Best E46 for track events

Originally Posted by FTWeisse

Why the facepalm? I don't get it...

That wasn't directed at you. Sorry, I can see how it would be perceived as that. I'm just saying that if were talking about stock e46's, this question is a no brainer.

Originally Posted by mrshelley

7. Buy a new set of rotors and a set of PFC 01 pads (use this only for the track)

For each track event, I'd change out the brakes (rotors and pads) with the track ones and stick on the track tires.

I'm curious why it is necessary to swap out the rotors in addition to the pads. I just use my stock pads on the street and my PFC-01 pads on the track but with the same rotors.

Will I get better performance with a separate set of rotors? Do you think a separate set of rotors is necessary for both the front and rear?

I guess I shouldn't have sold my 330i! Having owned the 330 in the past, I'm a little reluctant buying the same thing again and I was hoping that the M3 would provide greater benefits. Also, if I were to buy the M3, would I be better off with an smg or manual?

Also, are there years to avoid for a 330 or M3?

With regards to the e36 M3s, I can never see myself paying that much for a car that old. I would rather buy a new car than over pay for an old car when compared to the original MSRP/depreciation/age. But I guess "over pay" is a relative term that depends on demand vs supply.

If you get a 330 then try to go with 2002+ but the newer the better (2005/2006 are basically the same though)

Originally Posted by SpeedDemon

I'm curious why it is necessary to swap out the rotors in addition to the pads. I just use my stock pads on the street and my PFC-01 pads on the track but with the same rotors.

Will I get better performance with a separate set of rotors? Do you think a separate set of rotors is necessary for both the front and rear?

SpeedD, the reason for swapping out rotors is because your street pads have impregnated the rotors with there "material". If you ran your race pads on virgin rotors or rotors that have only seen that material, your stopping power will increase. In essence, your PFC-01 will be
more effective.

Originally Posted by Rob43

When beating on an E36, going off track (hard) or missing a shift, hopefully no damage, the ECU Never gets upset & goes into limp mode. The E46 has more difficulty with this, there's a much greater chance that the ECU will go into limp mode, wrecking that session or race for you.

I'm only a single data point, but I've never had this issue or heard of it.

Originally Posted by Rob43

SpeedD, the reason for swapping out rotors is because your street pads have impregnated the rotors with there "material".

Also you can get rotors dirt cheap($55 fronts and $30 rears), I've got $35 front rotors on my car now.

If you put your money in the right places, stay on top of preventative maintenance, and do a thorough pre-track inspection 330's can be incredibly reliable. I can't remember missing a session or race in the past 5ish years.

I take my car to the track...its the best! I always have a great time.

+1 for having a extra set of pads and rotors for the track only. I felt more stopping power than just swapping pads.

Originally Posted by vaio76109

Also you can get rotors dirt cheap($55 fronts and $30 rears), I've got $35 front rotors on my car now.

I just bought some Meyle rotors on BMA Auto Parts site and it came out to about $140 after shipping for 4 new rotors. I'm looking forward to giving this a try.

Swapping rotors isn't hard I once you already have the caliper off; I probably should have been doing this all last season

Car: sedan I personally feel is better balanced than a coupe + lighter.
330i ZHP excellent base car, has awesome steering ratio = great for autoX
Or add to 330 schrick cams, intake & exhaust (for better lower RPM grunt)

Suspension
255/35 18 rubber at 4 corners
dampers + springs (Koni = adj dampering - research spring rates for your needs)
Sway bars adj for track (I like Hotchkis they're the thickest)
Adj sway bar links front/Rear for aligning
LSD (limited slip w/ 3.38 or higher for better control & gearing for autox)

oh and those concerned with brakes, add fluid and stainless steel lines, stock is good... but you will emit clouds of brake dust and possibly need new pads by the end of a session...

- you will destroy an M3 on the track w/ the setup above... i mean destroyyyy... as long as the M3 doesn't have to many straights to kick in all 333hp.... Either way, you will be one worthy contender to any subaru sti, evo, etccc

Good luck!

FWIW, I just got my four $30 rotors from BMA Auto Parts ($140 after shipping) and they look great. I'm looking forward to giving these things a try on track. As far as I can tell, they look identical to the extra set of Zimmerman rotors that I have sitting in my closet; the vanes look just slightly rougher but that shouldn't be an issue. If these work out then this is just another awesome reason for how cost effective it can be running a 330 on track.

Originally Posted by wallie330i

I guess I shouldn't have sold my 330i! Having owned the 330 in the past, I'm a little reluctant buying the same thing again and I was hoping that the M3 would provide greater benefits. Also, if I were to buy the M3, would I be better off with an smg or manual?

I would say smg because it will give you alot less to think about when you start tracking. you will be able to focus more on your line and braking points rather than worrying about heel toeing or when to downshift.

plus when you eventually turn it into a full track car the smg will be faster

Do the harmonic related issues seem to be limited only to the m54b30? Are the m52tu and m54b25 less prone to oil pump and squirter failure when used for heavy track use? Trying to decide what route to go with on my e46 sedan build...TIA!

Have you ever considered not getting a BMW for a track car?

Originally Posted by Rich V

Do the harmonic related issues seem to be limited only to the m54b30? Are the m52tu and m54b25 less prone to oil pump and squirter failure when used for heavy track use? Trying to decide what route to go with on my e46 sedan build...TIA!

To avoid double posting, this thread seems like a good place to go for this:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=754668

From what I've read it looks like M54B30 + hardened oil pump + stock flywheel + stock redline = A-OK even on pure track cars.