the answer (I hope) to my problem, maybe it will someday help someone out.

As stated above I thought it was either the Adjuster Unit (DISA) or the ICV. Well I went ahead and tried to remove the DISA and it would not come out of the manifold. It was stuck in there. I pullled and pulled and it just would not come out. From what I could see once I worked it out a little was that the flapper door was broken from the plastic pin and therefore it was sideways and would not come out the hole in the manifold where it should slid right out. The only way to get it out was with a little brute force and seeing that the unit was already broken I didn't care if I broke it a little more. Once out I can see that the little flapper had one of its corners rubbed (actually worn down) because the plastic centering pin was snapped so the door ended up wearing itself funny. (I really should take a picture of it) Anyway, the plastic pin piece was not anywhere to be found within the manifold. I found the metal end pin, the door, the frame but no plastic piece. Only thing that meant was that it was inside of the manifold.

Well not knowing if it was safe enough to leave the plastic piece in there or if it would get sucked down into one of the cylinders and f' it up, I decide to not take a chance and to remove the manifold. For those that have never done this, yes it takes some patience and a few hours of work to get it off, however it seemed to take me less time to get it back together. I'll spare you all the details of removing the manifold. I did however find the the plastic part and it fell out with a little shaking of the manifold.

Anyways, since I had the manifold off I also decided to change the CCV being that it is located directly under the manifold. My car didn't need it done, however I also have 72K and heard they go between 70 and 100k. So a little preventive maintence because I didn't want to have to tear this down again. (cost for all the hoses and the CCV was like $150) And yes the hoses did seem to be on the verge of being brittle, especially the one on top of the manifold with the insulation, totally dried out and the insulation cracked like breaking a twig. (the insulation is supposed to be foam)

Also while I had the thing apart, I did change the lower intake boot. I inspected mine and it appeared to be in excellent condition, rubber still seemed flexible, no cracks or breaks. But for only $14 I decided to do it because it was cheap insurance to not have to chase this down at a later date.

Other things I did since it was all apart, cleaned the MAF, cleaned the throttle body (suprisingly, it was really clean, just a slight build up of carbon on the back side of the blade.), cleaned the ICV which that was also very clean, very light deposit, inspected injectors which looked good to me, and cleaned out the manifold at least in the areas that I could reach and see, there was some build up in there.

Put it all back together, cleared the codes and the car runs like a champ. To me it seems like the car has gotten more power back, the throttle response is 100% better, the car seems to have more take off power, and a little bit of a snap to the neck when you hit the throttle.

If anyone decides to do something like this you will need a couple of things like, manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket and the oil dipstick gasket (at the bottom) - all of mine looked good however, I wasn't chancing anything to failure, very cheap insurance again.
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Old 08-20-2009, 05:14 PM   #5
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Wow, impressive work! Glad to hear everything worked out and you fixed your problems and then some.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:55 AM   #6
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I so need to do this, having same indications that you had....
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:00 PM   #7
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Chirping noise only when in Drive mode

I just noticed a few weeks ago the "chirping" noise. Sounds like summer night peepers around a pond. The noise goes away when I accelerate/drive. The noise goes away when put in Park, too. When I am stopped at a light, and my steptronic is in D, I hear the chirping noise. I have 147,00 miles. Knock on the wood. So, it must be an idler pulley?
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:50 PM   #8
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very helpful!!!!!!!!!!! to me i will do this during this week. because i got same code 2883. i change already adjuster unit because was broken clean throtle, icv, all tubing in perfect condition. but somethimes my car is shut down! i dont know why..? only code what i have is 2883. so im thinking i gotta go same way.. and change icv too because is making noise when im shaking this.

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Old 11-28-2009, 01:36 AM   #9
Phoenix330ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolekman View Post
very helpful!!!!!!!!!!! to me i will do this during this week. because i got same code 2883. i change already adjuster unit because was broken clean throtle, icv, all tubing in perfect condition. but somethimes my car is shut down! i dont know why..? only code what i have is 2883. so im thinking i gotta go same way.. and change icv too because is making noise when im shaking this.
Once you remove most of the parts on the side, like the air box and tubing, it only takes a few more minutes to get to those last two parts. When you pull out the DISA you can check the plastic blade for damage. The icv will make noise when you shake it. There is a metal "flap" for a better term, in there that is hooked to a light spring. You can actually move it with your finger to clean both sides. If it doesn't move or binds then you have a problem with that part. On mine I just sprayed it down with some MAF cleaner and it looked just like new.

Currently I have a friends car, 2004 325 throwing the same codes as mine did and he is around 50,000. So far I don't hear the chirping sound as mine did but neither did I before it finally broke. I told him what I did and he was going to follow my steps with first cleaning the MAF. However I think we will be tearing it down further because I don't think that will solve the problem. Seems very much like mine. Once I get my hand on it I going in for the DISA and checking that first, so stay tuned and I'll update this once I get into his car.
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